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    powder coating

    who has had experience with powder coating? i do know once you powder coat you cant really go back since its chemically bonded to the material at that point, but I'm okay with that.

    I'm wondering how it has held up for the people who have had it done, cosmetically and all.

    I plan on getting the frame, swingarm, and wheels powder coated a gloss black aswell as getting the motor, exhaust, and front brake caliper powder coated a satin black. i know this is a hefty fine but I'm honestly at the point where I don't see why I shouldn't go all out on this bike, why would I completely tear down a bike just to do a subpar job on something I at one point took so much pride in fixing.
    Ian

    1982 GS650GLZ
    1982 XS650

    #2
    it's the CHIT! (best to have someone who's hip to 'protecting' threads or tight-tolerant surfaces from getting the coating)

    you're basically baking on a plastic coating. it holds the shine. takes a hell of a lot to chip. ie most of the time it will adhere to denting.

    only way to fly ... where applicable.

    I ran day-to-day operations (mainly sales / dist) of two high end Mtn Bike maufacturers ... where we had in-house powder coating. great stuff.

    it's possible to 'go back' ... it's just messy /kinda costly.
    1100 Katana / 1100 ES

    pragmatic not dogmatic

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      #3
      okay awesome, i believe it is going to be the route im going as it does seem the best way to go for a long well lived cosmetic life, i plan on keeping this bike forever so i couldnt see myself just doing the paint myself as it does not look consistent and will probably chip off very easy.

      i got a quote today for the frame wheels and swingarm which would be 650 including the prep work and he did say he would cover up all the threading holes to make sure it would be ready to put back together. im hoping i can get a better price as my friends dad who i am doing some work for has built a tank for the owner of a powder coat shop, so we will see.
      Ian

      1982 GS650GLZ
      1982 XS650

      Comment


        #4
        I have restored many bikes and always use powdercoat on frames swingarm and all the bits and pieces that go on the frame. As far as the engine is concerned I would stay away from powder coat. On my engines I use PJ1 Fastblack satin which has held up great over the years. I have also used powder coat on calipers and Mastercylinders in the past but tend to just paint them now. I use high temp caliper paint for those items or the PJ1 I used on the engine. I would be real shy using a powdercoater blasting you engine if they are not familiar with them. And of course it will need to be completely dissembled. I do all my own prep work with the engine using stainless steel beads. There is a tremendous amount of prep work involved

        Here is all the pieces from my GS1100GL that I am restoring


        And painted calipers and other parts


        Calipers mounted
        Last edited by craz1; 04-09-2022, 11:39 PM.

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          #5

          You may want to consider VaporBlasting on you engine and leaving it bare aluminum. The finish is superb and you don't need to worry about the paint.
          Here is my 73 Z1900 with PJ1 paint and the RD350 and my CB550 with VaporBlasted cases, cylinders,head





          Last edited by craz1; 04-09-2022, 11:48 PM.

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            #6
            Nothing wrong with powercoat and it's not really chemically bonded to the base material or hard to remove with decent paint stripper if you "want to go back".
            All my bike frames are powder coated and my all year round daily rider was done over 20 years ago and still holding up.
            As Craz1 already mentioned it's best to just powder the frame and associated parts and avoid it on engines and some aluminium parts.
            For engines i used to use PJ1 when it was good back in the day but now it is usless since they changed the formula a few years ago .
            Now i use Simoniz/Sperex tough black satin which behaves like the old PJ1 and can be baked on once air dried and heat manipulated to give varying finishes that are not affected by petrol and it also gives the closest match to the original kawasaki black engine paint.

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              #7
              Hi Rob I remember you saying that on the Z1 form. I may have to try the Simoniz/Sperex. Cant get it in the US but it looks like Amazon has it and can ship overseas. I have used PJ1 on several projects lately (last year or so)and have not had any issues.Maybe they worked on the problems. The Z1 that was done 13 years ago is holing up great.

              Comment


                #8
                Powder coating that's well done is very good, but there are plenty of stories of it not being well done and then water gets into cracks and corrosion starts underneath, lifting the coating, so it ends up looking dreadful.
                Just be sure all the prep is done properly (either by yourself or the coater) and be sure the coater has a good rep in your area. Things like bike frames are often taken in as a side job for cash in the pocket and get done at the end of shift or tacked on to another, larger job while the gear is ready with the right colour in it. There can be a benefit from that reflected in price (ie, lower) but you can't be sure what quality it is.
                ---- Dave

                Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

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