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High Accuracy Degree Wheel
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doctorgonzo
God will you guys stop tempting me to degree my cams. I have to reinstall the whole top end of my motor anyway so I could get a degree wheel... NO!!!!!
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Originally posted by doctorgonzo View PostGod will you guys stop tempting me to degree my cams. I have to reinstall the whole top end of my motor anyway so I could get a degree wheel... NO!!!!!1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Originally posted by Suzuki_Don View PostYeah! But who's going to show me how to do it?1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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paco13
I think you guy's are all crazy. I decided to see what all the fuss is about and hooked up 2 temperature senders, one on each cam end, and there is no way they run close to 107/109 degrees. My bike still runs fine.
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jwhelan65
Originally posted by rapidray View PostLet me clue you 2 sixth graders in on something, even being an entire DEGREE off on where you are trying to set the cams will have LITTLE affect on the engine's power!!! Hello?!!! do you 2 GET it?!!! LOL!!!!
Measure with a micrometer, mark it with a piece of chalk, and cut it with a chainsaw! Ray.
A sawzall is my tool of choice
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kyscootertrash
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don_gibb6512
Originally posted by rapidray View PostI have a High School diploma & build faster engines than either one of you! Ray!
I've got a BS in Computer Science, I work in the EE dept. at OSU and I'm so totally confused about how to degree cams it's ridiculous but posplayr your explanations were excellent. Thank you.
And btw, I'm just happy when my bike runs.
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One question, does it really matter performance wise? Can't see 1/10 of a degree making any difference at all in the big scheme of things. That's like one zillisecond of difference in when the valves actually open and close. Does it get another horsepower? Another tenth of a horsepower? Does it alter the power band any amount that can be measured?
Just seems like overkill unless you are dyno testing the engine every tenth of a degree on both cams, with the carburetor already dialed in and the ignition set perfectly. Even then I can't imagine it would matter much.
Just an honest question from someone who's never done it, but read all about it and getting ready to jump into it on my 550/673. As soon as I find a degree wheel. Was going to print one up but if a tenth of a degree matters I can see that wouldn't be very good.
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