Project:1980 GS1000g

[Steve]

And why the urge for a chain drive?

Suzuki managed to get their shaft drive right, once they finally got it on the road. All the magazine testers of the day were amazed that it had virtually NO "shaft-jacking" and felt that it could be ridden just like a chain-drive bike.

In other words, try it before you sell it. You may just like it.

.

[bigboresuzuki]

Keep it and buy a chain drive as well.I did 66,000 kms on my 80 GT in two years here in Australia.The bike is so comfortable and easy to ride,U-turns a breeze.The geometry is magic.You will regret it if you sell it.happy Riding.

[GSJohnny]

Ok I am keeping the shaft drive. The bike has been sitting in my garage for about a year and I have fallen very in love with it.

Waiting on O rings right now so I figured I would do some cosmetic things.

After I installed the sport bike bars I found that the headlight and instruments were too high. So I lowered the whole thing including the key ignition. I think I lowered it by about 1.25 inches. What do you guys think?







used some longer bolts on the ignition with a coupling nut and a couple washers to lower the ignition down.


~GSJohnny

[Digitus]

wow $250 for that bike, what a great deal ! The bike looks very neat !
But whats wrong with the shaft drive? Runs just like a chain, but without the maintenance.

I have seen shaft->chain converters on a Yam XS1100, but you'd have to change the swingarm as well..and the wheel..and maybe some other stuff...its not really worth it imho

[GSJohnny]

Long time no post

Well its been a while but its time start working on ye ol garage art.

I am on a 1.5 month long break from college so its time to get this beauty on the road.

Finally decided to get the new rack of BS34 carbs adjusted properly.

The float heights were way off it seems. They were set to around .800 inch and that seems way too low compared to spec so I brought them up a little.

Specs say .880 +/-.04 is where they are suppose to be at so here are the levels now.



Here is the reading at .890 (figured that was close enough):



Somewhat of a beauty shot before I put the bowls back on:




I hope I made the proper adjustment. If I didn't, someone please smack some sense into me

Thanks for looking.

~GSJohnny

[Dogma]

...

I hope I made the proper adjustment. If I didn't, someone please smack some sense into me

Thanks for looking.

~GSJohnny

Should be good as long as you measured to the right place on the float (a common mistake).

[GSJohnny]

Should be good as long as you measured to the right place on the float (a common mistake).

I measured it according to this picture.



Not from the highest point but just at the shoulder of the float, clear to the metal where the gaskets sits.

If I didn't do this right, I know I will have a mess on my hands.

Any more assurance would be appreciated.

[azr]

You did it right. Start her up, ride it, and see what happens.

[GSJohnny]

Thanks for the help guys.

- So far I have completed throwing on all the extra "linkages" and brackets and such onto the carbs. Also did a bench sync. Looks and feels good.



- Now I am starting to tackle the general clean up and seal replacement on the clutch cover and such.

- Due to my oil cooler being very damaged, I was thinking about just taking it off till I can replace it.

- What should I do about the oil cooler "?sending unit?" part in the mean time?



- Can I just cap it off? Clamp a hose between the two ports to make a bypass?



I'm hoping to get this beautiful bike back on the road before the nice weather goes away. I'll do a full tear down some other time.


Appreciate your interest.

~GSJohnny

[azr]

Can't see why you can't loop the hose one to the other. There's no reason for you to need an oil cooler. The bike will run perfectly without it. If you want a regular sending unit let me know, I've got a shed full.

[gsrick]

I have someone that wants that fitting and I'd like it myself for when I'm stuck in traffic during a 105 degree melter. The bike didn't come with coolers and except for the previous example it really isn't nessesary, but it is good insurance. Looking over your thread I hope you gave up on the shaft/chain conversion. I have both bikes and love them both, but they are night and day opposites in characteristics. I rebuilt the carbs on both and serviced the drive train on both. The G won on both accounts. I actually can't understand how some on here prefer mechanical slide carbs over CV carbs and chain over shaft unless they have never had the chance to compare them with actual seat in the saddle milage with them. The only plus I give the chain drive is the ability to change the final drive ratio. But how often do you need to do that if your not taking it to a track? Same with the carbs. Yeah there is a greater degree of tuneability to the older VM, but again that is only really needed if it will be seeing a race track. Chain drive = frequent Cleaning + Lubrication + Tension Adjustment + Proper Wheel alignment and eventually chain and sprocket replacement. Shaftdrive = Tranny and Differential Hypoid oil change at around 10,000 miles. Undo drain plugs, drain, replace drain plugs, remove fill plugs, refill to bottom of refill hole and replace fill plugs. Ride another 10,000 and repeat. PS that is something to check on your things to do list. Don't count on the OP to have done this, it's not uncommon for people to never change it. Just saying.

[GSJohnny]

Thanks for the response AZR. Can't wait to roll up on ya on this thing haha.

GSRick - I gave up on the chain conversion the next day after posting that haha. I do plan on reinstalling an oil cooler on the bike so I plan on holding onto the fittings.

I'll be checking on the hypoid oil asap. Thank you for the tip.

---

- I was out last night working on getting the clutch cover oil leak sealed up and I ran into some trouble.

As I reinstalled the clutch cover and bolted everything down, I went to pull the clutch cover and I felt basically no resistance. I deduced this was because that little rack/pinion shaft that actuates the clutch somehow wasn't aligned properly.

So I pulled everything apart expecting to see that little shaft flipped 180 degrees... It wasn't. So I began fiddling with the cover and twisting the clutch actuation shaft CCW and CW trying to get the shaft and gear to mesh properly.

After about 6 attempts I finally got it on there to where the clutch has good resistance through the whole range of motion.

I believe its working properly now but I can't help but be a little annoyed with the installation.

- Is there a proper procedure to install the clutch cover on these bikes? Or will I have to install and re install the cover and fiddle with the clutch shaft till I get it right?



Thanks for your time folks.

~GSJohnny

[gustovh]

Do the loop on the oil hose for the cooler, since you will be replaceing it with another. When replaceing the clutch cover I start with the acuator lever faceing out about 90 deg from where it ends up and slip the cover on, the lever should rotate into place, if not figure why and try again. Should take little to put it on as long as you are lined up properly.
V

[gustovh]

OK Johnny, where you at on the project?
V

[GSJohnny]

OK Johnny, where you at on the project?
V

Heya good sir.

Progress is slow. (fighting a flu bug )

I also ran into some issues with the air box. This thing was completely filthy with oily gunk inside and out and I could not pick it up without getting black on my fingers.

I was thinking there was no way to get good clean air to the carburetors with this issue...

So I cleaned the damned thing.

Took the better part of a day.

Whoever worked on the bike before knew that it had air leak problems (not because of the air box) but because of the intake boots. So they slapped a bunch of gunky nasty tar-like black adhesive to the rubber gasket/seal on the sides of the air box where the covers are thinking that would fix it.

No amount of degreaser or soap and water would take it off so I picked it off with my fingers.

Also the internal filter foam seal just fell apart in my fingers as soon as I touched it so I am working on fixing that.

Sorry no before shots:

Looks pretty good now. (no weatherstripping inside yet)



Photo of the rubber seal: Are these still in good shape?





More air box photos:







Well that's where I'm at now.

Thanks for your interest.


~GSJohnny