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1982 GS1100E dragbike
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Pretty much everything Bob said is true. The crank could go all season, it could go the first time you throw the cluth & it hooks real good. 50/50? I'd say more like 30/70 with a non welded crank & a slick. Yes on John Pearson or Stan Gardner either one for the crank work. Pearson is in Ohio & Gardner is in Maine. Whatever you do, DON'T send a crank to Falicon! I have had problems with them being dishonest in the past! Ray.
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New stuff
Got the small front wheel on it, along with a fiberglass shell instead of the stock headlight. But the big news was the cam degreeing that was done today, along with a Stage 3 dynajet kit installation and main jet change. I wont know until tomorrow how it all worked out. The motor is having a hard time cranking even with the cams reset and the timing retarded. I have one of those Dyna aluminum timing rotors in it right now. Scott said I should put the mechanical advancer back in it tomorrow, as the rotor is static at full advance. I didn't know that. I'm getting an education, and it's really helping me to appreciate what it takes to get all these parts to work together. I had no idea. If it doesn't sound right tomorrow don't be surprised if I call, Ray. So you know, I posted a better picture in a new thread 'GS1100 dragbike update'. I didn't realize that a fresh posting would put the thread back at the top of the list.
Jerry
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setback
Thanks BB (looked for your real name, couldn't find it). Anyway, setback today. I installed the stock mechanical advancer without replacing the center signaling post with the Dyna button rotor. Oops. The signaling plate came swinging around to the face of the pickups and tore them both off. Had a spare set of Dyna S pickups but the 2-3 pickup isn't working. I have a backup option...keep ya'll posted on that.
Jerry
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Bummer
Replaced the Dyna S with a spare and took it out on the road yesterday. Oh man. Scott at S & K worked some magic on those cams. The front wheel was coming off the ground in THIRD gear. That's the good news. The bummer is that as I was pulling into the driveway I started to hear a rattling sound. I shut the bike off and when I restarted it I heard a screeching sound. Before the cams got straightened out the motor would barely turn over because the cams weren't where they should be (because the head was shaved 0.035) and I also had a billet timing rotor on it that was at full advance. I was hearing this horrible clacking sound about every third revolution of the starter gears. I was tearing up the starter clutch. Anyway, it doesn't engage at all now so I have to pull the alternator rotor off. I might just leave it off and just charge the battery after every run. That's the latest.
Jerry
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motocycle shawn
OMG i don't want you at my local track! we try not to kill are self's here!
i love my bars and i don't have a big motor.. i do have a 1166 but its not all the mean.. but wheel bars are a must for any one i think.. can save your ass in a hairy moment!
Originally posted by Agemax View Postyou cant possibly have any use for wheelie bars on a bike with that much horsepower. you gotta be looking at prostock at least before you need the wheelie prevention, or better clutch control
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Originally posted by motocycle shawn View PostOMG i don't want you at my local track! we try not to kill are self's here!
i love my bars and i don't have a big motor.. i do have a 1166 but its not all the mean.. but wheel bars are a must for any one i think.. can save your ass in a hairy moment!1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!
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?
Who said anything about the launch? I said the front wheel was lifting in third gear. And I do have wheelie bars that will be on the bike soon, but only so I can go faster and be more consistent. The last two posts seem to be implying that because the bike is capable of lifting in third due to sheer acceleration that I can't control the machine. I have no idea how that conclusion was reached. At any rate, anyone who wants to know how the project is coming, cool. I won't be responding to any more of this stuff.
I ordered the puller today and hope to have the alt rotor off by Friday. I still have the starter clutch from my GS1000. Anybody know if it will work on the 1100?
Jerry
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Hey Jerry....
Everything's cool...just listen to Ray and the rest of us that actually have done this stuff...
If your class allows wheelie bars, you would be foolish not to run them...
(Still think you should just buy my bike)
Later,Bob T. ~~ Play the GSR weekly photo game: Pic of Week Game
'83 GS1100E ~ '24 Triumph Speed 400 ~ '01 TRIUMPH TT600 ~ '67 HONDA CUB
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Thanks Bob. Yeah they'll be on. I wouldn't be able to fully accelerate in first and probably in second without them. Two reasons beside the motor for the wheelieing is that the bike still has a stock wheel base and I replaced the 19' stock mag with an 18' aluminum hoop. But I gotta say, that short ride I took without them was some kinda fun!
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I just had to pull my rotor off last week. The right puller and some heat and it should pop right off. I found the 3 bolts at my local Ace hardware. They were the hardened one too! If you want to save the starter clutch, Ray has a thread that will show you how to wire the starter button so you don't put power to the coils until you get the motor spinning. I think it was Posplayer that had the pictures... My motor is a 1327 with 10.5 to 1 and it starts with just a poke of the button. Good luck and keep us informed with the progress.
Curtsigpic'85 GS1150 1428 14-1 200+hp Hang On
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Bummer about the incompatability of the 1000 and 1100 parts, but not surprised. I won't know what I need for sure until I get the rotor off. I've never seen what's back there, but from the sound it made I 'spect the problem will be obvious.
Wow...motor spinning before powering the coils. Now there's an idea. Never woulda thought of it. But now that the idea is in my head I think I can see how it would be done. I'll pm Ray about it. Thanks guys.
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