Rectifier/Regulator replacement list

[Matchless]

I just tried to buy a FH-011AA off ebay (that model # was clearly in the title) but received a SH650A-12 instead. Any chance that will work?

It has five unmarked leads/wires out.

Yes it should work well. Its from a Yamaha and the 3 white wires go to the alternator. Maybe this will help:

[old_skool]

I just tried to buy a FH-011AA off ebay (that model # was clearly in the title) but received a SH650A-12 instead. Any chance that will work?

It has five unmarked leads/wires out.

It wil work, but you bid on an equivalent of a $80 used RR typically on ebay as thats a quality 50 amp RR, and bought a $25-$35 RR, been a while since I looked up the specs on that one, I believe a 20amp, it will work fine as it exceeds oem of 18amps, but not what you paid for.

[old_skool]

it may work indeed, but why was it not the one you won? I'd be mad.

+1!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[spacepirates]

I emailed the seller, he said that he would send the correct one and I'll send him back this one. I am a little leery of this guy though, what with ebay being ebay and all, but we'll see. I've still got jetting issues (and muffler issues! oh, and I need a new oil drain pan as that drain screw is stripped out) so I can keep working while I wait.

I had previously bought one off a kawasaki 700 atv, but it failed the diode test. ....of course, I didn't think to test it BEFORE i put it on

[old_skool]

I emailed the seller, he said that he would send the correct one and I'll send him back this one. I am a little leery of this guy though, what with ebay being ebay and all, but we'll see. I've still got jetting issues (and muffler issues! oh, and I need a new oil drain pan as that drain screw is stripped out) so I can keep working while I wait.

I had previously bought one off a kawasaki 700 atv, but it failed the diode test. ....of course, I didn't think to test it BEFORE i put it on

I've been an Ebay seller....and buyer since 2002, and I can count the bad experiences in the last 10 years on one hand, give the guy a chance to make it right, he may be a good seller. And, I'm sure you'll like the other RR much better, not only will it handle the charging duties better, especially if you add any amount of accessories later, it will dissipate the heat better as well, and that translates into longer life and less worries. Be sure to wire it right, any questions on that, drop me a pm when you get it, there's also plenty of tutorials, but sometimes it's just nice to talk to someone.

[spacepirates]

I've been an Ebay seller....and buyer since 2002, and I can count the bad experiences in the last 10 years on one hand, give the guy a chance to make it right, he may be a good seller. And, I'm sure you'll like the other RR much better, not only will it handle the charging duties better, especially if you add any amount of accessories later, it will dissipate the heat better as well, and that translates into longer life and less worries. Be sure to wire it right, any questions on that, drop me a pm when you get it, there's also plenty of tutorials, but sometimes it's just nice to talk to someone.

This is the first "bad" experience I've personally had in the history of me being on ebay. I'm not going to let it ruin the site, orders get mixed up all the time from big-name places too.

I hope this replacement works well, as I said before I have two other R/R's on there (including stock) and neither worked. According to the stator papers' test, the stator is good so I don't know what else would cause an R/R to blow (if it is me causing it and not just me buying faulty parts). I think the stator papers also failed me on "good r/r connection to battery positive" but my r/r was bad and the papers check the wiring before the r/r so I don't know. I also had the r/r wired directly to battery positive with a 20amp fuse if that matters.

[spacepirates]

Ok, I want to discuss R/R's a little bit and the theory behind them and then what our bikes need.

At first glance, I thought *all* R/R's would be adequate. Get three-phase AC in, output 14v (or so) to the battery. Well, that isn't the case. It looks like there are single-phase R/R's and 6v R/R's (this is stated on the first page).

BUT! there will always be extreme cases like these, so we can't say "all" but perhaps "most?"

In *most* modern bikes, you'll have three-phase AC power to an R/R that charges a 12v battery. My next question was, why do we give some the thumbs up and others we don't? Current. Our bikes need an R/R that can support enough current. Old_skool mentions that the OEM R/R is 18amp, so it looks like we can boil down our R/R requirements to these three points:
1) Three-phase AC power (it has three input wires for a stator)
2) 12v DC output to battery
3) Rated to handle 18+ amps (I'd guess most modern bikes with a similar amount of electronics would meet this)

Please correct me if I am grossly overlooking something. Checking the approved R/R lists (and there are multiple, this one here and the one through basscliff's site) makes it seems like there are only a handful that will work, but I can't see why a lot of others wouldn't work (bolt-on replacement/spacing aside).

Thoughts? Should I be taking these "approved R/R" lists more of as "known tested/good R/Rs" rather than "these are the only R/Rs that will work?"

[old_skool]

Ok, I want to discuss R/R's a little bit and the theory behind them and then what our bikes need.

At first glance, I thought *all* R/R's would be adequate. Get three-phase AC in, output 14v (or so) to the battery. Well, that isn't the case. It looks like there are single-phase R/R's and 6v R/R's (this is stated on the first page).

