1982 GS1100E - My First (Project) Bike

[Rob S.]

Rob S. I avoided keeping track of the cost on purpose, haha. I bought the bike for $500. I’ll get the number to you once I free up some brain cells.

I know all about not revealing receipts. When I inherited my cousin's '68 327 (stick shift) Camaro with 100k miles back in 1973, people began advising me against "throwing good money after bad." I've been ignoring them ever since.

(Half a century...YIKES!)

[rsquire]

Rob S. The exhaust and tires were the most expensive single purchases, I believe at ~$750 and $400 respectively. A real loose number would
be around $2700 not including consumables like fluids, cleaners, grease, etc. It was probably more, but I’d prefer to leave some mystery in this relationship.

[rsquire]

Suzukian & salty_monk Got an update for y'all. Took the advice and ordered some Mikuni 47.5s from Jets R Us. Took my calipers to them and they looked legitimate. Put them in today and ran it through the highest idle method with the new jets. Seemed like it settled at these adjustment screw turns: 2.5/3.0/2.5/3.0. Definitely lower than with the previous pilots, but I assumed they'd be a little tighter. At those turns, it seems like I'm getting the exact same popping as before. Popping a bit on choke, popping on decel, and idle is a little rhythmic, but no actual pops.

As an additional note, I did notice a few drops worth of liquid coming out of the drain hose from the air box. I tested my petcock last week and it seemed to be functioning properly (replaced with a new aftermarket petcock a few months ago). Carb Forum float/needle/valve seemed a little more sponge-y than the others, so I replaced the need with a clean spare that I had and they all seem to be opening and closing without issue when I examine them off the bike.

I'll get back to it tomorrow and see if turning them out a bit further changes anything. I'm also going to do a thorough exhaust leak test. I tighted down all of the boots around the carbs and airbox, so I can't imagine it's anything there. Started to feel a little defeated about it. Maybe I need to source a stock exhaust for actual testing.

[Suzukian]

If you needle valve has removable seats, they could be worn. As far as the fuel petcock, for now, put an in line shut off valve. This will allow you re move the tank, and go through the petcock checking procedures. I don't know if yours is vacuum operated, or just a valve. The shut off valve will prevent gas from pushing past the carbs and possibly contaminate the engine case oil.

[rsquire]

Further updates: beginning to feel frustrated.

I adjusted my mixture screws out a bit further (3.5, 3.25, 3.25, 3.5) with these 47.5 pilots and exhaust is STILL popping on deceleration. I hopped on YouTube and watched every video that has an I4 GS with a Delkevic 4-1 and they seem to all have pop on deceleration. Exhaust pops with choke on as well and starting to fear I'm going in the wrong direction. I am going to live with the sound for now and just appreciate the muscle car sound.

Spark plugs: Plugs for Cylinders 2 and 3 were pretty dang black/sooty. Almost dry sooty, so I tightened down the mixture screws about 1/4 turn and ordered new plugs to get a better read. I really need to do an actual 'Plug Chop' soon. 1 and 4 plugs looked good.

Petcock test: I attached some long hoses to my vacuum line and fuel line ports on the petcock and confirmed there is no fuel coming down vacuum line and it is supplying fuel as vacuum is supplied.

Tested compression for the first time since I got the thing running. Warm & WOT - 150, 148, 155, 158. Seems pretty good and making me feel better about the top end of the bike.

Concern:
I checked my oil level today and it was right at the LOW level. I changed the oil 3-4 weeks ago and haven't really ridden that far (wish I kept track of miles), so I'm starting to fear that I'm burning oil. Maybe this has something to do with my exhaust notes/sooty plugs? My airbox drain hose had a very small amount of what my amateur nose thinks is an oil and fuel mixture. Not enough to really drain, but the end was definitely wet and could get it on the rag.

I am now getting in a little over my head, but will try some basic maintenance stuff.

• Thinking I have fuel entering crankcase from overflowing carbs. Petcock tested good, so I am starting to believe I have some faulty float valve seats or needles. Ordered 4 new Mikuni seats and needles and will replace. Floats set to 23.1mm.
• Switching from Maxima 4 oil to Rotella 15W-40 Diesel Conventional (for spiritual reason, I guess)
• Switching from HiFlo filters to OEM if this will help regulate pressure at all
• Cleaning my valve cover 'oil separator,' checking for any plugged ports around here, and replacing the gasket while I'm in there.
• Fixing a small half moon cap oil leak that I found (I believe it's my last/final oil leak) that may have contributed to oil loss, but hard to imagine it's that much oil

[trevor]

I love mine....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...80&fit=bounds][/URL]

[Rob S.]

...they seem to all have pop on deceleration. Exhaust pops with choke on as well and starting to fear I'm going in the wrong direction. I am going to live with the sound for now and just appreciate the muscle car sound.

You've reached the first plateau, Grasshopper. They all pop (on deceleration). But what about acceleration? Does it stutter, cough, stumble or hesitate? Does it pull strong from idle to red line?

I've just re-read where you say she's a little "jumpy" on acceleration. Is that a bad thing? Sounds like how Cycle World described it in July of '82. If you can get your hands on it, it's a great read.

[bonanzadave]

They all pop (on deceleration).

Mine does too. And more so with 91oct than with 87oct. This after going through the carbs, new intake boots, valve adj, and carbtune sync.

I'll stay tuned to see how this plays out for Mr. rsquire

[rsquire]

I love mine....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...80&fit=bounds][/URL]

Good lookin’ bike Trevor! Hoping to clean mine up to your standards soon. Do you have details on that fork brace?

[rsquire]

bonanzadave solidarity, brother. Will update if anything changes.

Rob S. Y’know, I think that mag might be something I’d like to own on paper. I’m gonna search. The bike idles smooth at ~1050 RPM and pulls hard all the way to red line, which I need to do more often.

[93Bandit]

A little snap crackle and pop on deceleration is normal for a carburetored machine, usually more noticeable the higher the RPMs are. I personally love it and wouldn't try to rid myself of the symphony. It can become obnoxious depending on how loud your exhaust is and how you ride, so I try to be considerate of others on the road when having fun. Although my 850 still has the factory exhaust so it sounds pretty castrated as it is. I used to have a 5.slow Foxbody that was fairly modified and used to run it open headers and listen to the crackle on deceleration.

[trevor]

Good lookin’ bike Trevor! Hoping to clean mine up to your standards soon. Do you have details on that fork brace?

The fork brace came with the bike....I blasted and painted it....it's old school and was around before the "modern" for braces that wrap around the forks....not sure how effective they are but I love the old school look.

[Grimly]

The fork brace came with the bike....I blasted and painted it....it's old school and was around before the "modern" for braces that wrap around the forks....not sure how effective they are but I love the old school look.

They used to be sold as Muscle Braces, on this side of the pond.
I've seen them relatively recently as new stock, but I doubt it was the original maker and likely others copied it anyway.