Splitting the cases

[wera racer]

Thanks for the tips and pics, guys. Much appreciated. Anyone got a picture of what a welded second gear looks like?

[sharpy]

Its nothing special. Just a gear thats been welded a little on one side. As in 12-2 oclock and 6-8 oclock poisition. NOT fully all the way around like mine got done by a speciality performance shop. Gear went blue and soft. Was not impressed. Oh and make sure everything is spotless.

[wera racer]

I'm reassembing the cases and I've been fighting the shifter pawl all day and can't get it to work properly. If I just lightly snug up the the two pieces of sheet metal that are held by the four phillips screws, it seems to work okay and will shift through the gears. But once I tighten them even a little, it won't shift.

When I disassmbled the cases I accidentally let the pawl ratchet mechanism come out, releasing the two springs and ratchet wedges. Is it possible I've got them in the wrong places? The manual says something about one being narrower than the other and that one should go towards the shifter. The both look the same, but that's what I'm going to try next. I don't know what else it could possibly be.

Thanks, guys!
Rick

[wera racer]

That fixed it. I had those little buggers in the wrong place. Shifts fine now.

On to the cylinders, pistons and head. Before teardown the motor burned some oil until it got good and hot. I replaced the valve seals twice, which did nothing, so I'm guessing it needs valve guides, at the least.

I'm a decent amateur mechanic, but no machinest. In your opinion is it better to take the cylinder and head to a professional to sort out and determine what needs to be done (pistons, rings, valve guides, etc.), or should I tackle this myself?

Since it's a roadracing bike, there will be future (and perhaps frequent) teardowns, so the more I can learn to do myself, the better off I'll be.

However, since I pay retail and the pro wholesale, what I save on labor may just go towards the parts. I just don't have the tools (at least not yet) and expertise to accurately mic pistons to cylinders and know what to look for and what to look out for.

Any advice?
Rick

[chef1366]

Where are you at? Maybe someone on the board knows a good engine guy in your area?

[wera racer]

Where are you at? Maybe someone on the board knows a good engine guy in your area?

There's one here in Memphis: Leo Goff at Memphis Motorwerks. He did the jugs and pistons on an 1970 R5 build I did last year. I just like to learn how to do as much as I can myself.

[Nessism]

The service manual details all the basic checks. Measure cylinder bore, piston diameter, valve stem diameter, valve to guide clearance, cylinder head flatness, and valve seat condition and width. These checks are not difficult but tools are required.

If you really get serious you can do your own valve job and replace the guides yourself but that involves yet more tools. I've done my own valve jobs before but haven't replaced any guides yet. The process was fairly easy but requires slow methodical work so not everyone has the patients for it.

[wera racer]

Thanks, Ed.

The pistons and rings were all within specs and I'm giving them a thorough cleaning. Interestingly, though, one piston has a very bright spot on top where the exhaust valve relief is and there is quite a bit of carbon on most of the valves. I wonder if the carbon built up so bad on the valve that it was hitting the piston and "polishing" it? Strange.