BUT! there will always be extreme cases like these, so we can't say "all" but perhaps "most?"

In *most* modern bikes, you'll have three-phase AC power to an R/R that charges a 12v battery. My next question was, why do we give some the thumbs up and others we don't? Current. Our bikes need an R/R that can support enough current. Old_skool mentions that the OEM R/R is 18amp, so it looks like we can boil down our R/R requirements to these three points:
1) Three-phase AC power (it has three input wires for a stator)
2) 12v DC output to battery
3) Rated to handle 18+ amps (I'd guess most modern bikes with a similar amount of electronics would meet this)

Please correct me if I am grossly overlooking something. Checking the approved R/R lists (and there are multiple, this one here and the one through basscliff site) makes it seems like there are only a handful that will work, but I can't see why a lot of others wouldn't work (bolt-on replacement/spacing aside).

Thoughts? Should I be taking these "approved R/R" lists more of as "known tested/good R/Rs" rather than "these are the only R/Rs that will work?"

One of the things you want to look for in a RR, is the ability to dissipate heat, the biggest failure of RR's, caused by resistance in wires too small to carry the current, poor quality and corroded connections, to high a draw for the rated system(added accessories), most modern bikes have cured this, but some have gone above and beyond, some people here have stated you don't need as high a rated RR that I use, but think of resistance like a water pipe, the larger the pipe, the less resistance, and the larger the heat sink, the better heat dissipation you have. And you need to examine the specs on any newer RR's, as some are actually not as good as others, I've run across some that were actually rated lower than ours, in the 16amp area. And remember, just because it was good enough 30 years ago, that doesn't mean they wouldn't have improved on it had they had the technology and advancements and experiences, developed in today's fields. So just because they thought an 18 amp was good enough, if they had to re-think that today, they may have decided a higher one was in order.

[5t341th]

got a question about my newtome RR.
its a SH232 6 wire unit. from my readings, the green wire is ground and black wire is "sense" wire. how important is it to attach the sense wire to switched power?
I did a test run of the RR and i did not wire the sense wire yet. when idling, it reads 13.5v
when reving higher than idle, the volts jump up to 15-16v @ around 4k rpm. headlight and parking light gets brighter considerably
i believe this is a bad thing right?
is it because my sense wire is not wired up yet? or is it a bad RR?

ps. my stator is brand new

[Normk]

Connect the sense wire. Without it, there is no sense to the question.

got a question about my newtome RR.
its a SH232 6 wire unit. from my readings, the green wire is ground and black wire is "sense" wire. how important is it to attach the sense wire to switched power?
I did a test run of the RR and i did not wire the sense wire yet. when idling, it reads 13.5v
when reving higher than idle, the volts jump up to 15-16v @ around 4k rpm. headlight and parking light gets brighter considerably
i believe this is a bad thing right?
is it because my sense wire is not wired up yet? or is it a bad RR?

ps. my stator is brand new

[old_skool]

got a question about my newtome RR.
its a SH232 6 wire unit. from my readings, the green wire is ground and black wire is "sense" wire. how important is it to attach the sense wire to switched power?
I did a test run of the RR and i did not wire the sense wire yet. when idling, it reads 13.5v
when reving higher than idle, the volts jump up to 15-16v @ around 4k rpm. headlight and parking light gets brighter considerably
i believe this is a bad thing right?
is it because my sense wire is not wired up yet? or is it a bad RR?

ps. my stator is brand new

Several here have asked and had the same problem, yes, hook it up, best place is under the seat to the BROWN wire going back to the tail light(not the brake light wire) The SH-232 is an 18amp equivalent to the oem.

[5t341th]

Several here have asked and had the same problem, yes, hook it up, best place is under the seat to the BROWN wire going back to the tail light(not the brake light wire) The SH-232 is an 18amp equivalent to the oem.

thanks. i tested it first by putting the sense to positive and it works. 14.5v while idling around 3k

[BikingBluenoser]

What about SH238-12 1.1?

My rectifier is dying a slow death and I've been looking for a replacement.
I have been looking around the forums for a couple hours now and the only reference to this r/r is in this thread. I cannot find the specs for it on-line either.
There is one for sale on ebay, but I am not sure if it is a suitable replacement.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Peter

[tom203]

I'm not familiar with that one. but how about this one for $10 plus shipping from Florida; there's always many to choose from

ebay item # 320952103640

[old_skool]

My rectifier is dying a slow death and I've been looking for a replacement.
I have been looking around the forums for a couple hours now and the only reference to this r/r is in this thread. I cannot find the specs for it on-line either.
There is one for sale on ebay, but I am not sure if it is a suitable replacement.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Peter

I beleve if memory serves, that yours is a 6 pin 20 amp, an equivalent would be this, and would work exactly as the oem would.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/88-Kawasaki-EX-500-Ninja-Good-Voltage-Regulator-Rectifier-SH530-12K-Fast-Ship-/300733901824?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4605232c00&vxp=mtr