Rectifier/Regulator replacement list

[ruler7171]

have you guys seen any videos or documents with pics showing this being done.?

[eil]

Some buy the wiring harness but all I did was crimp some regular spade connectors to my wires and shove 'em onto the R/R. You can then fill the connector area with silicone for a weather-tight seal or live on the wild side and leave it open.

[bwanna]

I'd appreciate some feedback on these two regulators. My bike is an '82 Suzuki GS450T and I'm interested in changing the current shunt R/R to a series regulator.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Compufire-32A-Voltage-Regulator-Black-Finned-55120-32-Amp-V-Reg-Bt-89-99-DS3130-/331135571008?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d1937d440&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/32-Amp-Voltage-Regulator-Harley-Davidson-1989-99-Big-Twin-Compu-fire-55120-/171069447450?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d4889d1a&vxp=mtr

Would these work on my bike electronically? ... meaning, I'm more than happy to relocate the mounting location if it can't fit under the side cover.

[Matchless]

I'd appreciate some feedback on these two regulators. My bike is an '82 Suzuki GS450T and I'm interested in changing the current shunt R/R to a series regulator.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Compufire-32A-Voltage-Regulator-Black-Finned-55120-32-Amp-V-Reg-Bt-89-99-DS3130-/331135571008?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d1937d440&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/32-Amp-Voltage-Regulator-Harley-Davidson-1989-99-Big-Twin-Compu-fire-55120-/171069447450?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d4889d1a&vxp=mtr

Would these work on my bike electronically? ... meaning, I'm more than happy to relocate the mounting location if it can't fit under the side cover.

If those have 2 wires to the stator, as it seems in the picture, your bike will only run on two cylinders! Jokes aside, your bike has a 3 phase stator and needs a 3 phase regulator.
Use the search facility on this forum and you will find threads advising you to buy a series regulator if you want to spend more, a Mosfet regulator if you want to spend slightly less and a standard SCR regulator if you want to save a bit. Some SCR regulators are still running strong after many years.

[bwanna]

If those have 2 wires to the stator, as it seems in the picture, your bike will only run on two cylinders! Jokes aside, your bike has a 3 phase stator and needs a 3 phase regulator.
Use the search facility on this forum and you will find threads advising you to buy a series regulator if you want to spend more, a Mosfet regulator if you want to spend slightly less and a standard SCR regulator if you want to save a bit. Some SCR regulators are still running strong after many years.

Thanks for the advice. My preference would be for the Mosfet over the SCR due to the concern that SCRs fail in a closed circuit state. (From what I've read)

Is it safe to say that ANY regulator that supports a 3 phase stator would work?

[posplayr]

Thanks for the advice. My preference would be for the Mosfet over the SCR due to the concern that SCRs fail in a closed circuit state. (From what I've read)

Is it safe to say that ANY regulator that supports a 3 phase stator would work?

Thereare really few compelling reasons in this GS day of electrical charging to buy anything other than a SERIES R/R. The SH-775 is a very affordable Series R/R and can be purchased cheaper than most conventional SHUNT regulators. They are typically $70 new from Polaris dealers.

See this link for a summary.

GS Stator

To Andre's point about some SHUNT regulators having been working for years, that is correct but it is generally limited to the smaller bikes that don't have the same heat problems as the bigger bikes. For anything at 1000 cc and above it is a must. 750 cc is borderline I have little experience on bikes below that but there are many reports of no issues.

It has to do with heat dissipation and the SERIES R/R just doesn't create the same heat in the stator as the SHUNT R/R will. Yes I said stator heat . Also if you plan on going to LED lights and reducing your electrical loads you will further stress the R/R.

Also the dominate failure mode (i.e. about 10:1) for MOSFETS is to fail CLOSED. For the SCR to fail OPEN.

[bwanna]

There is really few compelling reasons in this GS day of electrical charging to buy anything other than a SERIES R/R. The SH-775 is a very affordable Series R/R and can be purchased cheaper than most conventional SHUNT regulators. They are typically $70 new from Polaris dealers.

See this link for a summary.

