1981 GS450E Rebuild

[pete]

For me, the transmission is just confusing, not too scary, trying to work out what gears where mean neutral, then 1st, 2nd, 3rd, etc. Once I have that sorted it should be fine.

The scary work for me is going to be the head, getting the valves adjusted right and making sure the timing's spot on.

That pic sure looks cold to me!!! It's getting to the point here where I'm sweating late at night working on the bike in the garage there, so might need to sort a fan for there soon as it's not even summer yet!

Oh, and it's just started raining here too...

[pete]

More done tonight, transmission is in! A lot easier than I thought it would be as I figured I was gonna get quite confused trying to find neutral, but turns out they make it real easy for ya'. Thanks Mr Suzuki Engineer dudes

So, counter shaft in first:



Cleaned up drive shaft ready to roll, forgot to get one just of the counter shaft before it went in:



And counter shaft in:



I found as long as you follow the manual closely with where it says to have the shift forks sitting for the installation, the shafts and gears pretty much line themselves up with the shift forks and they slot in very easily.

Fortunately, the engineer dude who designed this put a neutral indicator on the end of the shifting drum, which I found by mistake. Probably the only thing the manual doesn't mention in regards to putting the transmission back together.

So this is neutral:



First:



Second:



I must say, it's pretty cool spinning the counter shaft while flipping through the gears by rotating the shifting drum and watching the speed difference on the drive shaft. It's very easy to tell the difference in gear ratios as you change up and down. And of course this is a compulsory part of assembly... they tell you to make sure gear changes are smooth and correct before putting on the lower crank case. They just don't mention how much fun it can be for a noob!

So, that got it to here:



Next is the rear cam chain guide, and man, what a pain!

[pete]

Gave it a good ol' clean up as well as the little rubber stoppers that help it stay seated:



Then I hit trouble.

They say to install it as this point, but unfortunately it's too wide to slide down the cam chain tunnel between the crank shaft and the crank case at that point.

There was no easy way to lift the crank shaft slightly and get it through either, as the cam chain tunnel only really opened wide enough between the crank shaft and counter balance shaft, so I had to remove them again to get the cam chain guide in.

It's hard to show you what I mean, but this is the closest I could get to displaying it:



Anyway, in it went with the rubber stoppers:



And that leaves us here:



So next I'm going back to the manual to double check I haven't missed anything yet, although I suspect I may have neglected to order a replacement clutch push rod oil seal, although I have noted the part number down in my list of parts, so maybe I did order it... hmmm... I shall have to go through my bits and pieces.

I'll have a further once over the transmission and crank shaft and counter balancer shaft to make sure I've get everything in there that belongs in there, then I can pop the bottom crank case on.

Then it will be a matter of waiting for the cylinders to return from being blasted and for the rings to turn up from Boulevard Suzuki. In the meantime I'll start cleaning the carbon off the pistons and give them a good clean up ready to roll.

[Ricko19]

excellent job Pete! Its not something I'd dare tackle - to say it was confusing to me (even with pics!) is an understatement!

Hope the rest of the stuff arrives quick for ya mate

[pete]

Cheers Ricko. The rings will take a couple of weeks minimum, so I'll just have to be patient for them, but I should have the cylinders and head back by the end of next week.

I just worked out the seal I haven't bought a replacement for, and it's actually the gear shift shaft oil seal, I did get a replacement one for the clutch push rod.

Only catch with it is the manual doesn't tell you how to inspect it or replace it, so I'll pop a thread into the engine/gearbox forum now.

I'm imagining it's worthwhile replacing it while I have everything apart as it looks like it would be a PITA if I tried it with the crank cases together.

[pete]

Actually I'm not posting anything, search answered already, and I will get a replacement seal. More waiting...

[Flaming Chainsaws]

What the heck Flaming Chainsaws was doing riding in this I don't know.

Well... That morning there was no snow at all and the bike is my only transportation. Three hours later the streets were filled with snow. I had to get home somehow and I couldn't just leave the bike stuck in the parking lot for the whole Thanksgiving week. If I left the bike there, the parking lot would have been locked exposed to snow and it would have gotten towed. My school has a very strict policy; No parking after 3 PM. So I took the risk . And no, it wasn't cold at all.

Your making some good progress, Pete. I wanna see it all together, especially the blacked out motor. I have the same plans .

[pete]

Well that was just too easy today.

Called my local dealer... looking for this oil seal. Yes, we have three in stock for $9.99. I'm lying on the floor in shock. In stock and not expensive.

So I rock up, and while I'm here can you check for the piston circlips as well? Yep, have them in stock too, $2.30 each. Almost on the floor again, but that would be embarrassing in the store.

So, end result is I don't have to wait



Shifting shaft oil seal in the bag, four piston circlips (for mounting on rods) stuck to the outside.

Next stop when I'm a little more sober (few beers and sparkling white and red today) will be getting the bottom crank case ready to roll and popped onto the top crank case. Can't wait...

