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Well... first of all tonight I cleaned up this little area as it should be perfect for somewhat of a little spray booth to spray the caliper and caliper bracket:
I'll just tack up one of my old plastic drop sheets around the area and it should be good to go.
In the process of cleaning that up, I found these that I'd forgotten about:
Which are for here:
Now, question is, I only have 3 out of the 4 that are supposed to be there (was like that when I bought it), so are these important and does it matter if I don't put any back on at all? The description on the parts fiche is simply "Rubber Pad", and I can't see any purpose they could serve that would be important enough for me to bother with them...
Anyway, back to the gauge lights.
These are what I'm replacing with LED's:
If you've read up on Matchless' guide, you'll see his gear position indicator has a diode or rectifier on it, whereas mine doesn't have this, so one less thing to worry about.
The good thing is that the way the gear position switch works, only one LED will ever be grounded at one time, so I can simply use one resistor for all six LED's which makes it a lot simpler.
Now, this is the existing 6th gear bulb lit exactly as it is, although note that this is night and I have two desk lamps illuminating this area, so it's not an ideal indication of how it is in daylight:
Then we have the 1500mcd LED:
Not real flash at all, too dull, and you can clearly see the outline of the LED as well.
Next up, 8000mcd:
Much better, although possibly not quite bright enough.
And the 20000mcd:
Bit hard to tell from my crappy blurry pic, but it actually doesn't end up much brighter than the 8000 and the viewing angle is much worse, so the 8000 so far is the winner.
However, it seems that Matchless may have ended up using some 13000mcd LED's and if so, that will more than likely be the ideal option as a compromise between the 8000 and 20000.
One thing also not mentioned in his LED replacement guide is the use of zener diodes. I imagine these are to protect for over voltage and reverse voltage, but I'm not 100% sure on that as it's been too many years since I've played with this stuff to remember things like that.
I'll just tack up one of my old plastic drop sheets around the area and it should be good to go.
In the process of cleaning that up, I found these that I'd forgotten about:
Which are for here:
Now, question is, I only have 3 out of the 4 that are supposed to be there (was like that when I bought it), so are these important and does it matter if I don't put any back on at all? The description on the parts fiche is simply "Rubber Pad", and I can't see any purpose they could serve that would be important enough for me to bother with them...
Anyway, back to the gauge lights.
These are what I'm replacing with LED's:
If you've read up on Matchless' guide, you'll see his gear position indicator has a diode or rectifier on it, whereas mine doesn't have this, so one less thing to worry about.
The good thing is that the way the gear position switch works, only one LED will ever be grounded at one time, so I can simply use one resistor for all six LED's which makes it a lot simpler.
Now, this is the existing 6th gear bulb lit exactly as it is, although note that this is night and I have two desk lamps illuminating this area, so it's not an ideal indication of how it is in daylight:
Then we have the 1500mcd LED:
Not real flash at all, too dull, and you can clearly see the outline of the LED as well.
Next up, 8000mcd:
Much better, although possibly not quite bright enough.
And the 20000mcd:
Bit hard to tell from my crappy blurry pic, but it actually doesn't end up much brighter than the 8000 and the viewing angle is much worse, so the 8000 so far is the winner.
However, it seems that Matchless may have ended up using some 13000mcd LED's and if so, that will more than likely be the ideal option as a compromise between the 8000 and 20000.
One thing also not mentioned in his LED replacement guide is the use of zener diodes. I imagine these are to protect for over voltage and reverse voltage, but I'm not 100% sure on that as it's been too many years since I've played with this stuff to remember things like that.
. That was when I first got my bike and was waiting for the battery. I soon found out that you have to roll on the throttle LOL!
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