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Same here, requires me to download them first.Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace
1981 GS550T - My First
1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike
Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"
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RobG1970
Posplayr - question, unless I am missing something which I could be, can you tell me when you are cleaning up the grounds to 1 point of ground, where do you connect the main battery ground. Is it just connected to the single point to the R/R??? Or some place else also??? Thanks Rob
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Originally posted by RobG1970 View PostPosplayr - question, unless I am missing something which I could be, can you tell me when you are cleaning up the grounds to 1 point of ground, where do you connect the main battery ground. Is it just connected to the single point to the R/R??? Or some place else also??? Thanks Rob
The single point refers to all currents returning to the R/R(-), not currents returning to the battery when cranking the starter.
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RobG1970
Originally posted by posplayr View PostThe large wire (#8 ) used for starter currents stay the same and are un affected.
The single point refers to all currents returning to the R/R(-), not currents returning to the battery when cranking the starter.
Rob
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Originally posted by RobG1970 View PostThanks Poslayr - may I confirm my wiring with you>? My large #8 black ground wire comes from my batteries -Neg side and bolts to a engine bolt. (please picture) so this is not part of the ground loop that we are trying to isolate the battery from>??? Sorry for all the questions, electrical is not my thing, in fact I WOULD RATHER tare the motor apart then chase down a short ...LOLOLOL again, thank you GREATLY for you help...
Rob
If you only run an additional (GROUND WIRE B) from the Battery(-) to the R/R(-) then any frame return currents will get picked up by this #8 wire (GROUND WIRE A) and allow current to flow past the negative battery post and through to the R/R(-). So all frame return currents as well as the battery charging current will be carried on the GROUND WIRE B.
However if you run yet another ground wire (GROUND WIRE C ) from the frame to the R/R(-), then current can flow straight throught to the R/R(-) without going through engine mounts, #8 GROUND WIRE A, and B. So provided you have good "frame ground" connections, the only current on GROUND WIRE C will be the current used to charge the battery.
That will minimize the voltage drops between the battery and R/R.
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MisterCinders
After re-wiring the bike, I tried to incorporate these measures into the new harness, but even with the diagrams, I get lost. Of course, I am pretty dumb.
Coming at this from the available grounds with the following definitions:
FRAME = a solid frame bolt
BATT NEG = the negative battery post
I think the best approach is:
Engine/starter ground (the fat ground wire from the back of the engine) to BATT NEG .
R/R ground wire to R/R post
The two ground ring terminals from the harness to (a) solenoid ground post; and (b) FRAME
To this we add the following ground wires:
FRAME to R/R
R/R to BATT NEG.
The only grounds at BATT NEG are (1) the R/R link; and (2) the starter ground from the engine.
If I understand this, the frame acts as a ground because of the ground link chain of
FRAME -> R/R -> BATT NEG.
Otherwise, there is no connection between the BATT NEG and the wiring (which would render the frame not a ground at all).
Also, for the two ground terminals off the harness, could I connect them to FRAME and add a new ground wire from the solenoid (for the relay, not the starter ground) to FRAME?
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Crankthat
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A schematic and a physical layout drawing is the best way to convey the design.
Originally posted by MisterCinders View PostAfter re-wiring the bike, I tried to incorporate these measures into the new harness, but even with the diagrams, I get lost. Of course, I am pretty dumb.
Coming at this from the available grounds with the following definitions:
FRAME = a solid frame bolt
BATT NEG = the negative battery post
I think the best approach is:
Engine/starter ground (the fat ground wire from the back of the engine) to BATT NEG .
R/R ground wire to R/R post
The two ground ring terminals from the harness to (a) solenoid ground post; and (b) FRAME
To this we add the following ground wires:
FRAME to R/R
R/R to BATT NEG.
The only grounds at BATT NEG are (1) the R/R link; and (2) the starter ground from the engine.
If I understand this, the frame acts as a ground because of the ground link chain of
FRAME -> R/R -> BATT NEG.
Otherwise, there is no connection between the BATT NEG and the wiring (which would render the frame not a ground at all).
Also, for the two ground terminals off the harness, could I connect them to FRAME and add a new ground wire from the solenoid (for the relay, not the starter ground) to FRAME?
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2006
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- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
1980 GS1000G - Sold
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1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
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1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
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Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
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chanceafrica
forgive me, as i am a little confused. im sure youve covered every issue or question i have but im a little slow(lol).
here is my issue, the r/r wires keep getting burnt at the connections. i have the r/r black lead going to the - terminal on the battery. volts sit at 12v idle and climb to 12.4 at 5k rpm's. battery does not charge past 12.4.
what ive gathered is, its best to solder the 5 connections and use shrink wrap. as well as send r/r black wire (-) , the return, as close to the r/r as possible, such as the r/r mounting bolt.
did i get that right? and what else am i missing?
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