very gently at first...
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1981 GS450E Rebuild
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Originally posted by pete View Post
very gently at first...
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Originally posted by Hoosier Daddy View PostI read here that mine should just pull straight off, but it didn't budge, for the life of me didn't want to pull any harder. I was skepticle to hold the shaft with pliers and twist the knob in case it really did have a flat locator on the shaft and was supposed to pull off.
Never have figured it out.
Yours with the hole in the center, I'd be looking really close for a screw.
If there's a screw in that hole I'm screwed... haha
I have no screwdriver that's thin enough as well as long enough to reach the bottom of that hole.
It was full of dirt which I scraped out, but that hole goes way down...
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Guest repliedI read here that mine should just pull straight off, but it didn't budge, for the life of me didn't want to pull any harder. I was skepticle to hold the shaft with pliers and twist the knob in case it really did have a flat locator on the shaft and was supposed to pull off.
Never have figured it out.
Yours with the hole in the center, I'd be looking really close for a screw.
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Both bezels are off:
However I can't for the life of me work out how the trip meter reset knob comes off!
Searching says three options:
- Yank it off, press fit
- Screw it off, left hand thread
- There's a philips head screw holding it on
I've tried the first two and can't see a screw anywhere and none are working... any clues? I'll pop a thread in one of the tech. forums in a sec...
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Ok, so these are the two lubes I picked up yesterday, and the 3 in 1 is what's in the freshly cleaned cables now, with the silicone one reserved for the gauges:
Hopefully it's the right stuff...
So tonight I had to do the horrid thing and rip the instrument cluster apart again. I really don't want to and risk breaking something and having her off the road again so soon, but they're no good the way they are... really should've done it when I did the gauge LED's... anyway... all apart...
The back of them is decidedly disgusting:
I'm not cutting the gauges, I'm prying the bezels off instead. I don't have a drill press to hold a cutoff wheel to be accurate with the cutting, so that's too scary an option...
I had trouble getting started with prying the bezel, so I grabbed some wire cutters and cut into the bezel to give me a starting point:
Levered my way around with a small flat blade screwdriver:
And after taking a while being careful and getting enough clearance to slip the screwdriver down the side of the plastic housing, I was able to lever the bezel off finally:
Didn't make too much of a mess of them:
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Originally posted by cowboyup3371 View PostPlease let us know how well that iPhone app does as I might want to check it out as well.
Thanks.
If I can manage to get myself a tank bag (Chrissy time budget restrictions in place) then I'll give it a go and report back.
Originally posted by rustybronco View PostYeh, don't... cut them apart, clean and lube them properly.
Originally posted by Matchless View PostPete,
As Dale says! You would land up with diluted oil and dirt on the inside of the face and glass I think.
Just bend the folded lip up with a screwdriver and get the glass out then the rest will follow. Use Benzine if you can get it.
Uploading pic's at the moment... and have a question...
Originally posted by Suzuki_Don View PostYOU CAN AFFORD AN IPHONE -- C'mon Pete, people restoring "old" Suzukis are supposed to be dead broke. Not able to afford the latest gizmos like that.
Bike must be running reasonably ok if you've done the initial 60km with no stalling, carb mixture issues. Hope it keeps running well for you. It took me nearly 12 months to really sort my carbs out properly. But I am happy with them now.
keep the posts coming.
I have to have mobile access to email and it's more cost effective than a crapberry, so that's what we get
My personal mobile's on the cheapest plan I can get onto... hahaha
I am fouling the left plug at idle which I noticed especially yesterday when sitting at traffic lights, so I ordered a #20 pilot today which should be here tomorrow and that should hopefully take care of that.
Aside from that, I'm really happy with how well she's running considering I've done some total guess adjustments and no plug chops as yet...
I really want to spend the effort getting them dialled in as good as I can though and I reckon she's lean on the needle going by the subtle popping I get during deceleration at times.
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by pete View PostI need to get a tank bag so I can stick my iPhone in it with the speedometer app running and see what speed that tells me.
Bike must be running reasonably ok if you've done the initial 60km with no stalling, carb mixture issues. Hope it keeps running well for you. It took me nearly 12 months to really sort my carbs out properly. But I am happy with them now.
keep the posts coming.
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Guest repliedPete,
As Dale says! You would land up with diluted oil and dirt on the inside of the face and glass I think.
Just bend the folded lip up with a screwdriver and get the glass out then the rest will follow. Use Benzine if you can get it.
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Originally posted by pete View PostThe speedo and tacho still don't seem quite right.
I've also seen someone on here effectively was the insides of the speedo and tacho by putting some mineral spirits in via the cable mount while upside down, shake them all around, and let them sit upright to drain the fluid.
I'm thinking of giving this a go with some metho to see if that helps.
Any thoughts on this?
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Please let us know how well that iPhone app does as I might want to check it out as well.
Thanks.
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Forgot to update this last night... did a bit over 60km's 'round town yesterday after taking my wife for her second interview (she got the job). I was in search of a pilot jet locally (no luck) and had to go visit my dad.
Anyway, everything still seems ok and the only single drip on the floor last night seems to have come from the chain. Just to be clear... I cleaned the packing grease off it and lubed it, then after washing it I lubed it again, so I think I have over-lubed it, but at this stage I'll just keep an eye on things until I get to the 1000km mark where I'll do the valves and head nut torque etc. again along with another oil and filter change. Then I'll go back to my 5000km services
The speedo and tacho still don't seem quite right. The tacho still got a little bit of a bounce every now and then and the speedo just seems to stick a bit around the 60km/h mark. Sometimes it seems to increase normally with the speed, sometimes it seems to stick, then pop up, and sometimes it will creep up slowly, then pop up when I slow down...
I need to get a tank bag so I can stick my iPhone in it with the speedometer app running and see what speed that tells me.
I've also seen someone on here effectively was the insides of the speedo and tacho by putting some mineral spirits in via the cable mount while upside down, shake them all around, and let them sit upright to drain the fluid.
I'm thinking of giving this a go with some metho to see if that helps.
Oh, and the cables have been lubed with 3 in 1 yesterday so I'll pop a bit more of that in each one, and I got some silicone based lube so if I need to I can give the gauges a squirt with that.
Any thoughts on this?
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Originally posted by john82q View PostPete,
Enjoyed today , will go again when weve got more time to go further, and out of the traffic too.
Just to be clear when we were talking about silicone lube, I meant the speedo its self, not the cables, for the cables just use a light grease or a heavy oil.
And dont worry about the speedo till you know its the problem...
Cheers John
And got ya on the lube, yeah we were talking about the speedo itself...
Now that you mention it I'm sure I've seen someone mention this in relation to lubing cables:
I couldn't see anything else in the garage last night while I was hunting around for silicone based stuff...
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