Rectifier/Regulator replacement list

[Nessism]

Managed to get one of these FET units to fit on a GS1000 after slotting the screw holes a little. Tight fit, and the slotted holes are at the edge of the heat sink but it's all kosher. To seal the terminals, special electrical grade silicone was used - low acid and designed for sealing electrical parts, unlike more common silicone.

[motocycle shawn]

swap

i have been using honda goldwing regs for about 7 years now

[Charlie G]

I finally read through this thread. Timely as my rectifier went out. I found a place that sells new FH012aa inits, wired, with connectors. I thought I would share the link. http://roadstercycle.com/index.htm More money than I'd like to spend, but I can't find a used unit and I like things neat with connectors. Connectors available here as well. Thanks for all of your collective efforts.


Charlie G.

[Nessism]

I finally read through this thread. Timely as my rectifier went out. I found a place the sells new FH012aa inits, wired, with connectors. I thought I would share the link. http://roadstercycle.com/index.htm More mone than I'd like to spend, but I can't find a used unit and I like things neat with connectors. Connectors available here as well. Thanks for all of your collective efforts.


Charlie G.

That's a lot of cash. You can find the R/R's on ebay for about $50 - $60 shipped, and even less if you are not in a hurry (I paid about $25 shipped for mine).

[posplayr]

Managed to get one of these FET units to fit on a GS1000 after slotting the screw holes a little. Tight fit, and the slotted holes are at the edge of the heat sink but it's all kosher. To seal the terminals, special electrical grade silicone was used - low acid and designed for sealing electrical parts, unlike more common silicone.

I did another one on my ED and was able to slot the rear hole using a router bit in my drill press. A little trim on the fuse box and all was good

[sschering]

OK I'm finishing up my install and was left with one question..

I know most are running the R/R output to the starter solenoid post and that is what I plan to do.
What are you doing with the old Red wire lead that hooked to the stock rectifier output?

If I hook the R/R output to that wire all the power for battery charge goes back through the stock 15a fuse (as it did stock and we all know how well that worked)

If I hook to the solenoid the battery has a good charge path but all the bike's power goes through the 15a fuse..

I was thinking of running a 15a fused 10g lead from the start solenoid to the old R/R feed wire.. That way the load is spread across 2 wires instead of 1 that is known to overload and burn.

Or am I making things more complicated that necessary??


Ground line is simple.. right to the frame connection for the negative battery cable..

[salty_monk]

This was from a post I did awhile ago, Long story short I to have had good luck with my E-bay R/R. It's not the stock one but it works well. I just got my bike running and did a quick voltage check at the battery and was getting 13.4/7 volts and just slightly a bit more when reving the motor. Again this was a very quick check but I think I;m good to go. (Thats after I seal the tank, and replace the back tire)


I to had issues last year at the end of the season. I noticed one night (yes night) all of a sudden my Low beam blew out, I just put a new one in less than 3-4 months eariler ?? Starting checking my charging system (first checking the batt voltage at idle/2000 or so) and sure enough it was not regulating. Found this 1100 R/R on e-bay one night (LATE) and once it arrived I noticed the size difference ?? Whoops I havent tried it yet but the STATOR papers and electro sport checks will be being done this weekend.

The picture is the stock small rr for the 83 onwards 700 and 750e es.
I know two bikes both rr went the same overcharge route as that one.
82 850 has similar size rr but different connector.
Replacement likely to be 83 1100 or 1150

sschering - either way will work ok. You could run a large wire direct to battery or slenoid using a 30 amp fuse too

[Charlie G]

OK I'm finishing up my install and was left with one question..

I know most are running the R/R output to the starter solenoid post and that is what I plan to do.
What are you doing with the old Red wire lead that hooked to the stock rectifier output?

If I hook the R/R output to that wire all the power for battery charge goes back through the stock 15a fuse (as it did stock and we all know how well that worked)

If I hook to the solenoid the battery has a good charge path but all the bike's power goes through the 15a fuse..

I was thinking of running a 15a fused 10g lead from the start solenoid to the old R/R feed wire.. That way the load is spread across 2 wires instead of 1 that is known to overload and burn.

Or am I making things more complicated that necessary??


Ground line is simple.. right to the frame connection for the negative battery cable..

I hooked mine ( FH012aa) up directly to battery, with a fuse inline (15amp) per recomendation of another GSer. Posts 143&144 address the same issue. I really haven't finished testing mine yet as I've been sick. I hit 12.85v at 5k. I was hoping for better. I need to go through the rest of my connection and switches and put a meter on the stator to check out put.

