fuel injected turbo katana

[rotty]

Wow this bike is going to be awesome..Love the work Rob..Love the little things you did.That puts your bike over the top..

[katman]

bandit swingarm conversion

If you were wondering what swingarm I am using on this project, it is a bandit 1200 swing arm. When I first began modifying katanas I was told to use a gsxr swing arm. That is what everyone used. A dude over the pond sugested I use a bandit arm. So, I went down to the local bike wreckers and purchased a bandit 1200 swing arm. Dude was right.

I say this because I have had lots of bad advise over the years. Anyway, the nice thing about the bandit arm is you don't have to butcher the frame to get it installed. With the gsxr swing arms you have to remove the peg stays and use rear sets. I did not want to remove the peg stays. The 1200 bandit arm is a little narrower in the pivot than the GS suzuki so I make custom reducer bushings to take up the space. The bandit pivot is also larger in diameter than the GS suzuki so the bushings reduce the pivot size back to 16mm to enable use in the katana frame, or 1100e frame and 750 frame for that matter. If you are doing this kind of upgrade, you can purchase these bushings from www.parts.suzuki-katana.com.

For the katana enthusiast there are a couple other areas to modify for perfect fitment. First, the mono shock boss mount on the swing arm has to be removed. If it is not, it will hit the battery box and gernade your battery. Next, it gets a little tight in the rear brake pedel actuator area. Some modifying is needed for clearance there and the brake return spring tab needs to be relocated and the pedal stop pad needs a trim.

Ok, now what is left is some shock mounts. Be careful, think ahead, and make sure you have enough room for chain clearance past the shock springs. Not all shocks are created equal. Koni shocks have small diameter springs where as Fox shocks are large diameter and run all the way down to the bottom of the shock. Many instances of chain/spring contact have been recorded. Moving the left shock mount outboard a few mm will rectify this problem. (remember to space the top of the shock out as well to keep things parallel.

CNC shock mounts are also available at www.parts.suzuki-katana.com. Now that you have replaced that wet noodle of a swing arm that flexed badly with the bike tire the katana came with, you will have no worries with the new radial 180 tire you are mounting on now. You can mount a 5.5" rim with a 180 tire onto the stock swing arm but I don't know why you would want to.

I have added some swing arm extensions to my bandit arm to give the katana some much needed stretch. Since the bolt on extensions are not made so much for cornering but for straight line runs, I have welded them on for safety. I have also modified the mono shock area to hold my oil catch can that is being fed from the clutch cover and cam cover crank case vent. If you are wondering why, take your oil filler cap off while the bike is running and put your hand over the opening.

[katman]

I am a fan of clean lines and un-cluttered space. So, when it comes to the rear brake I prefer not to have a torque arm stablizing the caliper. I like to use the armless caliper/hanger set ups used on many Suzuki GSXR's.
In the top picture you can see the tongue and receiver that hold the caliper hanger in place. These were found on the early to mid 1990 GSXR's. The set up I am using is off a 2006 GSXR 1000. I machine up my own receivers to weld on the gsx1200 bandit swing arm. I think they work well and look very clean as you can see from previous pictures. The bottom picture is an inside look at my setup. It is important that you use the correct rotor and spacer as alignment is critical. The 2006 rotor is smaller than the 1999 GSXR. Also, you need to know what year wheel you are using as mixing and matching parts can be dangerous and a nightmare to put together. Visit my tech site www.suzuki-katana.com to see what does work and save yourself headaches, time and money. If you find the information helpful maybe buy something from the parts site www.parts.suzuki-katana.com and help support the site and keep it going.

[katman]

katana tank, flush mount gas cap

Got the tank back from Tigger today. Everything looks good. I added a fuel drain for winters to be able to completely drain and dry the tank. In the pictures you can see the drain, fuel tap, return line and the low fuel warning thermistors.