[SVSooke]

Lucky you,it happens.Not very often but it does.
FC ; I was not very serious in that post.Been following your thread to,I know your situation.Been bike only to,most of the year it`s not that bad.When it sucks it tends to suck real bad.

[pete]

I remember years when I was bike only too actually, although no snow here.

At the time I was taking a temporary deviation from my normal career to drive a taxi, so riding home at 4am in rain in the middle of winter after a 12 hour shift wasn't terribly fun.

On the other hand, I really miss having to go everywhere on two wheels because that was my only transport. Forced me into having an enjoyable trip nearly every time (except of course the rain in winter above)

[pete]

Did a little bit tonight but not much. I have a couple of threads in the twin cylinder forum I need some answers on before I go much further. Don't want to put the crankcases together only to find I've sealed the bearings to the cases and haven't replaced two O rings...

Anyways, first up I committed a bit of a tidiness as the work bench was getting a little cluttered and I needed some more room.



Much better!

Time to replace that old shift shaft oil seal as it's looking a little dodgy and there was definitely some crud in that area when I dismantled the engine originally:



Glad I did! See what was hiding behind there? I'm sure it's not a big deal but best to get rid of that now while it's apart than have to take it down again later to replace it:



Gave the lower crankcase a good run through with kero to make sure it's all cleaned up ready to roll:



And got the new shift shaft oil seal in as well:



So, hopefully I get some answers to my other threads real soon and I can get those O rings replaced, then get the crankcases together.

Once that's done I'm a rockin' and a rollin' baby...

[KC1908]

Pete,

Haven't done a 450 but heaps of EFEs(GS1150) and there is an o ring between the two cases for the oil passage and one at the bottom of the bottom case between the case and the sump. Should be a recess there for it to fit in if it is the same as the 1100 and 1150. Good luck.

Ken

[pete]

Cheers Ken, are you talking about number 19 in the diagram below?



If so, does't work for the 450 unfortunately. This is the fiche in my other thread, number 20 is what I'm trying to find to replace:



The O rings are something like 3 or 4mm diameter, so very tiny.

[pete]

Completely forgot I hadn't put links to my other technical threads here:

O Rings question:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=168690

Crankcase sealant question:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=168689

Right... so... I made some progress again last night

First thing I did was go back and give the upper crankcase half a double check, made sure everything still spins freely, and put a little engine oil on the transmission gears.

Then, made sure the lower crankcase was still all clean then put in the cleaned up bearing inserts:



Then, after getting some advice from Ed (Nessism), I used a small paint brush to get the sealant around the lower crankcase as thin as I could while still enough to seal the oil in there. I also used a tip from Don (Suzuki_Don) and referred to a Kawasaki diagram he put in my other thread to make sure I was covering the right surfaces. I was pretty sure I knew what to do as far as that was concerned, but it's always good to double check, and I mainly was concerned about getting the sealant too close to the crankshaft and counter balance shaft bearings.

I also put another thin film of moly lube on the bearing inserts.

So, sealant on:



Next up was the big moment... getting the lower crankcase on. It needed some light persuasion with a rubber mallet to start with, then I must admit to doing the "wrong" thing and using four of the bolts to pull it down properly as the mallet was making too much noise for late at night. I did at least make sure nothing was binding before doing that though.

Together at last:



And the most tedious part of all, getting all the bolts in and torqued up in the right order. I also whacked some blue Permatex thread locker on to make sure they won't come out in a hurry:



Then I got the screen on, once again with thread locker on the screws:



And finally, started making sure the sump cover was all ready to go, but ran out of time before being able to get it on. I still need to finish getting the old gasket remnants off, then it's right to go:



All in all I'm pretty happy with that, and I did also go back and double check the crank and counter balance shafts spin like they should and I can change easily through all gears too, so looking good!

I did get some sealant squeezing out the sides so I'll need to go back and clean that up too.

Unfortunately you can see my crap paint job showing up on these pic's too, but thankfully it's the bit noone should see... when painting with high temperature paint, make sure your prep work is good, then do it again, otherwise you too will end up with a result like this...

[pete]

Didn't think I'd get an update in this morning as my ISP was having some dramas, but alas they fixed it just in time...

So, sump cover and 12 cleaned up bolts ready to go:



That horrid green gasket on (yes I can see the horrored guffaws of Athena haters everywhere, and I still wish I could've found a OEM gasket set):



All buttoned up with thread locker on the bolts:



And even though they don't say to do it yet in the manual, sump plug in just in case I forget it later on when I go to fill it with oil:



Flipped over and the last crankcase bolt in, also with thread locker:



And there she sits on the work bench at last, up the right way for the first time in years:



Next up, shiny new clutch push rod oil seal and the oil seal and bearing retainers cleaned up:



And the new oil seal in place:



I drifted it in gently with a socket driver about the same size as the seal diameter as it was quite a snug fit, which of course is a good thing for an oil seal!