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Spent some time in the "man-cave" - From Wreck to Restoration
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Cliff- I'm curious about your choice of canola oil spray, was it just handy? I've thought of using Pam or such to lube the chains in a roto-tiller transmission I'm (unfortunately) rebuilding (real tar-baby ugliness- taken WAY too much time), because I had to wash down the whole thing to get rid broken gear teeth and other metal debris, and you have to use food-grade products to lube the thing. ANYWAY-I've always used silicone spray for rubber-to-metal, or plastic-to-rubber, etc., contacts, like manifolds or carb intake tubes, etc. Thanks for your great pix, by the way.sigpicSome of the totally committed probably should be.
'58 + '63 Vespa 150's' (London, GB/RI, US)
'67 X6 T20 ('67 Long Beach, Ca.- misty-eyed)
'71 Kaw. A1-ugh ('71 SF, CA- worked @ Kaw dlr)
'66 Yam. YL1('72 SF-commuter beater)
'73 Kaw. S2A-2Xugh ('73 SF-still parts slave)
'78 GS 750C ('77 SF-old faithful-killed by son)
'81 KZ 750E ('81 SF-back to Kaw. dlr)
'81 GS 650G ('08 back to NE&ME- (project)
'82 GS '82 (2) GS650GZ, L, Middlebury, G current
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BassCliff
New Paint Pictures!
Hi,
Yes, Mr. recycled64, using the cooking spray to lube the bushings in was just a goofy idea I had. It worked. Silicone spray would probably be better but I didn't have any.
Anyway, I got a call from the paint shop this morning and I picked up my body parts. I think they look great...
I didn't get a picture of the front fender but it looks great too. I was told to wait a few days before bolting this stuff on because the clear coat needs to set and get a little harder.
Just for grins and giggles, here's a shot of my wrecked tank...
And this is what I've been using to put Jessie back together...
I have a meager selection of tools sitting on an impromptu workbench. It gets the job done. At least I have a real toolbox now. You can see it in the background here...
I used to keep all my tools in that briefcase under my toolbox. But then Ray would tease me. Now the briefcase holds electrical stuff, crimpers, connectors, wire, tape, various Loctite potions, etc.
OK, time to rebuild a couple of calipers. Thanks for looking. I'm one step closer to riding again.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliffLast edited by Guest; 02-20-2010, 01:25 AM.
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DanTheMan
Lookin' good, Cliff. As usual on mine, I'll just have time for the necessary stuff, fork seals, valve shims and carbs, possibly a larger tank (see how that works out), and I'll be back on the road in April when this sub zero weather and slick icy snowy stuff goes away.
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67fire
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julien
Mr BassCliff,
I have been away for a few months from the GS Resource website... I am sorry to hear that you had an accident. I really love looking at pics of your bike... so clean...
I am happy to see that you are doing better and getting her back together. I like the new colors and, I must say, am a little jealous (smile)
I wish you luck...
Be safe.
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BassCliff
Thanks guys!
I ran into a little hitch yesterday when I started rebuilding the front calipers. I took apart the right caliper and couldn't get the piston out. It's stuck really good. So it looks like I'm going to have to take the brake hose off the rear caliper, hook up the front caliper, and use it to force out the piston. I have a feeling I'll have to do this with both front calipers. Oh well, I'm sure I should replace the brake fluid in the rear brake system anyway.
But as soon as I get the brakes sorted out I'll be able to bolt everything back together, add the finishing touches, and get back on two wheels again. With my busy schedule I'm looking at a couple more weeks perhaps. Wish me luck.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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67fire
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Seperate the calipers (pistons) and use air. I used a stupid cigarette lighter pump and that got them out. They do blow so be careful. Aim away from the body.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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BassCliff
Originally posted by chef1366 View PostSeperate the calipers (pistons) and use air. I used a stupid cigarette lighter pump and that got them out. They do blow so be careful. Aim away from the body.
Yes, I thought of this but all I have is a bicycle pump.
I might be able to take them to my buddy who works in the garage at work and borrow the air compressor there. That would be a lot easier than using the rear brake system. Disconnecting, reconnecting, bleeding, pumping, pop out the piston, repeat...
Should I use some kind of silicone spray lube on the caliper axles? The axle that has the rubber sleeve on it doesn't move in and out very well at all. I actually used a little dab of my Moly 60 paste when reassembling them but I'm not sure if that's the best stuff to use.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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jwhelan65
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jwhelan65
Originally posted by BassCliff View PostThanks guys!
I ran into a little hitch yesterday when I started rebuilding the front calipers. I took apart the right caliper and couldn't get the piston out. It's stuck really good. So it looks like I'm going to have to take the brake hose off the rear caliper, hook up the front caliper, and use it to force out the piston. I have a feeling I'll have to do this with both front calipers. Oh well, I'm sure I should replace the brake fluid in the rear brake system anyway.
But as soon as I get the brakes sorted out I'll be able to bolt everything back together, add the finishing touches, and get back on two wheels again. With my busy schedule I'm looking at a couple more weeks perhaps. Wish me luck.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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Silicone lubricant will be good on those rubber boots.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Originally posted by chef1366 View PostSilicone lubricant will be good on those rubber boots.
I agree use brake fluid.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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BassCliff
Hi,
So on #9 and #10, is it silicone or brake fluid as the lubricant?
I know Suzuki has their own caliper axle grease for these parts, Part# 99000-25100. Thanks for sharing your experience guys.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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