A thermistor is is an electrical component that has high resistance when cold. As it heats up, resistance drops allowing current to flow. As resistance drops and current flows a circuit is completed. This circuit is what turns on your low fuel light warning of low fuel level. I used one from an sv650 which has a double thermistor. Low and critical low level. This is important with fuel injection as you can't rely on the reserve switch when the bike starts to starve for fuel. Unlike the gs1100e suzuki models, the katana has no fuel gauge so I wanted to come up with some solution to determine fuel level. This was my solution.

The wires that pass through the thermistors are negative ground wires. It should be fairly obvious why you would not want to run live 12 positive wires into a gas tank fuel of fuel and fumes. The return line I made myself out of a 90 degree npt fitting. AN8 to 18mm metric thread. I was going to weld on an AN fitting but thought it may be better not to. If the an fitting got buggered up, I would have to cut it off and weld again. this way it can simply be replaced. An NPT fitting was an option too, but I decided on the 18mm standard weld bung. This is standard for the O2 sensors and is the same thread for the low fuel sensor as well.

The Pingel fuel tap has a round inlet so a little enlarging of the opening for it is in order. If not the inlet will not feed into the tank all the way and forcing it will result in a torn screen. I decided to use the Pingel because one, I had it, and two, I have the ability to shut the fuel off to remove the tank. The other shut off is needed on the return fitting. There I will be using a check valve (one way). If you look close you may be able to see the safety wire on the drain plug. I drilled it because it is in behind the plastic and I didn't want my first indication of a leak to be flames as raw fuel drips onto my cylinder head and exhaust header.

As you can see, the flush mount cap is on too, looks as good as I immagined it would. Very happy with it. The fuel cap is a Harley Sportster cap and trim ring. I may machine a new trim ring myself, but for now I will go with it. It attaches with an adhesive backing. If you do something like this, make sure you use a vented cap.

[katman]

katana wiring

oH BOY!

Time to install my brand new wiring harness. Love new wires, they are so supple and no worries about connections. As you can see from the pics though, I have a real mess to contend with. As you know, I am not a fan of clutter, so something has to be done about this spaghetti, and it will. All my new ground points will come in handy. The techs over at Simply Digital Systems tell me the the best way to ground the EFI system is all together away from any other grounds. That is one reason I added the ground points on the frame. Thinking ahead I used stainless steel so I could leave the metal bare/unpainted for the best connections possible.

There is a lot of wire related to the EFI that I don't need so considerable triming and crimping is in order. Good thing I just bought a brand new crimping tool for the job. I will be able to trim much of the clutter and confusion simply by getting rid of excess wire. I have located components together to minimize wire. I like my rides to look as good under the hood as they do sitting at the curb. This is going to be a bit of work...

[katman]

I have added a couple pics due to emails wanting to see the return line into the tank. 90 degree fitting with a 7 inch 3/8 ID stainless steel tube that I machined to fit inside AN 8 fitting.

There sure is a lot of wire to sort out between the EFI, katana harness and the Dyna ignition wires. As usual with products you buy for your resto-mod, the wiring is not fitted to your application necessarily so changes have to be made. Many of those changes are sizing and fitting connectors to the wiring. The Dyna 2000 comes with about 4 feet more harness than you need. I have cut/sized most of the wiring now which includes soldering, crimping and shrink hose for all the turminals. When I could I used sheathing to cover multiple wires that you can get from your local or not so local vintage motorcycle shop.

I also suggest investing in quality electrical tape, and the quality crimper. When shortening wires I cut and solder back together then double shrink wrap before sheathing. Things aren't looking so cluttered now but more work is needed. As you can see in the pics I made a tin cover for the wiring to help clean up the look of things. I am not sure if it is working for me or not. If you are wondering what the polished plate is with the two gold resisters on it is, they are needed for the injectors. I could use the "SIMPLY DIGITAL SYSTEMS" controler for the ignition but I prefer to use the Dyna 2000 system.

