82'1100g

[Steve]

TCK, what are you supposed to replace this spline with? Just curious as I have my eye on an 82 GK. (sorry for thread hijacking)

Not TCK here, but I can still answer it.

Well-aged cheddar cheese would be an improvement, but for really long-term use, get a set of used splines from an '81 or older bike or spring for a brand new set.

The original spines ('79-'81) were made of hard steel. For some reason, they softened them up from '82 to about '84 or '85. Virtually all of the newer shaft-driven bikes from Suzuki have harder splines again, and will drop right in to the GS wheel.

The originals are black steel, the soft ones are gold, the newer ones are
silver.

EDIT: sorry for the duplication with TCK, appears we were both typing at the same time.

.

[TheCafeKid]

Not TCK here, but I can still answer it.

Well-aged cheddar cheese would be an improvement, but for really long-term use, get a set of used splines from an '81 or older bike or spring for a brand new set.

The original spines ('79-'81) were made of hard steel. For some reason, they softened them up from '82 to about '84 or '85. Virtually all of the newer shaft-driven bikes from Suzuki have harder splines again, and will drop right in to the GS wheel.

The originals are black steel, the soft ones are gold, the newer ones are
silver.

.

ANd you STILL need to pay attention to the colour on the 81 bits. Mid 81 supposedly (according to BWringer) is when they started the wreched conversion to the metal that I wouldnt make cheap Chinese lighters out of. Black is good. Silver is good. Gold is trash. That is all

[don]

Excelnt info fellas. Thank you!! Would truely SUCK for sure crapping out going down the highway. Will look into it for sure during the off season. (getting here quick in New England)

Been pokeing around this net we love, and came acrosst this pic of an 82 1100G. I think I'm initially, (love at first sight), fond of the colors and styling.

Comments welcome.

http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s350/donmod/1100G/Suzuki20GS201100G208220202.jpg

[chiphead]

Excelnt info fellas. Thank you!! Would truely SUCK for sure crapping out going down the highway. Will look into it for sure during the off season. (getting here quick in New England)

Been pokeing around this net we love, and came acrosst this pic of an 82 1100G. I think I'm initially, (love at first sight), fond of the colors and styling.

Comments welcome.

http://i510.photobucket.com/albums/s...G208220202.jpg

Tha is one sexy looking 1100G. The absolute best color scheme IMHO.

[midnightcafe]

Nice color scheme indeed. I would shoot for a black with gunmetal grey accents and silver pinstriping- a dark gray would look mean on black!

[don]

Well Allrighty.

When I drove the bike home from purchasing it, It had a lean exhaust backfire while warming up and a lazy throttle on initial twist, (by quite a bit. Like 1/16-1/8 turn). I'm figuring, ultrasonic the carbs and put new rubber in em' and I'll be on my way. Did that and was no furthur along than before. Still popped lean. Got into the airbox and found a K&N in there but no foam sealer on the part that seals against the carb side, and I think it was at least 2 shades blacker than the tires. Furthur investigation revealed no foam strips anywhere there were supposed to be. Washed the filter and installed plain old weather strip foam, like for your door in your house. Took a little 2 mile prelim ride then went for a nice 60-70 mile ride with my neighbor.

Now, it's not completely right, but it ran quite well. The only thing I noticed is that it gets weaker with harder throttle. It doesn't pull hard throught the full twist of the right hand, only the first bit, 1/2 or so. Without looking or doing anything since I got back from that ride with my neighbor, I would have to guess it's still a little lean. I didn't like the way the floats and needle/seats set up when I put it all back together. I think the springs in the needles are worn out or something. I'll check it all out later. For now............I can ride it around for another 2-3 weekends before my budy winches it into my basement with his quad for the winter. THEN we'll get after it.......................

Till my next ride on the 1100.............(My poor little 550 feels sooooooooo neglected.....)

[don]

Did an oil and filter change tonight with the good stuff you all reccomend, Rotell-tiller oil. Got everything done, filled it up to the "full" line, started it and let it run a minuit or so, turned it off ad let it set for about 5 min, checked the oil level again, topped it off, repeated till all was good, (this thing takes like a whole gallon of oil, my 550 only takes like 3 qts with a filter). Took it down to the end of the road, (1/8 mile), to get rid of that nasty condensation from the pipes. When I got back, I heard the most disturbing sound, ROD KNOCK !!!!!!! (Put, put, put, put, clunk/ding, put, put, put, clunk/ding, pu, put, put, clunk/ding).

