Earl's Brake Line Thread

[Steve]

Looks good, Ed, I just have a couple of questions.

1. You show a metal block with a couple of holes in the "tools required". I only saw it used as a cutting anvil. Is that all it is?

2. I did not see any link to a source. Are these parts easily available virtually everywhere, or is there a preferred vendor?

This is on my list of things to do this winter, on at least two bikes. I think the third one was done before we got it.

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[Nessism]

Looks good, Ed, I just have a couple of questions.

1. You show a metal block with a couple of holes in the "tools required". I only saw it used as a cutting anvil. Is that all it is?

2. I did not see any link to a source. Are these parts easily available virtually everywhere, or is there a preferred vendor?

This is on my list of things to do this winter, on at least two bikes. I think the third one was done before we got it.

.

Aluminum block is indeed a cutting anvil. You can cut the hose other ways too as shown in the video link such as using a dremel cut off tool. If you use one of these cut slow though because the heat will be high.

The original post has links to a source. Please go back and check close since the links are hidden inside the text.

Good luck

[BigD_83]

A nice, clean upgrade of the previous information. Great photos, clear directions.

If it isn't a sticky yet, it should be.


Thanks for taking the time to post it up, Ed.

[Steve]

The original post has links to a source. Please go back and check close since the links are hidden inside the text.

Thanks. I saw the text, did not notice it was a link, because I have underlines turned off in my browser.

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[greg78gs750]

Did this on both my bikes. Easy, solid, cheap, and you are left with some knowledge and a new skill. One thing to add, if you are into neatness, you can slip some heat-shrink onto the lines before assembly then shrink it over the cut plastic coating and hose end to seal it from any crud getting between the plastic and steel sheath, on the black lines it looks very neat and finished.

[Gorminrider]

well done, Nessism..! nice and clear pix. I made a pdf out of the thread! (..anyone else wants to, try Flashpeak Slimjet which does a pretty good job of saving pages this way)

[bwringer]

One thing to mention -- if you are anywhere near Indianapolis, you can walk right in to the Earl's store in Speedway a few blocks from the track (the shop address is Gasoline Alley!) and buy off the shelf. An extremely cool place with all kinds of motorsports stuff. Their prices are quite reasonable as well. I always end up buying a few bags of Ty-Rap brand zip ties -- Ty-Raps are MUCH higher quality than the junk you get in hardware stores, and their prices for genuine Ty-Raps are the best I've seen.

They don't have online ordering, and the store is only open 8-5 Monday-Friday. No weekend hours. On race weekends they have people running back and forth to the track as needed but they're not open to the public.

http://www.earlsindy.com/

[srsupertrap]

Thanks Ed for putting this tutorial together & sharing with the us. I will reference back to this in the future.

[Kiwi Canuck]

Awesome, thanks Ed for the write up and tutorial.

I have used the "other brand" and have had issues with them being too long and making them not sit right.

This solution should work well, the only concern I have would be the fact that you need to cut the coloured jacket back so that it's exposed when installed.

I'll certainly try this product on my next build but will need to use heat shrink and would be interested if the stock wear protector springs would fit without looking funny on a slimmer hose.

David.

[jdion81]

I'm wondering if their prices went up recently. I'm at $107 just for 8' of line and the straight non adjustable ends, no crush washers or olives. BTW, do you know if the ends come with the olives? I'm figuring you need to buy them separately based on the line you get. I'll probably end up calling to verify before I order.

[Nessism]

The olives come with the hose ends. It's a good idea to have one spare though just in case.

[Sam 78 GS750]

So this is for the front... Anybody do the rear incorporating a new steel line? In the middle of doing this now, and was planning on bending a new line and putting a single flare on both ends. Still trying to figure out which ends I would need for both the hard steel line, and the flexible line to join the 2. Was planning on calling Earl's today. Already have the front lines done. I had a bunch of line and ends already on hand for that.

Anyone just eliminate the hard line in the rear, and do a single flexible line from the master cylinder to the caliper?

[Nessism]

Yes, eliminate the hard line and go flexi all the way.

[Sam 78 GS750]

Yes, eliminate the hard line and go flexi all the way.

Any special consideration needed to eliminate rubbing on the frame etc? Add any extra securing points?

[Chuck78]

Thanks for updating this info and posting this, Ed
! This is on my list of definite must haves, I actually have a whole pile of older stainless lines and a few used ones, and enough Earl's stuff to do my bike, but I've been lazy to swap it out...