The Dyna 2000 has a retard, safety switch, rev limiter and multiple advance curves. By keeping the ignition and fuel seperate, it is less complicated to trouble shoot and set up. I have yet to finish the wheels as there has been some reaction issues with the paint, combined with some chilly days in the shop. I am waiting for a milder day to finish them and get them off for tire mounting.

[katman]

is that cap properly vented i installed a aftermarket aircraft style cap and it spits fuel when hot

Sorry Steve, missed your question.
Yes, it is suposed to be anyway. It is a replacement cap for a harley sportster. It is a harley part, not aftermarket.

[katman]

Bit of a setback today with the usb charger. I spent hrs last night de-soldering and re-soldering to get the iphone charging with this new board. Everything was working fine so I encapsulated it with epoxy.
Today I machined up a frame for the volt meter and wired up the usb, activation switch and the volt meter. I am using a switch so I can control when these items are active. The usb port uses power even when nothing is pluged in (I am told) as well as the volt meter. So, now, I can turn everything on only when I want to check volt status of the battery, or use the usb plug. The volt meter is to monitor battery status generally but also to keep track while charging is happening when the bike is parked and turned off. I don't anticipate any issues with the new Lithium Iron battery I will be using.

I wired everything up and guess what, no charge to the iPhone. There seems to be a problem with the data lines, because as you can see below, the usb is out putting power. For most usb applications this would be fine but the iPhone is a odd duck and needs active data wires. So, back at it again when I receive some more boards.

The surrounds for the push button switch, volt meter and usb plug will probably be painted gloss black and not left raw aluminum. The volt meter is reading high because it is on charge.

YOUTUBE VID of it working :http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RyWztCHW8Ec

[katman]

katana charging system

OK boys and girls. If you don't know already, the Suzuki charging system stinks. I recommend replacing the stator and the regulator / rectifier with aftermarket components before your harness melts and your battery boils over and explodes.
For the katana, there are two extra wires that are not needed. They are Green with White tracer, and White with Red tracer. The stator connects to one and the regulator / rectifier connects to the other. where do they go? They run through the harness upto the right hand control plug and loop around back. It is a very long way to connect the stator to the regulator / rectifier. A better idea is to just connect all three wires coming from the stator to the regulator.
The regulator will have two more wires. Black, which is ground and Red, which connects to the red wire on the harness which feeds the battery. The aftermarket stators and regulators all have the same color wires because it doesn't matter how you connect the three. Just plug them all into the regulator. In the picture below you can see the Red/white plugged into the Green/white. That is just a closed loop up to the right hand control plug and back down.
If you use another type of reg/rec it may have another wire which is probably the status wire that tells the reg/rec how the battery is. Connect that directly to the battery. If you don't, and connect it to a switched power wire, you run the risk of over charging the battery as the reg/rec may see less voltage due to resistance and corrosion in the wires.
A side note, there are two sizes of reg/rec controllers for the '82,'83 era katana. One for lower output stators and one for higher output stators. As far as the katana is concerned, either regulator / rectifier will work on our bikes. It is just some have more wires than others. They will all do the same job. According to the techs at Electrosport.

[katman]

530 sprocket conversion

The katana comes stock with a 630 pitch chain and sprockets. These are very heavy and not needed for the street. When it is time for new hardware, convert to a 530 pitch setup. The 530 and 630 sprockets are the same width or thickness but the 630 chain has more distance between each link. When converting to a 530 chain and sprockets there are a couple things you need to know. This is also important to those of you who are updating to a 5.5" gsxr wheel out back to take advantage of the larger footprint, safety and comfort of a radial tire and lets face it, to add meaness to the bike.

