Also, what tests can I do to make sure the r/r is good? Just the resistance tests? Are there any more conclusive tests that I could do to make sure I don't buy a non-working one?
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hjacobmiller
Originally posted by gearhead13 View Post
Also, what tests can I do to make sure the r/r is good? Just the resistance tests? Are there any more conclusive tests that I could do to make sure I don't buy a non-working one?
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gearhead13
Originally posted by hjacobmiller View PostThere is a place near by that is sort of a salvage yard for bikes and I called them asking about a r/r. He said he doesn't have any GS300s but does have several Suzukis from the 80's that I may be able to grab a good one off of for around $45. Are there any specific Suzuki models that I should be looking for that would have compatible r/rs? There are also a lot of other bikes there so I am thinking about bringing the list from this thread to see if he has any of those models.
Also, what tests can I do to make sure the r/r is good? Just the resistance tests? Are there any more conclusive tests that I could do to make sure I don't buy a non-working one?
When I was looking for an R&R I contacted the local bike salvage place and was told he charges 1/2 of retail for used stuff Friggin ROCKS in his head. Should have told him where to shove his R&R
Haven't been back since.
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hjacobmiller
Originally posted by gearhead13 View PostWell, first make sure he will take it back if it doesn't work. If he doesn't know how to check them himself then I would kinda wonder. Have you read the stator papers and have you been to Basscliffs site for how-tos? There are R&R tests there as well.
When I was looking for an R&R I contacted the local bike salvage place and was told he charges 1/2 of retail for used stuff Friggin ROCKS in his head. Should have told him where to shove his R&R
Haven't been back since.
Does anyone have a working one they want to sell me?
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old_skool
Originally posted by gearhead13 View Posthe charges 1/2 of retail for used stuff Friggin ROCKS in his head. Should have told him where to shove his R&R
Haven't been back since.
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Normk
It is generally more reliable to use a test light and 12 volt source to check rectifier diodes. Unless you have a meter which has a diode test function, checking can be hit and miss. Often the meter's applied voltage is lower than the forward bias voltage of the diode so will indicate an open circuit.
I always prefer to test components under actual operating conditions because any other test method assumes a direct relationship which may not be so.
As for the bike wrecker pricing at 1/2 the new price...that's the industry standard. Auto wreckers, bike wreckers, etc. all use this pricing.
The wrecker operator will not necessarily understand how to test all of the bike's components as he will have the knowledge/skill limitations which we all share. While most will attempt to help, it is incombent on the buyer to know what they need and to be able to assess condition.
The wrecker may appreciate a copy of the list in order to assist in helping others. I would in his circumstances.
"Load type" VRR units have two sections: rectifier & regulator.
These are generally tested separately and I think this is dealt with in the Stator Papers link. Don't recall for sure as don't need to use these kinds of references but have seen at least one very good appreciation of the subject on line and think it was this one.
You will need to test diode operation by checking forward and reverse diode action for each diode. As stated earlier a test light is a more reliable indicator than is a multi meter.
The voltage regulator is a more involved test which requires applying a variable voltage to the rectifier stage and monitoring the effect on the output. A temporary test rig can be made using a 12 volt and 6 volt battery although a variable voltage source is a more reliable test base.
It is difficult to beat the use of a known good alternator connected to a known good battery for testing as nothing beats actual conditions.
If you are close to one of the electrical types on this group, maybe you can have someone go with to help testing. Most of the wreckers I've dealt with are eager to learn if one approaches them with respect so you may make some brownie points by showing someone who does not know how to test.
HIH
Norm
Originally posted by hjacobmiller View PostThere is a place near by that is sort of a salvage yard for bikes and I called them asking about a r/r. He said he doesn't have any GS300s but does have several Suzukis from the 80's that I may be able to grab a good one off of for around $45. Are there any specific Suzuki models that I should be looking for that would have compatible r/rs? There are also a lot of other bikes there so I am thinking about bringing the list from this thread to see if he has any of those models.
Also, what tests can I do to make sure the r/r is good? Just the resistance tests? Are there any more conclusive tests that I could do to make sure I don't buy a non-working one?
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Originally posted by Normk View Post
As for the bike wrecker pricing at 1/2 the new price...that's the industry standard. Auto wreckers, bike wreckers, etc. all use this pricing.
Rusty old junk shouldn't be half the new price, ever.
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TooManyToys
Originally posted by tkent02 View Post.......Rusty old junk shouldn't be half the new price, ever.
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DannyMotor
Question/concern.
Page 1. Honda CB250RS, Shindengen SH232-12
Says "regulator" only.
I have one IN MY HAND that says "regulator/rectifier" on it 12V... 6 wire. This one came off a CM400T, however... but it has the same serial number "SH232-12 9.8 12v"
What gives?
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old_skool
Originally posted by DannyMotor View PostQuestion/concern.
Page 1. Honda CB250RS, Shindengen SH232-12
Says "regulator" only.
I have one IN MY HAND that says "regulator/rectifier" on it 12V... 6 wire. This one came off a CM400T, however... but it has the same serial number "SH232-12 9.8 12v"
What gives?
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DannyMotor
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Matchless
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elevatorman71
Ok I bought an83 gs750es and it didn't come with a r/r. What you recomend with the Honda r/r's?
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Originally posted by elevatorman71 View PostOk I bought an83 gs750es and it didn't come with a r/r. What you recomend with the Honda r/r's?1981 gs650L
"We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin
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elevatorman71
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