Jennifer's Makeover

Ok, remember these


Last weekend was spent scrubbing and cleaning the head in preperation for paint and getting those ports from ^^^^
to..........
Pretty ports

[pete]

Must agree Stan, oil is much cheaper! Very cheap insurance policy that...

yeah, thanks Pete, built like brick sh1thouses these GS engines.
I am also very anal about oil, changing it often, keeping it clean and keeping the level up, as I see it, oil is cheaper than engines.

[pete]

Real glad to see you making progress again Stan!

Good to see that she's still very serviceable after that many km's too, explains why my 450 was so clean and in spec inside when I pulled it down with a lot less km's on her!

Pistons all cleaned and measured


Piston skirts in good nick.




Those ring grooves clean enough for you doc.




Ewwww, carbon, lots of cleaning and scrubbing to be done.

Yes, Andre, just varify, it has been a few years and the memory is dim, I think the first series 1400 bakkie had the same brakes as the 120Y and the later "Champ" models had slightly bigger callipers, not sure anymore, just check it out, I know we used to buy them and have them skimmed down to 10mm material thickness as they are too thick to go into the GS callipers.

Today was spent measuring piston to cylinder clearance, all good.

Factory spec 0.050mm - 0,060mm
Service limit 0.120mm
As measured (all 4) 0.060mm
I am happy that all all is good, so I have shelved plans to tear the cases apart and inspect the bottom end.
We all know how bullet proof these bottom ends are, so with figures like these, it would be a waste of time.
There are no leaks from the bottom, so I will replace the seals and call it good.
The rest of the day was spent cleaning the head, hopefully I can finish that next weekend and get the valves lapped in, so I can reinstall them.

Oh yes, I know how much we all like pichas....

Dirty, oily lump








Pistons removed

As I remember, the front and back pads are the same, I know the front works.

Thanks for the tip.
I have different front and rear pads on my 80. A quick look on Google shows that the Datsun 120Y may be the same as my rear pads.
I have just replaced the fronts, but will verify both at Midas next week!
Keep well.

[rustybronco]

A brass rod rounded and polished on both ends makes a decent bore taper gauge when used with a set of feeler gauges. It just takes a good feel to ensure sure you placed it correctly inside the bore.

As I remember, the front and back pads are the same, I know the front works.

Thanks Andre, good to know, will do that, Swambo is in the motor parts game so I get the stuff for next to nothing,
Definitely won't need to bore, that is for sure, will slip a feler gauge in tomorrow and check piston to bore clearence, but I expect it will be in spec.
While we on the subject, Nissan 1400 bakkie brake pads skimmed down to 10mm are a lot cheaper than EBC and a lot better than Emgo's.

Now you tell me! For the front or back?

Thanks Andre, good to know, will do that, Swambo is in the motor parts game so I get the stuff for next to nothing,
Definitely won't need to bore, that is for sure, will slip a feler gauge in tomorrow and check piston to bore clearence, but I expect it will be in spec.
While we on the subject, Nissan 1400 bakkie brake pads skimmed down to 10mm are a lot cheaper than EBC and a lot better than Emgo's.

Yep, standard pistons, first time the head has ever been of that motor.
I reckon that cam makes a good traditional weapon.
Good news indeed Scott, the less I need to spend, the better,

Stan,
If you contact your local engine part supplier, they have 70mm Uno rings which will fit, just give them the measurements from your manual. I got a set for 4 cyl Hastings rings for about R120 from ours.
Save a few R's!

PS. If you need to rebore and get larger pistons and rings consider re-sleeving to standard size

[Nessism]

Sorry to be a contrarian, but measuring the bore with a bore gauge is a better way to judge wear. I've measured a number of fairly low mileage GS1000 cylinders (30k miles) and I've always found a fair bit of taper and out of round. Hopefully that won't be the case here of course. Just don't want you to assume too much. Finding a new cylinder, or at least a lowER mileage one is fairly cheap all things considered.

Thanks Matt, we try.

Wow, great build........read it all at once today