GS Stator

To Andre's point about some SHUNT regulators having been working for years, that is correct but it is generally limited to the smaller bikes that don't have the same heat problems as the bigger bikes. For anything at 1000 cc and above it is a must. 750 cc is borderline I have little experience on bikes below that but there are many reports of no issues.

It has to do with heat dissipation and the SERIES R/R just doesn't create the same heat in the stator as the SHUNT R/R will. Yes I said stator heat . Also if you plan on going to LED lights and reducing your electrical loads you will further stress the R/R.

Also the dominate failure mode (i.e. about 10:1) for MOSFETS is to fail CLOSED. For the SCR to fail OPEN.

As always, your explanations are written so well! Thanks. would you happen to have the Polaris Part# for the Sh-775. The website requires a model number before it will list parts... and I don't know polaris models.

[posplayr]

As always, your explanations are written so well! Thanks. would you happen to have the Polaris Part# for the Sh-775. The website requires a model number before it will list parts... and I don't know polaris models.

I have summarized most of the relevant ordering information in that link.

[bwanna]

I have summarized most of the relevant ordering information in that link.

Thanks. Feel a little foolish for asking. Tried to find that and somehow missed it.

Cheers

[Hilvhendo]

Here is the Polaris part number 4012941

[GodSilla650]

I just picked up a 1982GS650L locally from a kid that said the stator went bad and he replaced it (had the old part to show me) but it still wouldn't start. He didn't say anything about replacing the R/R. When I hook up a charger to it it will crank somewhat slowly for a few seconds and then just die. I took the battery out of the circuit and replaced it with a jumper pack and same thing crank slowly and die. After a quick look at the wiring diagram it looks like all power runs through the R/R from the battery before going to the rest of the bike, so I think I might be on the right track. I am suspecting a bad R/R considering how commonly they go bad, but does anyone know first hand if it would cause a no start condition? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!

After reading the stator papers I was pretty much set on getting an Electrex R/R, but now I see there is a whole world of R/Rs out there I never even knew existed. I am all about saving money, but is that the main motivation behind going with one of the other R/Rs on this thread or are they actually of superior quality to the Electrex? Thanks again

[GodSilla650]

Heatsink

I was thinking about putting a monster heat sink off of a computer processor on the back of the new R/R for added cooling, possibly with the fan wired up. Has anyone done this or is it just over kill? I have one laying around and it runs off of 12V.

[tom203]

A bad R/R will not cause the no start/slow crank stuff- with a decent battery and/or jumppack , bike should crank smartly.
As made in Japan, the power runs from battery thru main fuse and up to key switch where it waits for you to turn it on- the R/R could be in a great lake and bike will still fire up! With no charging system , bike will keep going about 45 minutes or so.

You got some reading to do- don't buy a R/R unless it's a series unit like a compufire or SH-775.
Since PO fiddled with stator, best to get in there and have a look at his handiwork. Slow cranking (with good battery) probably means poor connections, tired starter motor, but could be something else.
You might want to move this post to electrical forum.

[tom203]

I was thinking about putting a monster heat sink off of a computer processor on the back of the new R/R for added cooling, possibly with the fan wired up. Has anyone done this or is it just over kill? I have one laying around and it runs off of 12V.

You could pack the R/R in ice if you wanted to, but it ain't necessary. For $70, the SH-775 will do the job - mine barely gets warm

[GodSilla650]

Thanks Tom, I read the stator papers but I didn't mike it through all 45 pages on this thread. I just picked up the bike yesterday and I am storing it at a friends house so I really haven't had time to mess with it. I plan on going out there today after work and messing around with it. I do suspect there might be some bad connections because the negative battery lead has been replaced with something that looks like an aftermarket battery cable for an automotive application.

I actually already have the exact same bike already I just picked this one up because it was the right price, had a lot of new parts, and is in better condition. The bike I have now is running so I was going to play the parts swapping game until I got this one running. I probably should pick up a new battery, because I don't really know the condition of either of the batteries. The jump pack wasn't fully charged, however it will start a car on a very low charge so I was surprised that it wouldn't crank over the bike very well. I will have to check all the connections, no matter how good a battery if the connections are bad the bike wont start.