Guess I'll be doing an engine rebuild over the winter, (between catching a billion perch and bass through the ice). Not what I had planned or hoped for, but what can I expect for the money I paid for it, $900, and I rode it home.

BTW,
Now that I have a shaftie, What the heck is Hypoid oil and where do I get it?

[midnightcafe]

BTW,
Now that I have a shaftie, What the heck is Hypoid oil and where do I get it?

It's gear oil for the shaft drive, you can buy it at any automotive store

[chiphead]

[QUOTE=don;1294045].....Took it down to the end of the road, (1/8 mile), to get rid of that nasty condensation from the pipes. When I got back, I heard the most disturbing sound, ROD KNOCK !!!!!!! (Put, put, put, put, clunk/ding, put, put, put, clunk/ding, pu, put, put, clunk/ding).

Guess I'll be doing an engine rebuild over the winter, (between catching a billion perch and bass through the ice). Not what I had planned or hoped for, but what can I expect for the money I paid for it, $900, and I rode it home.
....QUOTE]

I'm skeptical you have a rod knock. Sure, it's possible but these motors are not known for that. When you drained the oil did you see metal residue? I wouldn't pull the trigger on an engine rebuild without ruling everything else out first. Carbs out of synch will cause some pretty impressive weird engine noise. Tired clutch baskets or loose stator rotor also. How many miles on this thing?

[don]

Well I know for sure there is a clutch rattle and when I did the quickie carb thing I didn't break the rack down, I did them all together. I can check it out with the merury stics. As far as the oil, besides being black as coal, I didn't notice anything unusual. I took the timing cover off and "rocked" the motor over with a socket on the trigger bolt. I did hear/feel a little thunk, thunk, when I changed directions but don't know how it's supposed to feel to start with.

As far as mileage, no spedo cable and don't know for how long it was like that, but the odo says 18K and change.

(At work, gotta be quick and stealthy)

Thanks for the input fellas.

[don]

Here's a link to an upside down video of the bike running in my shed and the noise I'm hearing. Sorry for the upside down part, didn't think to change the camera settings before I recorded it.

You can hear the knock best toward the end of the video, right before I touched the camera to the motor and, well, let's just say the noise is rattly when you do that.

http://s510.photobucket.com/albums/s350/donmod/1100G/?action=view&current=GOPR0008.mp4

[chiphead]

I could be wrong, but if the valve clearances are in spec that could be cam walk you're hearing. Once valve clearances are done do a mad synch on the carbs. Bet you the noise will disappear. If you've got time to kill synch the carbs before you tackle the valves and see if there is a difference. I'd still open it up and check the valves though, maybe over the winter.

I respectfully disagree with derwood. Should use hypoid.

[don]

Thanks for the input,

I'll do a synch this week on it and see what happens.

As for the whole gear oil thing, Hypoid is simply the gear design. The gear profile is exactly what's in the rear end of a car. I remember years ago people talking about hypoid oil but never undestood what they were talking about exactly. Now I know. It's just rear end gears, (ring and pinion, specificly the "swirl" of the gear design).

[chiphead]

I'm not trying to beat a dead horse, but you need to use hypoid oil.

"

Hypoid Oil Differences

<LI id=jsArticleStep1 itxtvisited="1">Particularly for manual transmission and similar constructs, hypoid gear oil is the recommended lubricant. It's a gearbox oil, just like others, but the ingredients are different. This type of gear oil is mixed with additives designed to increase its resistance to breakdown under high temperature and mechanical pressure produced by hypoid gearboxes.

Read more: What Is Hypoid Gear Oil? | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/about_5729620_hy...#ixzz11aE1BSeV

[don]

Chiphead,

One of the same aticles I looked at. And true, you can not replace hypoid rated oil with plain old gear oil but as long as the oil is designed for a hypoid contoured gearset, (automotive ring and pinion), harmony will be granted.