81 GS550T in Co Sprgs

[cowboyup3371]

Thanks Stan. No I didn't solder the plug on just a different crimp job this time. I'll ask around for someone that might be able to fix it.

[cowboyup3371]

The weather was just warm enough to get outside for a little while today so I took advantage and now at least have a rolling bike. Started off by installing the front wheel during which I decided to just loosen the fender instead of lifting the bike - it worked much better.



However, it quickly became apparent the axle wouldn't line up correctly so after some thought I raised the forks just a little. Finally slid the axle in and tightened it down hand tight for now. Then realized the bike was extremely unsteady on the center stand without any of my jacks underneath it.






So, I realized I cannot have these forks even with the caps in the triple tree since it's pretty obvious they are much longer than 550 forks. This is where they ended up after I was done (center stand is much steadier now).



Decided I didn't want to work on the brakes today so I put the handlebars back on (still need to verify setting), cleaned off the valve cover and installed a new gasket, and then removed the oil pan. When I did my first oil change a couple of years ago, I stripped the plug. Although I put a helicoil in it, I wanted to go back to a better setup so I purchased a replacement pan from Nessism a few months back. I found it sort of funny that the oil pan was covered with fresh oil when I'd drained it months ago.

When I removed it, part of the gasket had stuck to the oil seal on the bottom of the engine. Plus, I found this lovely item in the drain pan I'd put under to catch any surprises:





I think I'll be okay but if anyone has some insight as to what that came from I'm all ears.

By about 330pm, the breeze had picked up just enough to make it very cold outside so I called it a day for now. Still have to buy a new stator (may do it this payday as Helena's mom asked she not come down yet), fix a few electrical issues, and clean the carbs since I didn't put any stabil through them before tearing the bike down.

[Flyboy]

Scott, she is looking nice, I do like the blue wheels with the polished rims,
No Idea what that little gremlin in your sump is, but if it ain't caused a problem yet, I wouldn't sweat it, I think you will be fine.
Can't wait to see her fire up again.

[7981GS]

What did you change?
The rear shocks?
How was it together BEFORE you took it apart?
Had you even had it on the center-stand before?

Daniel

[tkent02]

Is this thing steel, aluminum or some kind of alloy?

[cowboyup3371]

What did you change?
The rear shocks?
How was it together BEFORE you took it apart?
Had you even had it on the center-stand before?

Daniel

No nothing has been changed; the rear shocks are the same length as previously on there although a lot newer.

It was this high before I started.

Yes I have had it on the center stand quite frequently.

The previous owner had put 1979 GS 750 EC forks on this bike for some reason. I know this thanks to a check I did LAST YEAR for the brake setup (81 550T only had single front brake, and the fork caps and spring setup corresponds to the 79). It was this high before but I hadn't marked the forks before removing them as I'd forgotten until after they were off.

[cowboyup3371]

I'm a stupid moron

Is this thing steel, aluminum or some kind of alloy?

I got to looking at screws and pieces in my stator cover last night and thought something didn't look right with the tall bracket that sits vertically but couldn't put my finger on it. Then, just as I walked into the office this morning (literally just as I walked through the door), I thought that piece might be from one of the brackets in the stator area and I should check the parts fiche.

Sure enough:

The piece that broke off is from number 10 here at the bottom where it bends out at a right angle from the remainder of the bracket. I know what caused it (my stupidity) and can now say I can't touch anything without breaking something .

I'm not sure if it's totally necessary for that bracket to be complete or not. Either way, I'll fix it right.

[Redneck]

If you want I can see if I still have mine on the spare motor. They look like the same piece if you look at my fiche.

Paul

[cowboyup3371]

PM sent Paul

[cowboyup3371]

I hate this winter we are having as barely a couple of days will go by and it snows. Pretty much means I couldn't do any work outside until today but that was a little iffy at first. Fortunately, I got some done inside over the last few weeks and then today managed to install the right front brake caliper and removed the wiring harness, headlight bucket, and both clocks. My intent is to clean up the wiring again as best as possible (picked up some DeOxit Friday), replace a few connectors that either broke or melted on me, and replace the high beam light bulb that burned out on me.

Here's the old and new airbox side boots I put into my new intake (have the snorkel attachment to the breather now):





New stator from BWringer is in (thanks Brian) and I ordered the bracket on Friday. I remembered to loc-tite all the screws this time.





A picture of the left brake from a few weeks ago



And then taking more things off...wiring harness, coils, headlight, ignition switch, and clocks



Fuse block on my air box and the right handle switch. I'll replace the connector in it



Ran the wiring harness out to the shed and ripped off the old tape. I haven't cleaned it up yet but felt I should keep everything together so I threw some tie wraps on it



Here's the infamous R/R loop everyone suggests to remove. I went ahead and cut the extra wires so I just have the connection to the fuse block.



