Shaft or Chain... that's the question...

Geez, all this talk has made me realize that I need to clean and lube the GS's chain before the West Virginia rally. Where the heck is my WD-40?

[Griffin]

Now, c'mon Griff. Did you have to put a chain and sprockets on the KZ?
It all depends on the seller and the price you are willing to pay. Low purchase price will usually mean a worn chain. Or old tires, like the KZ.

Notice I qualified that with "GS"......

The KZ was a well-cared for, ready to ride bike. I also paid half again to twice as much for it as I do for one of my typical GS purchases.

Most owners don't properly maintain their chains. As you've posted, a properly maintained, O or X ring chain will get you 20,000+ miles of useful service. My 700 has 73,000 miles on it, and it's only on its third chain.

[salty_monk]

Dan - you can have a go on mine some day.....

[awjonesii]

Water sucks, Gatorade is better.

Now, c'mon Griff. Did you have to put a chain and sprockets on the KZ?
It all depends on the seller and the price you are willing to pay. Low purchase price will usually mean a worn chain. Or old tires, like the KZ.

[Griffin]

One pleasant aspect of a shafty GS over a chain:

Every used GS-E or L I've ever bought needed a new chain and sprockets. I could automatically add $160 to the purchase price for those components, guaranteed.

Not so with a GS-G. Change the lubricants in the drivetrain, clean, inspect, and lube the splines when you change the rear tire, and off you go.

And if the rear splines are shot (possible on certain models), it doesn't cost $160 to fix.

[twr1776]

Today 07:55 AM
koolaid_kid I love this. We haven't had one of these for a while. 6 pages and still going.

Enough with the stats & comments George - Chain Drives are the Debil

[Jethro]

I'll gladly take replacing a chain and cogset over a new pumpkin.

If I wanted a tractor I'd buy a Farmall...

The only thing that ever caught me off guard with a GS shaftie was the inherent tendancy (as every shaftie has) to "climb the gears" when rolling on throttle in a corner. Its very subtle on the GS, but still that "squat" ive been so used to on a chain bike wasnt there. Took me a few trips of running a twistie road up and down to get used to it, but once you realize how the bike is going to react, its no big deal IMO.

What jacking effect? We're talking about Suzuki GS shafties here, not Yamahas, Kawasakis, or Hondas.

Suzuki's shaft drive setup is very, very neutral, and the other Japanese bike makers didn't start to get it right until much later.

BMW had the right idea with the Paralever, and I believe Moto Guzzi has a similar torque link arrangement.

However, the Suzuki GS setup is much simpler -- only one u-joint placed perfectly in line with the swingarm pivot. Simple, durable, no sliding splines anywhere, and little to no jacking effect.

You got me on this one. To be honest I have ridden all the bikes you mention except a GS shafty. I would like to make the comparison but my gut tells me if it does not feel just like my chain bike I still would not want one. I love the feel of my bike squatting under hard acceleration. Dan

"Use a quality lube, not some junk you get at Walmart."--Walmart sells Bell M/C spray lithium grease which is what these chains are factory lubed with to begin with---how can that be wrong? If you've ever replaced one you'd see that it is coated with the stuff. I've also read the care instructions from a major Japanese mfgr. and they said to use a water displacement spay (read WD40) exclusively for cleaning and lubing. I haven't tried that yet as I still clean with kerosene and lube with lithium. Many of the other chain lubes and "waxes" are tacky and would seem to me to cause crud to stick to them. I suppose everyone has their own method. Chains vs. shaft? It's all good.

Valid points. This is my opinion on each:
First, if you continue to read the WD-40 label, it is a penetrant. Which means it will try to get past the o-rings and wash away the lubricant there, which the chain lube won't be able to replace. And to consider WD-40 as a chain lube, well, I guess I'll just say I give that just as much weight as using it to clean my chain.
Second, just b/c the factory uses lithium grease does not mean it is the best. They have two goals in mind at the factory: 1) Get it to the consumer still looking new, not rusted. 2) Cut costs as much as possible.
I worked for a company for years where I had to sit and listen to endless arguments on how to save two cents per unit. True story. Since I have a unit of one chain, I will use the best, not the most cost-effective.
AFA which one to use, it takes a while to figure that one out.

[Steve]

I love this. We haven't had one of these for a while. 6 pages and still going.

Change your view settings to show 40 posts per page. This is barely into the SECOND page.

.

[marvinsc]

What jacking effect? We're talking about Suzuki GS shafties here, not Yamahas, Kawasakis, or Hondas.

Suzuki's shaft drive setup is very, very neutral, and the other Japanese bike makers didn't start to get it right until much later.

BMW had the right idea with the Paralever, and I believe Moto Guzzi has a similar torque link arrangement.

However, the Suzuki GS setup is much simpler -- only one u-joint placed perfectly in line with the swingarm pivot. Simple, durable, no sliding splines anywhere, and little to no jacking effect.

For a good example, ride an old Yamaha XS1100 then ride a GS850G. One jacks like a pogo stick and the other doesn't.

I love this. We haven't had one of these for a while. 6 pages and still going.

[bwringer]

For me I hate the jacking effect on a shafty.

What jacking effect? We're talking about Suzuki GS shafties here, not Yamahas, Kawasakis, or Hondas.

Suzuki's shaft drive setup is very, very neutral, and the other Japanese bike makers didn't start to get it right until much later.

BMW had the right idea with the Paralever, and I believe Moto Guzzi has a similar torque link arrangement.

However, the Suzuki GS setup is much simpler -- only one u-joint placed perfectly in line with the swingarm pivot. Simple, durable, no sliding splines anywhere, and little to no jacking effect.