My 750L build thread

[Theo]

like the progress, but I get stuck on the sprung seat, kind of weird on a sprung bike. just my opinion.

here a couple to ponder

Thanks man. Yeah I know, sprung seat for hardtails and solid mount seats for sprung frames. Or do you just think it doesn't look good. I did some mock ups and photochopping, and it looks really good with both. I'm gonna finish making this seat pan but nothing is written in stone yet. I might still decide to make a low profile bench seat.

[Theo]

l
here a couple to ponder

Damn it Richharr! Now I'm second guessing myself. I do like the look of a rigid seat and that second bike is sweet. I've seen that bike before but didn't realize how good it is. I'm going to have to think about this some more. Decisions...

[po-boy]

I agree on the comment bout the seat. Solo pans just dont look right w/o the lines of a hardtail frame. I struggled w/ the same issue and this is draft 1 of what I'll end up doin on mine.These GS bike were not made to be simply chopped like some of their Japanese cousins, ask me how I know...

[Theo]

Well some progress. I finally finished making my handlebar switch housings. It took me a while but I was finally able to figure it out.

I started with a couple extra handlebar clamps I had laying around and polished them up


I then got some 10mm x 1.5mm banjo bolts and drilled a hole all the way through the head



I then tapped the handlebar clamp to accept the banjo bolt threads and threw in a couple of switches.



And a dry fit on the handlebar


I still have to glue the switches in place and make a bottom part to make it an actual clamp, but that will be the easiest part. For the bottom part of the clamp I'm going to use some metal strap. But that might look a little sloppy so if I can find some suitably sized aluminum, I'll make it out of that. Now that I have a proof of concept I'm gonna get some more banjo bolts and make the switches for the other side.

[Macguyver]

Which switch is which?

Those switches look killer Theo!
Now you have me second guessing my plan to use aircraft switches on my bike!
Are you going to keep the switches naked, or are you going to put a weatherproof boot over them?

Loving the build man, great job so far!

[Theo]

Those switches look killer Theo!
Now you have me second guessing my plan to use aircraft switches on my bike!
Are you going to keep the switches naked, or are you going to put a weatherproof boot over them?

Loving the build man, great job so far!

Thanks man. Regarding the switches, I will be dressing them up. You can see one of the boots in a couple of the pictures. Also for the bottom part of the clamp, I have a couple more handlebar clamps laying around so I think I'll make that the bottom part. I think that will look way better than metal strap. I will need to get longer bolts though but this time I'll get some regular bolts to keep the costs down.
-Theo

[Theo]

Just a mini update. The bike is still looking the same as it did more or less. I've been hacksaw happy the past couple of weeks cutting off all the various mounting tabs that I won't be using. And I've gotten pretty decent with a file and you could never tell there was supposed to be something on the frame.

It's getting down to the wire, or well the deadline that I set for myself, April 1st to be exact, and I'm feeling quite anxious and unsure if I can do it. The few things that are holding me back are things that I have no experience in and would involve me learning new skill sets. I have no problem with that, but it just takes time.

After Richharr's suggestion, I tried some things out and I have to say he is right. What I'm going to do now is make a loop that attaches to where the seat rails are cut off right now. It should look something like this:


And then I'm going to make a low profile UN-sprung seat. It's gonna look good.

I want to get a longer rear fender and haven't decided if I should buy one or try making one out of fiberglass. I like the fiberglass idea because I'll be able to shave some weight but have never worked with it and I'm not sure how difficult making a fender would be. I'm gonna see how my experience with making a seat pan goes and decide from there. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions regarding this. Any suggestions on a mold? I'm thinking maybe I would use the rear tire. Maybe use the stock rear fender and do half (since the fender is so short) and have a lot of overhang, let it dry, then flip the fender and finish up. Or carve something out of foam. Or maybe I'll just buy something off of ebay that I like.

Also, since I won't be using side covers I didn't want to have the rear master cylinder on proud display so had to come up with a way to move it. After seeing a picture of a remote setup that is cable actuated, I was able to make one, and to my surprise it works. Here is the one I copied (mine doesn't look nearly as nice, but it's going to be hidden so it doesn't matter):


I also finished my switches. I used another handlebar clamp for the bottom part and a longer bolt. It looks and works a treat. No pictures to post right now. I'll try to get some up later tonight.
-Theo

[midnightcafe]

a trick some guys do, and it looks like it in the photo, is to take the stock buckhorn bars and cut/bend them to shape and use that as the loop.

[Theo]

a trick some guys do, and it looks like it in the photo, is to take the stock buckhorn bars and cut/bend them to shape and use that as the loop.

That's a really clever idea. Too bad I threw the ones that came with my bike out . In my defense they were all bent up and useless. I do have some from a bicycle however. I'll have to check those out when I get home. Thanks for the idea.

