Minimal 550 Bobber Schematic

[kingstonphoto]

This thread started TWO YEARS AGO.

so??? id like to see the actual set ups rather than diagrams

[Pendulum]

so??? id like to see the actual set ups rather than diagrams

Are you on Canibeat? I doubt there's more than 1 Kingston Photo around...

I'll see if I've still got my drawings from my 550. What year do you have?

[kingstonphoto]

Yes I am. Not in that game anymore. I have a 77 gs550

[Pendulum]

Yes I am. Not in that game anymore. I have a 77 gs550

wrd, I've got a '79 so my schematics will be the same as your bike would need. PM me with exactly what you want to see/know.

[bobbed]

So what about no starter kick only do u need to run a different ingnition and does the rotor have to magnets rather then one dumb questions I know thanks

[posplayr]

Bump, I added the original powerpoint files to the first post.

[posplayr]

Bobber Bump

[blbiker56]

Hey Posplayr,

You seem to really know your stuff. I am in the middle of a project which is a 1980 gs550. I did use your wiring diagram, and it has been great and fairly easy to follow (being my first shot at electrical). I did have a question. I finally finished the harness last night and she almost started and was sputtering, and then nothing. I pulled the spark plug to check for spark and nothing. I went inside and had dinner, then went back outside and tested the spark plug again (didnt change anything) and it had spark! Now, it has no spark. I have been working on the bike for 2-3 hours trying to find why it is still not sparking. I have a cheap harbor freight multi meter and the coils read around 5.5 ohms. is this normal? also if I leave the ignition on the left side coil starts to get very hot.

Ok, now for my questions.

Is there a way to test my ignitor?
Will the Dyna S ignition work with this wiring diagram?

I really would appreciate any feedback.

Thanks,

[posplayr]

Is your ignitor a dyna S? It doesn't matter; there is a test procedure in the manual for testing an ignitor. Except if the problem is intermittent you test will pass when it is working and maybe fail when it is not.

One coil will always get hot if you leave the key on and that says that the side of the ignitor is at least turning on that Coil.

The negative side of the coils will be pulled low when the ignitor is allowing current to flow through teh coil. It only does one coil at a time.

There should be nothing keeping you from installing the Dyna S into your harness.

[blbiker56]

OK, Finally got my Dyna DS3-2 in today! it comes with a wiring diagram, so if all goes well, ill post how I wired up to this minimal wiring setup. Ill keep y'all updated on the electrical build.

Also, has anyone used these Dyna s modules? Does it get rid on the "Ignitor" box?

Thanks.

[posplayr]

OK, Finally got my Dyna DS3-2 in today! it comes with a wiring diagram, so if all goes well, ill post how I wired up to this minimal wiring setup. Ill keep y'all updated on the electrical build.

Also, has anyone used these Dyna s modules? Does it get rid on the "Ignitor" box?

Thanks.

Yes........................

The Dyna S install is well worn stuff:

Add a Coil relay mod with minimal impact to schematic been done also.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?141055-Yet-another-Coil-Relay-Mod-(with-Dyna-S)&highlight=coil+relay+mod

The SSPB supersedes all of these.

[posplayr]

There is no advantage to be gained by a single point ground or running a headlight ground wire back to the VRR ground point. It simply adds complexity and, unless the long ground wire is quite large gauge, increases voltage drop. The frame and engine are essentially a zero voltage drop under starting motor loads and even a lower loss issue for small loads such as headlight.

There are far too many messy bike wiring jobs created by running wires were the need not be. Just my $0.02. If you don't agree, let the voltage drop figures stand for themselves. One does not see automotive manufacturers running common ground wires back from the rear of an automobile for just this reason.

Common grounds on bikes are a production cost saving more than anything and are a reasonable approach for such small electical systems, given the proximity of components but they usually compromise too much by using tiny wire sizes.

I'm not trying to change anyone's mind but simply hoping to spare someone unneeded expense and problems.

That is about the fastest "jump to a conclusion" I have ever seen. Sorry the links explain if although the pictures are all gone.

I was looking at this old thread and reread some of the posts by Normk. I can't argue much and largely agree with his two prior posts, till he came out of this third post and out of the blue statement above.

There are a lot of reason that a single point ground may be useful, and most of the reasons center on the separated grounds not sharing current. Normk is talking a lot about adding ground wires to the headlamp bucket because he supposes those circuits are designed with too much resistance to offer a low impedance path for the power being delivered to the headlamp. I generally do not find this to be the case but rather it is the connections that get dirty rather than the wires being too small.

It is easy to confirm by straight forward calculations what any particular wire size will have a voltage drop based on 1.)the gauge of wire, 2.)length of the run 3.)temperature and the 4.)current flowing. Generally these voltage drops by design should only be numbers at a few 1/10's of a volt whereas most people know that 1 volt drops are not unusual and in some cases it is much worse. This is not because of wire resistance it is oxidation of the connections!!!!

As I mentioned I wil not quibble with most of what Normk posted, except when he jumped to the conclusion that there is no reason for a single point ground on a motorcycle / as I highlighted above. What Normk is suggesting is true if the only thing you were worried about whs your headlamp and had no issues with dirty connections. Assuming that is not the case which as a rule is almost always true, the main reason I have proposed, proselytized and further promulgated the notion of a "single point ground" is in the context of routing the power returns for the charging system. The described SPG will minimize the effects of corrosion on battery charging.

Normk apparently did not consider this and it is safe to assume he never read the various analysis on grounding I have posted leading me to this SPG implementation. The issue of voltage drop to electrical loads (excluding the battery) is typically dealt with using relays to minimize the number of connections between the Power T and the load. The SSPB is a solid state version of this where and electronic MOSFET is used to switch the power avoiding much of the connections between battery, ignition switch and fuse box.