Good luck!

Charlie G.

[salty_monk]

I hit around that voltage (12.8) with one dead leg on the stator with one of these FH012 Mosfet RR's if that helps you.

Mine goes back to battery through a 20 amp fuse & also ties into the original line feeding original fusebox.

Dan

[sschering]

Ground line is simple.. right to the frame connection for the negative battery cable..

Ha simple isn't always easy turns out getting to the end of the negative battery cable involves pulling the rack and air box

Had to be done since someone had cut and spliced the ground cable..

I hooked mine ( FH012aa) up directly to battery, with a fuse inline (15amp) per recomendation of another GSer. Posts 143&144 address the same issue.

I read through all the posts in this thread I must have been getting sleepy by the time I hit #144

I finished up the wiring last night. I clipped off all the old burned bullet connectors where it ties back into the main harness and crimped on some nice new ones..

At this point my output grounds to the battery neg cable, pos+ goes to the solenoid and I'll add a jumper to tie in the old Rectifier feed.

[baz666]

The Yamaha XJ750/XJ650 R/R cannot work on GS machines.
These Yamahas and perhaps other early XJ models use a field coil alternator while the GS series uses a permanent magnet alternator.
The XJ R/R has two extra wires, brown and green, which are used to regulate current. If an XJ R/R is hooked up to a GS bike, it will rectify but not regulate, resulting in over-charging and blown bulbs, cooked off batteries, etc.
I found this out the hard way.
thanks,
baz

[Matchless]

The Yamaha XJ750/XJ650 R/R cannot work on GS machines.
These Yamahas and perhaps other early XJ models use a field coil alternator while the GS series uses a permanent magnet alternator.
The XJ R/R has two extra wires, brown and green, which are used to regulate current. If an XJ R/R is hooked up to a GS bike, it will rectify but not regulate, resulting in over-charging and blown bulbs, cooked off batteries, etc.
I found this out the hard way.
thanks,
baz

Baz,
Can you confirm if the R/R is the SH233, then I can indicate it on the list.
Thanks

[baz666]

Hi Matchless,
The only markings I could find on the Yamaha XJ650/XJ750 R/R are the following:

4H7-50 0.K3
Toshiba S8534A

According to the Haynes manual:
14.5 + - 0.3V No-load regulated voltage
Max amperage 3A
Rectifier Capacity 15A

Alterator is Hitachi LD119-08
14V, 19A @ 5,000 rpm

Also,
Someone mentioned that modern Honda ATV R/R units would work with my 83 GS750ESD. I saw a new OEM 5-wire, 5-pin unit for a Honda 125-200cc ATVs on Ebay for $14.95.
Do you know if this will work on my bike?
thanks,
baz

[baz666]

And one more question.
I found an actual 5-wire Suzuki R/R on ebay for $18.
It's for the GN 125 to 250cc dirt bikes and ATVs.
Can I use this for my 83 GS750ESD?
thanks again,
baz

[Matchless]

Baz,
Any 3 phase 12V regulator for an alternator with fixed magnets (not field winding controlled) will work on your bike. The clinch is to select one that has a rating above at least 20A and that information is sometimes only found in the manual. There is no marking on the case indicating such.The higher the better and the cooler it will run.

If the donor vehicle has full headlights, electric starter, such as most larger bikes and ATV's have and the battery is large at least about 12 to 14 AH you should be OK as the battery and charging system is then probably designed for higher capacity. Forget about smaller bikes as they may have seperate power feeds to the headlights. Usually the size of the battery is a give away.

If the R/R is not on my list you may have to search for a service manual to download and see what it says about capacity.
Some have 7 wires of which two are of the same colour, meaning they are probably doubled up and you are looking at a 5 wire one. Those with 6 wires have a sensing wire for connecting to a switched negative as close to the battery as possible. The 7 wire units as you have discovered may be the field winding controlled type which Honda also used on the CB's.

As far as it is known the very late model bikes and ATV's have R/R's that are of a much higher capacity rating and should allow for a wider selection.

To come back to your question, older smaller bikes may have a low capacity rated R/R and you will find that they heat up quite quickly and may fail very soon. The rule of thumb has been the actual physical size of the heatsink, which used to be an indicator and may still be. Even the latest FET types still have large heatsinks, but then they could be rated at 35 to 50 Amps and at the moment most probably your best and best buy.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for your feedback, I have updated the list on page 1 onwards