Ok, the first issue is size. If you go ahead and buy the matching tooth size to your stock sprockets you will be in trouble. In the pictures below, you can see a stock GS countershaft sprocket and a 530 sprocket side by side. The 530 sprocket is a little smaller than the 630. If you count the teeth you will see the 530 is actually 2 teeth larger than the 630 but is still smaller in diameter. What does this mean? Well, combined with the much smaller diameter of the rear sprocket, you run the risk of chain sawing through your swing arm pivot. A GS1100 katana uses a 15/42 chain set. Would it surprise you to find out that the same size rear 530 sprocket is 50 teeth? YOu are starting to get the picture. Finding the correct gear ratio depends on the rear tire, wheel and preference of the rider.

With a 5.5" gsxr rim and 180/55-17 tire on your katana, you would want a 17 tooth front sprocket with a 47 tooth rear. This will get you to within 0.5 mph of the stock ratio @ 4000 rpm when cruzing on the highway. For another example, if you are running a 130/90-17 tire you will need a 17 tooth front and a 50 tooth rear to match the stock ratio. At 8,500 rpm you are within one tenth of a mph of stock.

Next issue to consider is, the stock front sprocket is sandwiched between two plates. The inside plate has a larger hole to allow the countershaft bushing to but up against the steel sprocket. The outside of the sprocket, has a smaller in the plate and the lock nut buts up against it. In the pictures below I have illustrated this so you can see that there is a 6mm spacer on the stock 630 sprocket. The sprocket you see beside it is a sprocket of my own design that has the 6mm spacer built into it for ease of installation. These sprockets are only available from my website http://www.parts.suzuki-katana.com. Remember, the spacer goes to the outside. I get many, many emails regarding this confusion. If you look on the stock sprocket you can see three philips screws. Take them off and you are left with a flat sprocket. If you try to bolt up a 530 sprocket without the spacer, you will not be able to tighten up the locking nut as it will hit the spline on the output shaft before it comes in contact with the sprocket. This is where the spacer comes into play. Also available from my site is a custom designed aluminum rear sprocket, which is also exclusively to parts.suzuki-katana.com.

Now for the 5.5" gsxr wheel conversion. These rims are much wider than the stock rim so, an offset sprocket must be used to align the sprockets and chain. Generally speaking, a 5.5" wheel with a 180 tire will need a 5/8" offset sprocket to align the chain. This is in regard to installing this rim on a stock gs1100 katana swing arm. IF you are using a bandit swing arm then you need a custom offset sprocket, not the common 5/8' offset. At http://www.parts.suzuki-katana.com you can find the correct offset sprocket for a 5.5" bandit or gsxr rear rim.

For those who are new and are confused about gearing and ratios, there is a rule of thumb you can follow. For every tooth on the front sprocket that you add or subtract, you add or subtract three from the rear sprocket. So, add one tooth up front, add three in the rear to keep generally the same ratio. If you want a little more ummmph off the line and midrange liveliness, add a tooth or two, to the rear sprocket. Doing this will raise your highway cruzing rpm as you add teeth to the rear. So, the higher the number of teeth on the rear sprocket the higher your rpm at a given speed. A smaller sprocket on the rear will drop your rpm when cruzing at highway speed giving you better mileage, if that sort of thing interests you.

Couple things to note. When converting to 530 don't automatically think the chain will be much smaller and therefor you will have no clearance issues when moving to a larger rear wheel. You can actually buy a 530 chain that is wider than your stock 630 chain. For instance the DID 630v chain is 25.3mm wide (this is measured at the pin length) and their 530zvm chain is also 25.3mm wide. You can drop a few pounds of rotating mass by converting but you have to do your research so you don't end up with something you can't use. Don't be fooled by tensile strength either. There are some good articles regarding this myth and when you look at some of the rating vs cc size you may notice that some cheaper chains recommended for 400cc or 600cc bikes are the same tensile strength as your more expensive chain. Tensile strength is tensile strength. Makes for a good study.