[midnightcafe]

you should really consider signing up to www.dotheton.com, they're great for cafe racers, choppers/bobbers, and the like. It covers all japanese motorcycles so there's a larger pool of knowledge to learn from.

[Theo]

you should really consider signing up to www.dotheton.com, they're great for cafe racers, choppers/bobbers, and the like. It covers all japanese motorcycles so there's a larger pool of knowledge to learn from.

Thanks man. I've seen that site before but it kind of slipped my mind. I'll definitely bookmark this time around.

[Macguyver]

Make sure you get your daily dose of fiber-glass.

Hey Theo!

If you want to use the rear tire as a mold for the new fender, all that you need to do is to buff-up the dimensions of the tire a bit.
I have covered a tire with a few low-pill towels to increase the overall dimensions by about 3/8", and then covered that with plastic wrap. I then coated that with a couple layers of fiberglass, laid in a metal reinforcement with the mounting nuts welded onto it, fiberglassed another couple layers over top, smoothed out the areas around the mounting hardware with some chop, and voila, new fender.

Once cured, I trimmed trimmed the fiberglass to final dimensions, then used some 80 grit to take down the big chunky stuff, 120 to get the middle stuff, then 240 to even out the surface, and 320 for final prep before priming.

Worked nice. Very tight, clean looking fender. Be ready to do a fair bit of sanding though, fiberglass won't self-level very well, so to get that smooth look, you have to sand it down.

As with anything, prep is key. Make sure to put a drop cloth under the tire, and cover up everything you don't want to have fiberglass on.
Pre-cut the fiberglass pieces to save valuable activated resin time.

I would say to never do fiberglass work indoors, unless in a properly and adequately ventilated area. The fumes can get strong enough in an enclosed space that they will knock you out, and no one needs that!

I am sure whichever way you go with it, it will turn out quite well indeed, just like the rest of what you have showcased here.

Keep up the good work, and remember our picture addiction!

BTW, I too really like the idea of the framerail grab bar. Should look sweeeet!

[kerrfunk]

This is a really cool thread. I don't know a thing about any of it, but this is cool.

[Theo]

Hey Theo!

If you want to use the rear tire as a mold for the new fender, all that you need to do is to buff-up the dimensions of the tire a bit.
...
I would say to never do fiberglass work indoors, unless in a properly and adequately ventilated area. The fumes can get strong enough in an enclosed space that they will knock you out, and no one needs that!

I am sure whichever way you go with it, it will turn out quite well indeed, just like the rest of what you have showcased here.

Thanks for the info and the kind words. I definitely will not do this inside. The weather is starting to get warm here so I'll be able to start working outside soon. One question though. When you say lay in a metal reinforcement, what exactly do you mean? I was thinking of getting some flat stock, bend it to shape and run it down middle of the fender.

This is a really cool thread. I don't know a thing about any of it, but this is cool.

Haha. Thanks.

you should really consider signing up to www.dotheton.com, they're great for cafe racers, choppers/bobbers, and the like. It covers all japanese motorcycles so there's a larger pool of knowledge to learn from.

I've been using the search function on that site and there is a lot of really good information. I'm going to have to sit down and do some reading. Thanks.

Well as promised, pictures.

My remote rear master cylinder



The finished swtiches



And the frame post with the various tabs and stuff removed



That's all for now.
-Theo

[Macguyver]

One question though. When you say lay in a metal reinforcement, what exactly do you mean? I was thinking of getting some flat stock, bend it to shape and run it down middle of the fender.
-Theo

Sorry for the long delay there Theo,
Laying in some reinforcement means making a fiberglass and metal sandwich, with the fiberglass as the bun, and the metal as the meat.

I would decide on the shape I wanted the fender to be, and then cut some sheet steel to the approxiamate size minus about an inch on the outside dimensions, and shape it to what you want the fender to look like. I would then take a drill and make a perforation pattern in it to allow the fiberglass to bond between the top and bottom.

The reinforcement would usually have the mounting brackets built/welded onto it so you are not flexing just the fiberglass when attaching it to the bike, and this way the fiberglass alone doesn't have to support the weight of the metal reinforcement. The metal reinforcement will also help keep the fender steady on bumpy roads. It could also be thought of as the skeleton inside the fender, keeping everything in place and at the proper angle and shape.

I tend to use thicker sheet steel, almost as thick as if your wanted to make the fender strictly out of metal. Metal repair pieces from your local auto supply will do, or you could even go to your local trailer supply store and get a replacement fender for a small trailer to cut down and shape. There are quite a few "custom" bikes out there with lightly modified trailer fenders bolted onto them. Make sure to clean and sand the surface of the metal to give it maximum physical adhesion.

Eventually I will be able to take the time and build the hugger fender for my bike, and when I do, I will post a complete write up if you can wait a while. I just got back from a training course and I will be using the rest of the week to get the rear tire/calipers/etc painted, so hopefully next week I can get to the rear fender.

Hope this helps,