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    #16
    Originally posted by Suzuki_Don View Post
    How many lbs do you think the shaft adds to the weight of the bike.
    Don't know for sure, but judging by the weight of the 1100 pumpkin I had, and the heavier swingarm and wheel, I would guess in the neighborhood of 30 lbs or so. There has to be a few more pounds in the transmission, too. I know the 850 is a metric sh;t ton heavier than the 750.
    Last edited by tkent02; 11-09-2010, 06:23 PM.
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

    Life is too short to ride an L.

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      #17
      The 850 weighs the same as the 1000 & the 750 weighs the same as the other 1000....

      Tom's right. Officially it's about 35lb but add in the weight of the extra oil, the fact that the G carries an extra 10lb of gas etc plus the additional transimission losses etc.

      The 1000G I had was a sweet ride though, better than the 1000E in a lot of respects.
      1980 GS1000G - Sold
      1978 GS1000E - Finished!
      1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
      1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
      2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
      1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
      2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

      www.parasiticsanalytics.com

      TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

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        #18
        Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
        The 850 weighs the same as the 1000 & the 750 weighs the same as the other 1000....

        Tom's right. Officially it's about 35lb but add in the weight of the extra oil, the fact that the G carries an extra 10lb of gas etc plus the additional transimission losses etc.

        The 1000G I had was a sweet ride though, better than the 1000E in a lot of respects.
        Agreed, the 1100G was better in a lot of ways than the 1000E. Faster wasn't one of them.
        http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

        Life is too short to ride an L.

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          #19
          Thanks Guys, Just trying to fathom if my bike would be faster/lighter than the 650G like Tom has done up for his personal use, now he has decided to keep it.

          I know this is getting a bit off topic, so Tom tell me to p;ss off if you want, but this is the first "O" ring chain bike I have had for over 20 years and I need some advice on what is best to lube/spray the chain with. Presently I am using a lanolin industrial product, but would prefer to use the correct product. Actually my chain is a 530 "X" ring chain.

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            #20
            Don, I can't fathom why your 700cc 6 speed isn't quite a bit quicker than a near stock 650g. You should have more engine power (more displacement), less weight guessing around 450 wet vs 500 for g, and an extra gear plus the aftermarket 4 into 1 exhaust. Plus you can change gearing with different sprockets to match desires.

            I will concur with Tkent, the high rev power output isn't the 650g strength. Mine willing revs but doesn't provide any great rush of power. It does accelerate smoothly from idle to redline in all gears though.

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              #21
              Ed, the performance of my bike is similar to what you describe, although I do get a lift at about 6,000rpm. But solid power from idle through to redline. But with less weight is probably a bit more brisk than the G model. It does not have the massive change in characteristic like the 550 had at 5 and then 7k, but a lot more bottom end. It will run in 6th from 20mph and pull strongly. My gearing at present is a bit lower than standard though. Halfway between the 650 and 550 original gearing ratio.

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                #22
                Originally posted by Suzuki_Don View Post
                Thanks Guys, Just trying to fathom if my bike would be faster/lighter than the 650G like Tom has done up for his personal use, now he has decided to keep it.

                I know this is getting a bit off topic, so Tom tell me to p;ss off if you want, but this is the first "O" ring chain bike I have had for over 20 years and I need some advice on what is best to lube/spray the chain with. Presently I am using a lanolin industrial product, but would prefer to use the correct product. Actually my chain is a 530 "X" ring chain.
                Chain lube, on sealed chains, doesn't do much. Keeps the outside from rusting, that's about it. The real lube is sealed inside. I just use WD-40, or some other spray stuff, or whatever I find laying around. A guy on a KLR forum who rides a buttload of miles on just one bike, kept careful records, using a lot of different lubes. He found that sealed chains lasted just as long using WD-40 on a regular schedule as with any of the chain lubes. The only time they go bad is when the rubber o rings fall out, then those links wear very quickly, no matter what you treat them with. The chain is pretty much junk as soon as any seals are missing. Maybe the seals last longer with some super duper chain lube, I doubt it.

                Some of them I don't lube at all, like when I'm planning on changing them out to change ratios. I just run them dry. They don't seem to wear any faster, just get a little dusty looking.

