Jdub goes there 1981 650e rebuild

[DomsKat550]

When waiting for parts or other engine building delays, I'm trying to keep busy polishing parts, touching up emblems, etc.
Not sure I like the chromish appearance of the case covers. Any tips for making them look more stock in appearance? 20240810_083304.jpg

You probably figured out how to make the highly polished aluminum look more stock, but I hit the faces with horizontal 1,500 grit wet, then sides with vertical sanding.

[jdub6092]

Thanks for the tip Dom.
I was amazed at what a fine wire wheel and some polish and buffing could do a dull piece of dull aluminum.
Ill give it a shot.

[jdub6092]

Some good things have come from my head dilemma.
First I realized that the manual was correct as far as the cam chain links. It actually is 19 link spacing even though the intake cam sprocket arrow does not point straight up. Every bike I researched from the era, including the 650g and gl that share the same head, but different number of sprocket teeth, had 20 link spacing.
Found this confirmed in a thread from 15 years ago from a member in NZ who did a 550 to 650 engine conversion.

I also learned a trick (common knowledge to a mechanic or vet) on how to get the exhaust cam #1 sprocket arrow lined up flush to the gasket surface at TDC. Just start with the sprocket one link turn down and when the cam caps are torqued down, the arrow ends up perfectly flush. It may also be due to my camshaft journals not resting flush on the bearings in that position, which may also may be a result of my shims being too large.

Speaking of shims, I ordered a dozen from Z1 to cover the size range and quantity that I expect to be needed. At $5.25/shim it was economical to get the job done in one session and end up with several spare shims.

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[jdub6092]

I'm getting close to firing this thing up for the first time in over a year. Made the bonehead mistake of installing the carbs and airbox without installing the fuel and vent lines first This was one of the most difficult jobs that I previously did due to the tight spacing. However, using a little silicone lube and a heat gun, it was surprisingly not too difficult. Then I noticed that the fuel line that I had purchased was the reinforced braided type and rather stiff making it really difficult to bend and add a filter. I got some more flexible hose and now I'm trying to figure out if the lines should be routed inside or outside of the carb rail before reinstalling the carbs.
Went to Bikecliff's "Where do these hoses go" article, but the pics are not available. Other searches showed several variations.
In the end, it probably doesn't matter, but what is the proper or best way to route these lines? This is what I've pieced together.
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