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1982 GS1100E dragbike
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Thanks BB. I pulled the rotor today and saw that the starter clutch was ok. The problem was that the kickback sheared off the three bolts holding the starter clutch to the alternator rotor. We're going to leave the rotor off, along with the alternator, and charge the battery between rounds. Heard that'll make it a little easier for the bike to start, spool up a bit faster, and (maybe) make it a bit less likely that the crank will twist.
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are you going to use a remote starter and leave the stuff off the crank all together?
i have a couple rotors thats shaved already(magnet removed) if your going to still push button start it.
i'll trade one of my modified ones for your stock ones if you want..
(save you the trouble of removing the magnet.)
if you want to run a starter plate i have one of those to.
barger knows me...scott and danny helped me years ago when i first started.
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I was thinking I'd keep the push buton start by putting back everything except the alt rotor. I just talked to Ray on the phone and he mentioned that if I do this I'll need to weld the two starter clutch pieces together. He's gonna send me a pic showing where the weld needs to be. But I gather from your post that it's possible to put a lightened rotor in there and keep the bike self-powered. But since it's a drag-only machine, won't the battery keep it going long enough for a pass?
On the other hand, I already have an outboard starter. I have a starter plate too, but it's on a 1980 or 81 GS750 motor. Maybe it'll fit the 1100? If you're not sure I'll check it out later this week.
While I'm typing, I want to say thanks to you and Ray and Baatfam and all the others who've been helping me out with this.
Jerry
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welding is not a have to thing.
i have a modified rotor on the shelf ready to bolt on if you want it.
a good battery still needs charged between rounds in my opinion just so you get everything you can out of the ignition...ive ran several passes without charging before so it is possible.
FYI
the 750 starter plate bolt pattern(80-82 750) is a little different.
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Originally posted by rapidray View PostBut it keeps it from shearing anymore starter clutch bolts & makes it live for almost forever!!! Ray.
but,
he has a street bike or street bike type engine.
no welding keeps it serviceable.
i think the small taper will give up the ghost unless self starting bike racers pull the clutch in while going through the traps.
slamming the throttle closed on big GS's do SOOOOOOOO much damage to the starter clutch/ taper area of the crank...street or strip.
jerry,
got the pm...i have to go to Pearson's tomorrow..
i'll call in the afternoon if thats alright.
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La Dano
Ray, can you send me a pic where the 2 starter pieces are welded. I just grinded off the rivets knocked off the magnet and bolted it back together with locktight. No magnet or stator now.
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hotrods316
any updates on the bike? Do you guys run at kilkare? I just got a little stock 1000 that I want to come out and play with you guys at kilkare on.
Thanks Matt
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1100 dragbike
Hi Matt,
I race in S.E. Michigan at the Lapeer and Ubley tracks. I've been to Dayton a few times to have work done on the head but haven't raced there.
The bike is in great shape. I've done so much to it since I last posted in here. I installed a shift minder and a rev limiter. The rev limiter has been lots of fun. Hold in the switched clutch and...bap bap bap bap WAAAAAAAAAAAAA! Hehe. Anyway, I'm going to an all-bike drag on the 23rd and 24th at Ubley. Good luck with the 1000. If you need any spare parts for it let me know. I have quite a bit of stock stuff left from the one I ran, especially electronics (regulator, etc.). I also have a hand made seat that was put together just for racing. I'll see if I can attach a pic to this e-mail of it on my old 1000. Lemme know if I can help.
Jerry
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