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    #31
    Same here, requires me to download them first.
    Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

    1981 GS550T - My First
    1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
    2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

    Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
    Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
    and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

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      #32
      Thanks guys, I'm slowly starting to reconstruct some of the lost files I had hosted at the old site. I seem to still have most on my system.

      I guess the download is what happens for free accounts. Free advertising
      Last edited by posplayr; 05-19-2012, 03:23 PM.

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        #33
        Posplayr - question, unless I am missing something which I could be, can you tell me when you are cleaning up the grounds to 1 point of ground, where do you connect the main battery ground. Is it just connected to the single point to the R/R??? Or some place else also??? Thanks Rob

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          #34
          Originally posted by RobG1970 View Post
          Posplayr - question, unless I am missing something which I could be, can you tell me when you are cleaning up the grounds to 1 point of ground, where do you connect the main battery ground. Is it just connected to the single point to the R/R??? Or some place else also??? Thanks Rob
          The large wire (#8 ) used for starter currents stay the same and are un affected.

          The single point refers to all currents returning to the R/R(-), not currents returning to the battery when cranking the starter.

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            #35
            Originally posted by posplayr View Post
            The large wire (#8 ) used for starter currents stay the same and are un affected.

            The single point refers to all currents returning to the R/R(-), not currents returning to the battery when cranking the starter.
            Thanks Poslayr - may I confirm my wiring with you>? My large #8 black ground wire comes from my batteries -Neg side and bolts to a engine bolt. (please picture) so this is not part of the ground loop that we are trying to isolate the battery from>??? Sorry for all the questions, electrical is not my thing, in fact I WOULD RATHER tare the motor apart then chase down a short ...LOLOLOL again, thank you GREATLY for you help...
            Rob

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              #36
              Originally posted by RobG1970 View Post
              Thanks Poslayr - may I confirm my wiring with you>? My large #8 black ground wire comes from my batteries -Neg side and bolts to a engine bolt. (please picture) so this is not part of the ground loop that we are trying to isolate the battery from>??? Sorry for all the questions, electrical is not my thing, in fact I WOULD RATHER tare the motor apart then chase down a short ...LOLOLOL again, thank you GREATLY for you help...
              Rob
              leave that #8 wire in (call it GROUND WIRE A).

              If you only run an additional (GROUND WIRE B) from the Battery(-) to the R/R(-) then any frame return currents will get picked up by this #8 wire (GROUND WIRE A) and allow current to flow past the negative battery post and through to the R/R(-). So all frame return currents as well as the battery charging current will be carried on the GROUND WIRE B.

              However if you run yet another ground wire (GROUND WIRE C ) from the frame to the R/R(-), then current can flow straight throught to the R/R(-) without going through engine mounts, #8 GROUND WIRE A, and B. So provided you have good "frame ground" connections, the only current on GROUND WIRE C will be the current used to charge the battery.
              That will minimize the voltage drops between the battery and R/R.

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                #37
                After re-wiring the bike, I tried to incorporate these measures into the new harness, but even with the diagrams, I get lost. Of course, I am pretty dumb.

                Coming at this from the available grounds with the following definitions:

                FRAME = a solid frame bolt
                BATT NEG = the negative battery post

                I think the best approach is:

                Engine/starter ground (the fat ground wire from the back of the engine) to BATT NEG .

                R/R ground wire to R/R post

                The two ground ring terminals from the harness to (a) solenoid ground post; and (b) FRAME

                To this we add the following ground wires:

                FRAME to R/R

                R/R to BATT NEG.

                The only grounds at BATT NEG are (1) the R/R link; and (2) the starter ground from the engine.

                If I understand this, the frame acts as a ground because of the ground link chain of

                FRAME -> R/R -> BATT NEG.

                Otherwise, there is no connection between the BATT NEG and the wiring (which would render the frame not a ground at all).

                Also, for the two ground terminals off the harness, could I connect them to FRAME and add a new ground wire from the solenoid (for the relay, not the starter ground) to FRAME?

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                  #38
                  Thank you for this great thread.
                  This all makes more sense now .

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                    #39
                    Nice that it made sense

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                      #40
                      A schematic and a physical layout drawing is the best way to convey the design.
                      Originally posted by MisterCinders View Post
                      After re-wiring the bike, I tried to incorporate these measures into the new harness, but even with the diagrams, I get lost. Of course, I am pretty dumb.

                      Coming at this from the available grounds with the following definitions:

                      FRAME = a solid frame bolt
                      BATT NEG = the negative battery post

                      I think the best approach is:

                      Engine/starter ground (the fat ground wire from the back of the engine) to BATT NEG .

                      R/R ground wire to R/R post

                      The two ground ring terminals from the harness to (a) solenoid ground post; and (b) FRAME

                      To this we add the following ground wires:

                      FRAME to R/R

                      R/R to BATT NEG.

                      The only grounds at BATT NEG are (1) the R/R link; and (2) the starter ground from the engine.

                      If I understand this, the frame acts as a ground because of the ground link chain of

                      FRAME -> R/R -> BATT NEG.

                      Otherwise, there is no connection between the BATT NEG and the wiring (which would render the frame not a ground at all).

                      Also, for the two ground terminals off the harness, could I connect them to FRAME and add a new ground wire from the solenoid (for the relay, not the starter ground) to FRAME?

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Jim - seen this yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=200004

                        SH775 Series Shindengen
                        1980 GS1000G - Sold
                        1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                        1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                        1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                        2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                        1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                        2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                        www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                        TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
                          Jim - seen this yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=200004

                          SH775 Series Shindengen
                          Dan, spent a little time loping for documentation and it looks like the SH775 is series but uses SCRs so it willmrun hotter than a compufire and not produce as much voltage. It should be equivalent to the CE600 series r/rs.disclosure I have never tested a sh775

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                            #43
                            Thanks for the explanation.

                            Ed
                            GS750TZ V&H/4-1, Progressive Shocks, Rebuilt MC/braided line, Tarozzi Stabilizer[Seq#2312]
                            GS750TZ Parts Bike [Seq#6036]
                            GSX-R750Y (Sold)

                            my opinion shouldn't be taken as gospel or in any way that would lead you to believe otherwise (30Sep2021)

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                              #44
                              Thank you guys for the thorough walkthrough. I am a horrible auto electrician, excelling at letting the blue smoke out, but not so good at getting it back in. This resource will definitely help get my GS running right. Cheers!

                              Comment


                                #45
                                forgive me, as i am a little confused. im sure youve covered every issue or question i have but im a little slow(lol).

                                here is my issue, the r/r wires keep getting burnt at the connections. i have the r/r black lead going to the - terminal on the battery. volts sit at 12v idle and climb to 12.4 at 5k rpm's. battery does not charge past 12.4.

                                what ive gathered is, its best to solder the 5 connections and use shrink wrap. as well as send r/r black wire (-) , the return, as close to the r/r as possible, such as the r/r mounting bolt.

                                did i get that right? and what else am i missing?

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