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Originally posted by GodSilla650 View PostI just picked up a 1982GS650L locally from a kid that said the stator went bad and he replaced it (had the old part to show me) but it still wouldn't start. He didn't say anything about replacing the R/R. When I hook up a charger to it it will crank somewhat slowly for a few seconds and then just die. I took the battery out of the circuit and replaced it with a jumper pack and same thing crank slowly and die. After a quick look at the wiring diagram it looks like all power runs through the R/R from the battery before going to the rest of the bike, so I think I might be on the right track. I am suspecting a bad R/R considering how commonly they go bad, but does anyone know first hand if it would cause a no start condition? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!
After reading the stator papers I was pretty much set on getting an Electrex R/R, but now I see there is a whole world of R/Rs out there I never even knew existed. I am all about saving money, but is that the main motivation behind going with one of the other R/Rs on this thread or are they actually of superior quality to the Electrex? Thanks again
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bwanna
The procedures in Posplayer's signature are very good and easy to accomplish. Will quickly tell you the status of the Stator and R/R
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Yes, the stator papers can be tough to get thru, but posplayr keeps trying to make them simpler. On your currently running bike, try this quick test (less than 5 minutes, honest!)- it offers clues to your charging health
Edit; I have to type faster1981 gs650L
"We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin
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Really really need to get Frank or whom ever to pull those old GS Stator papers and replace them with Posplayr's write up.sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
2015 CAN AM RTS
Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.
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GodSilla650
Thanks guys, I will do the test procedure as soon as I can. I did take a peak at the bike and it looks like the previous owner must have lost the bolts for the R/R and just ziptied it on there. From the wiring diagram I believe it is case ground, so that is probably causing some kind of problems. I have not had a chance to see how all the wiring connections are yet though. I did fill my battery up with distilled water and did a 2amp charge for about 10 hours it is now consistently holding 12.36 volts. I think that sill might be a little low so I may try to charge it for a while longer. I have another battery charging now so we will see which one is better.
While charging I was concerned because the battery was bubbling, but from what I read this is normal as long as it doesn't really hot. Is this correct and if so is warm ok?
thanks again
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Originally posted by GodSilla650 View PostThanks guys, I will do the test procedure as soon as I can. I did take a peak at the bike and it looks like the previous owner must have lost the bolts for the R/R and just ziptied it on there. From the wiring diagram I believe it is case ground, so that is probably causing some kind of problems. I have not had a chance to see how all the wiring connections are yet though. I did fill my battery up with distilled water and did a 2amp charge for about 10 hours it is now consistently holding 12.36 volts. I think that sill might be a little low so I may try to charge it for a while longer. I have another battery charging now so we will see which one is better.
While charging I was concerned because the battery was bubbling, but from what I read this is normal as long as it doesn't really hot. Is this correct and if so is warm ok?
thanks again
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Originally posted by posplayr View PostNot all R/R's are case ground and even if they are they should have a negative wire that goes to a common ground. The bigger issue is heat dissipation. A loose contact to the mounting plate is a lost opportunity to transfer heat to it for reducing the R/R temperature.
The 550ES has it's R/R tucked under the seat, behind the battery. I don't see how it would get any airflow at all, except through a chimneying effect.
As for Godsilla's question, the battery bubbling. I don't know if it is bad or not. Some of my batteries bubble when charging, others don't. The ones that do, don't seem to be as strong as the others.'83 GS650G
'83 GS550es (didn't like the colours in the 80's, but they've grown on me)
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jbthomp
Small bubbles are normal like the fizz on a soda. Lead acid batteries produce some hydrogen and oxygen when they are charging, that is the bubbling you are seeing. If it starts bubbling like boiling water or the case starts to expand that means it's way overcharged and could explode. Make sure you are not trying to charge it too fast either. A trickle charger works fine. If you charge it too fast too many times you can reduce the life of the battery.
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How can you tell if a reg/rec is a field regulating type, or a shunt type? What does "FET" mean in the list on the first page?
This thread started out as something great and helpful, but trying to read through it, has gotten way too complicated and technical! And, as someone who has a fair amount of electrical background, I gotta say, I got lost!1979 GS550, 2003 R6, 1998 XR400 Dual Sport, 2004 V-Star.........
Decisions, decisions, what to ride, today.
sigpic
My GS550 Build
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Field effect transistor- sounds impressive but MOSFET ( metal oxide semiconductor FET) sounds even better! Ignore the hype read this about R/R stuff
edit: field regulation is what most cars use- some bikes use it but is less common as it's more complicated requiring brushes feeding a revolving rotor.Last edited by tom203; 07-28-2014, 08:27 AM.1981 gs650L
"We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin
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