Jdub goes there 1981 650e rebuild

[jdub6092]

Decided to farm out engine work. Having the cylinders honed, rings fitted and head surfaces decked.
I already had three valve cover bolts that were absolutely welded to the threads and had to get help with that.
Will also be getting all but crank bead blasted which will save a ton of additional prep time for painting.
I've already made enough mistakes with this rebuild due to either not knowing or paying enough attention to fine details. Thankfully, Ive been able to correct all screwups so far. Not willing to risk it on my powerplant though.
Maybe next time.
Project is really starting to take shape. Pics coming soon.

[Lorenzo]

Perfect, that's the color

[jdub6092]

Bias play tires are a no go for home enthusiast (IMO)
Have you considered filleting in black the outward facing part of the rim or more subtly the inner vertical one?

I was previously able to get the rear tire bead to seat after a second inflation with the core installed, so I thought the front would be a piece of cake. Ha. If there is a next time, I would have an air fitting that pushes air with the core removed and then not be too afraid to over-inflate the tube one time to get the bead to seat. But you are probably right to skip the hassle and let professionals with the right equipment do the job and be done with it.

Im shooting for a stock restoration as much as possible, so I would plan to just re-paint the inner rim in a dark grey. I think the paint is named dark metal cast gray.
The decision to do this and additional fine detailing rests on how well the bike runs.

[Lorenzo]

but could not get the bead to seat on my new Dunlop tire. After weeks of trying every method I could find and eventually pinching the tube, i took it to my local m/c shop. Was in and out in 5 minutes. I didnt go past 50 psi, but they did and that did the trick.

20240428_124600.jpg

Bias play tires are a no go for home enthusiast (IMO)
Have you considered filleting in black the outward facing part of the rim or more subtly the inner vertical one?

[jdub6092]

What is keeping me from progressing on the engine is four valve cover bolts that broke off and were absolutely fused into the threads. Tried everything short of welding.
Tried reverse drill on one and trashed the whole socket which is now out of shape.
Got a quote from a shop. The guy didn't sound very enthusiastic, but said he could get it done. I also got a quote for decking the head surfaces.

20240428_132547.jpg Here are two of them.

[jdub6092]

I do have the main fuse cover. Just to illustrate the obsession I've developed, I wanted to show that I cleaned and polished the inside as well (including the back side which I will never see again).

20240428_130620.jpg

[jdub6092]

As I go along, I'm noticing some OCD tendencies. Can't move forward until every piece of hardware is cleaned and polished.
Here is what I accomplished this morning - getting the airbox built up.

20240428_125754.jpg

Anyone know how to re- rubberized the clamps. Notice how the integrated cable clamps got crusty from the powder coat baking.

[jdub6092]

Been awhile since I posted.

The further I get along in this rebuild process, I keep finding more that needs to be done.
My engine is still torn apart, but at least got the crank cleaned up and ready for paint and new clutch plates installed.
Thanks to my $20 HF torque wrench, I overtightened the hub pressure plate and broke two bolts. Thankfully, I was able to draw them out with reverse drill bits and after using a thread chaser, found that no further damage was done to the threads. After my 5th order to Partzilla for clutch plate screws and other items and purchase of an electronic torque sensor added to my torque wrench, I got the clutch plate properly installed.
Also had to add a helicoil insert to a stripped fork drain hole. Worked out well. Forks rebuild done.
Installed bearings on the front wheel, but could not get the bead to seat on my new Dunlop tire. After weeks of trying every method I could find and eventually pinching the tube, i took it to my local m/c shop. Was in and out in 5 minutes. I didnt go past 50 psi, but they did and that did the trick.

20240428_124600.jpg

[jdub6092]

Got my parts back from powder coat. Pretty happy with the way they turned out. It was overcast, so this photo doesn't quite bring out the gloss. It will definitely pop once I get it built back up.

20240611_161315.jpg

[jdub6092]

I see there have been previous conversations about this piston/cup set and it doesn't look so good. I could probably get away with just finding a dust boot. The front brakes were strong. The rear was soft, but I was able to find a rebuild kit for that. Otherwise, it looks like I'll need a new MC. Any suggestions for one that would keep this close to stock?

[jdub6092]

filedata/fetch?id=1742301&d=1710522279&type=thumb This is what I'm hoping might be a candidate: Suzuki PN 59600-45860

[jdub6092]

filedata/fetch?id=1742299&d=1710522549&type=thumb They do show up for me, but I'll try again.
This is what I currently have: Suzuki PN 59600-49811

[Rich82GS750TZ]

anyone else not seeing pics in posts # 35, 36? or is it just me?

[jdub6092]

Got my frame and other black parts back from the powder coated. Decided to go with 80+ gloss. I think it was a good compromise. Will post pics this weekend.

Was able to rebuild one fork and it looks to be holding oil quite well. The other has a stripped drain bolt and hole threads. Purchasing a helicoil kit to fix this. Is this the best option?

Replaced steering stem bearings, but not real happy with how tight it feels with stem bolt just beyond finger tight.
Also broke a flange on the cam chain tensioner.
One step forward, three back.

[jdub6092]

Here is the potential replacement?