                The opposite is true for non sealed chains, you can't lube them often enough, and they wear quickly anyway as soon as any dirt gets in.

                Damn, I think I'm turning myself into a shafty nutcase.
                Last edited by tkent02; 11-09-2010, 08:39 PM.
                http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                Life is too short to ride an L.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by Suzuki_Don View Post
                  Ed, the performance of my bike is similar to what you describe, although I do get a lift at about 6,000rpm. But solid power from idle through to redline. But with less weight is probably a bit more brisk than the G model. It does not have the massive change in characteristic like the 550 had at 5 and then 7k, but a lot more bottom end. It will run in 6th from 20mph and pull strongly. My gearing at present is a bit lower than standard though. Halfway between the 650 and 550 original gearing ratio.
                  I'm planning on using the 550's cams to keep that top end kick, 4-1 pipes, maybe some head porting, and selecting sprockets so that sixth is approximately equal to what fifth was originally. Acceleration is the object of the game. This one will be purely for fun, not really into the long distance thing on this bike.
                  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                  Life is too short to ride an L.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                    I'm planning on using the 550's cams to keep that top end kick, 4-1 pipes, maybe some head porting, and selecting sprockets so that sixth is approximately equal to what fifth was originally. Acceleration is the object of the game. This one will be purely for fun, not really into the long distance thing on this bike.
                    I would like to see the head after the porting is done. I may get into modding one of my 650s in future. I am more or less inclined to slot the cams and play around with timing, I think the powerband could be moved higher with a little modification.

                    BTW, your 650g looks like a runner. I do sorta dig the primer color. Nice rescue.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by waterman View Post

                      BTW, your 650g looks like a runner. I do sorta dig the primer color. Nice rescue.
                      Thanks, but it's only in primer because I haven't figured out a stripe pattern I like yet. My wife thinks I should put some army looking star on it and call it good.

                      http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                      Life is too short to ride an L.

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                        #26
                        I've always used Chain Wax on chains. These were not sealed o-ring chaings though. Nice thing about it is that nothing flings off. No mess.
                        Current Bikes:
                        2001 Yamaha FZ1 (bought same one back)

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                          Chain lube, on sealed chains, doesn't do much. Keeps the outside from rusting, that's about it. The real lube is sealed inside. I just use WD-40, or some other spray stuff, or whatever I find laying around. A guy on a KLR forum who rides a buttload of miles on just one bike, kept careful records, using a lot of different lubes. He found that sealed chains lasted just as long using WD-40 on a regular schedule as with any of the chain lubes. The only time they go bad is when the rubber o rings fall out, then those links wear very quickly, no matter what you treat them with. The chain is pretty much junk as soon as any seals are missing. Maybe the seals last longer with some super duper chain lube, I doubt it.

                          Some of them I don't lube at all, like when I'm planning on changing them out to change ratios. I just run them dry. They don't seem to wear any faster, just get a little dusty looking.

                          The opposite is true for non sealed chains, you can't lube them often enough, and they wear quickly anyway as soon as any dirt gets in.

                          Damn, I think I'm turning myself into a shafty nutcase.
                          I was just thinking that there would need to be some lubrication where the outside of the rollers make contact with the sprocket teeth. Is this not required?

                          BTW Tom, glad you got it road worthy, bike looks great, and will be more so with a proper coat of paint. You must be getting a fair number of mounts in that stable of yours by now.

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                            #28
                            I went with chain wax recently and like it. Less fling off and the sprockets have a nice layer of lubricant to reduce wear on the teeth and chain rollers.
                            Ed

                            To measure is to know.

                            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                              I went with chain wax recently and like it. Less fling off and the sprockets have a nice layer of lubricant to reduce wear on the teeth and chain rollers.
                              Yeah, I'm sure that "lubricant" stays there at least a mile in perfect conditions.
                              http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                              Life is too short to ride an L.

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                                #30
                                I missed something? This is a shaft bike, right? Wax chain lube? OHH, I see what I missed. Sorry.

                                cg
                                Last edited by Charlie G; 11-09-2010, 11:17 PM. Reason: Missed a few posts
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                                83 GS1100g
                                2006 Triumph Sprint ST 1050

                                Ohhhh!........Torque sweet Temptress.........always whispering.... a murmuring Siren

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