To be continued...

[cowboyup3371]

I'll also have to replace this connector as it melted somehow



And it seems the bulb for the high beam indicator burned up which is probably why I never saw it working towards the end of last year. Does anyone know what kind of bulb this is so I don't have to buy it from the local motorcycle dealer?



And the back cover to my clocks is busted. I'll probably leave it be but I'd rather replace it if possible.



So all this leads me to working on the wiring. I'll take the time to clean the gunk from the electrical tape off and replace what connectors I can. I am not as talented as some folks when it comes to creating my own boards and what not but I might try to figure out a better way of replacing that one light bulb.

I do wonder about this connection though. Is it really necessary to have two separate connectors for the lights that feed each clock? Can't I combine all four wires into one four-position blade connector - grounds in two blades and the power wires in another set?

[brslk]

The bulb looks like a standard dash light from an older car. Take it an auto parts place and I bet they can match it up.

Bruce.

[Steve]

Is it really necessary to have two separate connectors for the lights that feed each clock? Can't I combine all four wires into one four-position blade connector - grounds in two blades and the power wires in another set?

Electrically, it would make no difference.

Physically, it might.

Just how crowded was it inside your headlight bucket? Some of them are a work of engineering art to get everything in there just right, while others have PLENTY of room. If your room was a bit tight, you will find that it is easier to place two flat connectors into separate areas than it is to place a larger four-place block.

.

[cowboyup3371]

Electrically, it would make no difference.

Physically, it might.

Just how crowded was it inside your headlight bucket? Some of them are a work of engineering art to get everything in there just right, while others have PLENTY of room. If your room was a bit tight, you will find that it is easier to place two flat connectors into separate areas than it is to place a larger four-place block.

.

Actually, after really looking at the wires and thinking about this it doesn't make sense. The double barrel female connectors only have one wire each. If I connect the double male connectors into one consolidated cable, I'll still have to create some kind of a jumper on the harness side. So I'll just buy new bullet connectors for that section.

Thank you for the help Steve.

With that, I took the day off from work for a few reasons. After retaking a job interview this morning and getting some hope I might be offered the position (doubtful but I'm ), I started working on cleaning my electrical stuff again.

So I started with this: soaking my harness in warm water and Simple Green.



While that was soaking, I started off fixing some connectors. First, I finished the R/R to Stator connector by replacing the OReilly's special blade connectors.



It took me awhile to set the blades in there correctly but a couple of test fits worked out finally. Then, I replaced the kill switch connector on the switch side:



The previous owner had cut the green/yellow wire out of the connector and I just repeated it two years ago for financial sakes but with the intent on replacing it someday.

I then sat around cleaning the connectors for parts still downstairs as best I could with the DeOxit. I don't know if it did the job but I sure am hoping so.

Once that was done, I unwrapped the tape from the taillight wiring. I took the taillight off the bike because I was stupid in December and left the rear fender hanging on the wires instead of in place on the bike. I intended to work on the airbox side of the bike and wanted it out of my way. However, although I saw it hanging and knew it could break during a high wind, I never took the time to put it back into place like I should have. Wouldn't you know it, a good strong wind came up and broke the taillight and turn signal wires. However, I found out today my stupidity actually worked in my favor because I found the wires looking like this under the tape:



It seems the wires must have broken some time before I bought the bike and the PO might have tried soldering them back together. Since I prefer to have solid wires the entire length, I don't believe it is a good solid connection and want to fix it. So I tore apart the remainder of the taillight/wiring and started wondering how I get these wires out of the socket here:





Of course, then I look at the lens cover and see a broken post so I think I just might replace the entire assembly.



Once I was done with that, I ran back upstairs to start cleaning the wiring harness after it had sat for about 4 hours in the sink. Personally, I don't think the solution works that great as I still had to put some effort into getting the gunk off the wires but they look better now. Course, I realized they'll just get covered again so I'm not that worried about being too perfect about it.



I also replaced the kill switch connector on the harness side so at least I have one nice connector now.

[cowboyup3371]

And found a possibly burned connector. Anyone else think this could be contributing to some of my charred stator issues?



Finally right before the kids came home I tore apart the left handle switch. This is where I really think some of my issues were coming from as I started having problems turning on my turn signals last year. I assumed it might be getting dirty but had no clue it was going to be this bad:

Bottom of switch



Top



Contacts:



Switch itself is pretty nasty too but it's hard to see it:



I'm taking tomorrow off as well as I have another interview, this time with Virginia Tech. I'm planning on cleaning the left handle switch and maybe start attacking my carbs. That's all dependent on the winds though as we're forecasted to have over 30mph sometime tomorrow.