Jdub goes there 1981 650e rebuild

[Nessism]

Knowing where to draw the line on "good enough" is an age-old quandary. Good luck with that! What you have shown so far suggests you are going to have ONE FINE ride when done. Take that for what it's worth...

Yeah, I used Gun Kote on my wheels and brake calipers. It's less affected by brake fluid and solvents than common rattle can paint. If I were to reset, I'd use Cerakote. If you have a compressor, sandblaster, spray gun, and an anal desire to make things the best they can be, that's the play, in my opinion.

[jdub6092]

20240204_145546.jpg Spent most of Saturday prepping the frame.
Aircraft remover only took off about 30%, followed by a stripping disc and stiff brass cup brush. Still about 40% to go and almost all of the tight areas remain.
Other than installing the carburetors (which I will eventually get to do again), I don't look forward to this type of work. Just might farm this out to a sand blaster shop.

[jdub6092]

Looking GOOD!

One thing with painting the wheels...If you are the type to use solvent to clean chain lube splatter, then rattle can paint is not a good play. You may want to leave well enough alone, on the paint front. Some guys get their wheels powder coated, which would be good. It's all about the escalation effect!

I saw that you got your Kawi rims gun coated. Was that pretty expensive?
20240204_142821.jpg So far I have rattle-canned the rear rotor and caliper hanger bracket with VHT Satin Black Caliper paint. These are the only ones I baked in my light bulb oven (with heat gun assist). Got it close to 200F.
I also rattled the seat pan and all three calipers with Duplicolor acrylic epoxy. These were part of my learning curve as it only took a few drops of brake fluid to eat both primer and paint clean off right next to the banjo fitting. I thought I had the fluid purged and wiped off, but it might have been a drip that melted it. Anyways, the calipers will need to be redone.
Seat pan already showing scrapes where it slides into the frame.

[Nessism]

Looking GOOD!

One thing with painting the wheels...If you are the type to use solvent to clean chain lube splatter, then rattle can paint is not a good play. You may want to leave well enough alone, on the paint front. Some guys get their wheels powder coated, which would be good. It's all about the escalation effect!

[jdub6092]

20240204_125245.jpg Front rim cleaned up and ready for bearings, tube.and Bridgestone Battlax tire.
Inner dark graphite (?) paint a bit faded in places, so about 50/50 whether to get it recoated.

[Grimly]

Run a bead of weld along the inside of the bearing cup, it will drop out when it cools and shrinks.
When fitting the new one, I just knock them down until they seat. The frame makers leave a ledge for that purpose.

[jdub6092]

20240204_055500.jpg Don't think there is a standard tool for removing this race as it flares out and cant be reached from the top with a drift or screw driver. Looks like I'll need to cut it out like on Ed's KZ750 rebuild.

It's also not flush with the bottom, nor does it butt up to the retaining lip above and is skewed. Didn't have a problem with steering though. The bearing was tinted orange from the rust and a bit on the tight side.

A little confused as to how far in to install the new race as most I've seen are inserted flush with the bottom of the neck. Thinking that it is inserted flush and cranking down the tree will determine the final position. Have a couple of weeks to figure it out as it's time to prep and paint the frame.

[jdub6092]

I am not an engine builder, but twice I've used the dingleberry hone that Ed linked above. I think I did OK. Don't remember which grit. I could look when I get home and see if I still have the package it came in. You can find numerous videos on youtube on the proper technique, and decide which, if any, you want to follow. I used Marvel Mystery Oil as Lube. Not specifically recommending that, either. Watch some videos and decide for yourself.
This my my result:

Looks great Rich. I'll use that close-up as a guide for obtaining the 45 degree cross hatch pattern that is required.

[jdub6092]

Please check my KZ750 rebuild thread, if you have time. It may offer you some suggestions on the restoration process of your bike...

Just got finished binge reading your rebuild. Fantastic job Ed. Holy crap. I've been polishing hardware as I go along, but zincing every piece was a pipe dream at best.
Your instrument cluster looked brand new. Mine doesn't even have all the lettering. Crazy attention to detail.
Has anyone here taken their rebuilds to the Las Vegas AIMS Expo?

[jdub6092]

Done. Thanks for the recommendation. Noticed the tool diameter (2.5") is just slightly larger than the cylinder (62mm/2.44"). I assume this will put enough pressure on the walls to deglaze and create the cross hatch pattern?

Any recommendations for piston rings?

Just removed all of the valves and got started on cleaning and polishing. Ordered lapping tool and compound. Combustion chambers were heavily encrusted and are gonna take some time.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I am not an engine builder, but twice I've used the dingleberry hone that Ed linked above. I think I did OK. Don't remember which grit. I could look when I get home and see if I still have the package it came in. You can find numerous videos on youtube on the proper technique, and decide which, if any, you want to follow. I used Marvel Mystery Oil as Lube. Not specifically recommending that, either. Watch some videos and decide for yourself.
This my my result:

[Nessism]

https://www.amazon.com/Brush-Research-Standard-Cylinders-Hydraulics/dp/B007INT3VO

320 grit would be okay also.

[jdub6092]

Pistons removed and cleaned up.
Looks like the rings are out of spec according to the service manual.
Could I get some recommendations for rings ? Are the Cruzinimage rings satisfactory. The cost for four sets is about the same as one NOS set.
Also, I will need to hone the cylinders. Recommendations for a honing tool, size and grit?

[jdub6092]

You don't need to remove the pistons. But if you do, the only tools needed are a pair of needle nose pliers for the C clip. Once you touch the clips, they must be replaced also.

Too bad you aren't in this area anymore, I'd help you. Or, at least, offer tool support. Salty_Monk (Dan) is in Redondo Beach. The GSR is a great community!

Regarding, painting yourself or powdercoat, I vote the later, as long as you can find a reasonable price. Rattle can paint sucks. You need to move up to two part catalized epoxy primer and then top coat, to match the durability. Plus, painting yourself, is a crazy amount of work, if you do it RIGHT. Please check my KZ750 rebuild thread, if you have time. It may offer you some suggestions on the restoration process of your bike...

I certainly will check out your rebuild.
Good to know that I can use needle nose. The Service Manual was calling for a special tool to disconnect the pistons. I'll check the rings as well, and then will need to find a ring compressor if I need to replace them.

I'm not too concerned with the cost at this point, now that I've committed to this project. However, my wife keeps showing me the CC statements and asking how much more I will spend. Probably a bit north of 2K already.

[Nessism]

I will eventually replace the base gasket for sure. Will I need a special tool for removing the pistons from the rods? Or is there a homebrew method.

I see you are from Torrance. I lived off of Crenshaw just up the hill in PV Peninsula. I bought the bike at Laguna Hills Suzuki. Don't think they are still in business.

You don't need to remove the pistons. But if you do, the only tools needed are a pair of needle nose pliers for the C clip. Once you touch the clips, they must be replaced also.

Too bad you aren't in this area anymore, I'd help you. Or, at least, offer tool support. Salty_Monk (Dan) is in Redondo Beach. The GSR is a great community!

Regarding, painting yourself or powdercoat, I vote the later, as long as you can find a reasonable price. Rattle can paint sucks. You need to move up to two part catalized epoxy primer and then top coat, to match the durability. Plus, painting yourself, is a crazy amount of work, if you do it RIGHT. Please check my KZ750 rebuild thread, if you have time. It may offer you some suggestions on the restoration process of your bike...