[posplayr]

OK boys and girls. If you don't know already, the Suzuki charging system stinks. I recommend replacing the stator and the regulator / rectifier with aftermarket components before your harness melts and your battery boils over and explodes.
For the katana, there are two extra wires that are not needed. They are Green with White tracer, and White with Red tracer. The stator connects to one and the regulator / rectifier connects to the other. where do they go? They run through the harness upto the right hand control plug and loop around back. It is a very long way to connect the stator to the regulator / rectifier. A better idea is to just connect all three wires coming from the stator to the regulator.
The regulator will have two more wires. Black, which is ground and Red, which connects to the red wire on the harness which feeds the battery. The aftermarket stators and regulators all have the same color wires because it doesn't matter how you connect the three. Just plug them all into the regulator. In the picture below you can see the Red/white plugged into the Green/white. That is just a closed loop up to the right hand control plug and back down.
If you use another type of reg/rec it may have another wire which is probably the status wire that tells the reg/rec how the battery is. Connect that directly to the battery. If you don't, and connect it to a switched power wire, you run the risk of over charging the battery as the reg/rec may see less voltage due to resistance and corrosion in the wires.
A side note, there are only two types of reg/rec controlers. One for lower output stators and one for higher output stators. As far as the katana is concerned, any regulator / rectifier will work on our bikes. It is just some have more wires than others. They will all do the same job.

I guess you have not seen this thread?

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=161397

[katman]

I guess you have not seen this thread?

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=161397

No, had not seen that thread. Looks very cool (pardon the pun) I have been running electrosport reg/rec and stators for years now without issues and at 1/2 the price. System looks good for cooler running. Def has that advantage.

Not sure about your comment though. Is there wrong information in my post? Or were you just pointing out a better option to OEM as well?

[posplayr]

No, had not seen that thread. Looks very cool (pardon the pun) I have been running electrosport reg/rec and stators for years now without issues and at 1/2 the price. System looks good for cooler running. Def has that advantage.

Not sure about your comment though. Is there wrong information in my post? Or were you just pointing out a better option to OEM as well?

A side note, there are only two types of reg/rec controlers. One for lower output stators and one for higher output stators.


Mainly commenting on this sentence above. I'm assuming you are referring to 5 wire v.s 6 wire. There are also SHUNT, FET (also shunt) and SERIES. At this point I would probably only recommend the Honda 6 wire R/R as they have a low probability of burning a stator or the high end SERIES (like the compufire unit as it is smaller than the Cycle Electric ones.)

Have you actually looked at your stator to see if it is turning dark from heat?

[katman]

A side note, there are only two types of reg/rec controlers. One for lower output stators and one for higher output stators.
Mainly commenting on this sentence above.

I see, yes, I was not specific in that statement. I was referring to reg/recs of the era. I will endeavor to be more specific in future.

I have pulled stators both from OEM and electrosport models that have looked fine and I have pulled some OEM stators that were black.

I will look more into the "series" as oil temp is a concern for my 1260 engine. Thanks for the tip.

[katman]

katana led signal lights

I was unhappy with my last set of signal lights. Not very bright, not many leds and a little small. I have found a new set that I really like. I haven't seen this shape before but maybe I just don't get around very much. There has been much discussion about getting led lights to work properly on a bike. There are expensive solutions on the internet if you have too much money and want to stimulate the economy. You can go the cheap route like me two seasons ago. I hid the incondescent bulb signals under the katana plastic in a way that they would splash the engine and rear wheel when activated, while using the led signal lights in the usual signal location. A bit of bling for no bucks. I may do it again, or I may just go to my local automotive parts store and pick up a signal flasher unit for led lights (10.00) The reason the led lights won't flash is they don't draw enough current to activate the stock flasher. At least that is what I was told. A few years ago the solution was not as simple as today.

The old oval signals only have 8 led lights, where as the new ones have 18. The new leds also light up the tips for warning anyone to the side of the bike. They are a little larger than the old ones, brighter and a better design in my opinion. Another reason I like them is they match my new billet mirrors pretty good. I should have them in a couple weeks from Hong Kong.