New-2-Me '80 GS750L

[Testarossa]

Do it Testarossa! whats one more

Motorcrossx23 - checked and subscribed to your thread, keep up the good work!

Only one problem with that. I can't post updates from the bottom of my grave.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Busy, busy , busy. The Wifey is out of town so I got some time to spare in the shop in the evenings
Yesterday I stayed after work and sandblasted some rusty hardware that would fit in the blasting cabinet. Battery tray, foot peg mount, side stand, brake and shifter levers. The remaining chrome was shot on all but the foot pad on the brake lever, so I will most likely mask that portion off because however I coat this part of the pedal, I am sure that would wear from use...



Then tonight when I got home I tackled the original rusty tank by using a method I originally saw on SOHC4.com and then again on dotheton.com. Rave reviews on both forums and my tank was unusable the way it was so what the heck.
Bought a bottle of "The Works" toilet bowel cleaner, box of baking soda, and rubbing alcohol. All items were $3.00 total.
I removed the sender and petcock, taped them off with duct tape and poured in the bottle of "The Works"
*WARNING* this stuff is an acid and should be treated as such. Rubber gloves and eye protection is recommended!



I swizzled around in the tank, stopping and supporting the tank in various positions . Removed the tape on the fill cap opening a few times and after about 45 minutes all was shiney... NO MORE RUST!
I then pulled the tape and drained the tank out the petcock hole. Dried with the area around the hole and re-taped everything. Mixed up a gallon of water with approx 3 tablespoons of the the Baking soda and poured it in the tank to neutralize the acid of "The Works". Swizzled it all around for a while the drained it.
Next, re-taping yet again, I poured in the rubbing alcohol a final rinse and absorb the remaining water. After dumping that I removed All the tape and put a hair dryer in the fill neck and let it blow until the tank was warm to the touch to dry everything out (approx 15 minutes).
The final step re-taped it one last time on the pet cock and sending unit holes and poured in some Marvel Mystery Oil I had. The I reinstalled the fill cap and swished it around to coat the entire surface to prevent it from flash rusting.
It is now sitting on a white towel so I can tell if the welded seam has any pin holes by the tell-tale pink marks from the Marvel Mystery Oil.
Sorry, no pics but trust me, this works GREAT, I was left with a shiny galvanized appearance inside the previously unusably rusted tank.

[niclpnut]

cool tip

Thanks,

Nic.

[81ZUKI75]

...Then tonight when I got home I tackled the original rusty tank by using a method I originally saw on SOHC4.com and then again on dotheton.com. Rave reviews on both forums and my tank was unusable the way it was so what the heck.
Bought a bottle of "The Works" toilet bowel cleaner, box of baking soda, and rubbing alcohol. All items were $3.00 total.

Cool...I've been having a hard time locating "washing soda" to try elecrolysis on a spare tank for my T-model so I may try this instead.

It's funny that I just came across SOHC4 today (researching a K6 for a possible project) .

Thanks for sharing...

[cowboyup3371]

Cool...I've been having a hard time locating "washing soda" to try elecrolysis on a spare tank for my T-model so I may try this instead.

Thanks for sharing...

Zuki, it's in the same aisle as the regular laundry soap. I would have picked up some but I'm a little low on cash so I'm doing it with baking soda this weekend on my footpeg mounts.

[Hoosier Daddy]

81zuki75... This is what you are looking for, like cowboyup3371 said it should be in the laundry detergents aisle.

[81ZUKI75]

But this is all I've been able to find...


May go on a hunting expedition today (still snow on the ground here)

Now let's get back on point. What's doin' with the L today

[Hoosier Daddy]

HA-Ha! Ok I can take a hint...
I scanned the line drawing out of the manual and have been changing things up a little with MS Paint. Easier to click "undo" if I make a mistake than to try and re-weld something back on.



Lowered gauges and staighter bars, no passenger peg triangles and a seat that's Bratstyle. I shortened the rear fender a little instead of removing it all together, so I think I'll keep the rear frame extensions for the mounting.
Happy with the look, today I introduced the frame to mister Sawz-all and removed the peg / exhaust mount triangles, the inner splash gaurd and helmet lock mounts. Then I took my rotory burr then a sanding disk in the diegrinder and cleaned up the welds remains.





I plan on running without the centerstand but sure like using it to service the bikes so I kept those mounts on, I can put the stand on and raise the bike on that when maintenance requires it.
Previous builds I sandblasted the frame, but that was in the summertime, too cold outside here to pull that off now. I have been sanding it but it is slow going. I will probably end up laying cardboard in the shop and trying to strip it myself... but Monday I will call around and get prices for getting this frame dipped.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Wasn't very patient waiting to call around. This morning I got the heater going in the shop and decided to give it a test and see how easy the paint removed with a partial gallon of Stripper I had left over... and next thing you know it is noon and I am cleaning up the remains!



I need to go get some etching primer and get thing sealed up before it gets humid out!

[Hoosier Daddy]

I've been doing a lot of disassembly, cleaning, sandblasting, and painting of the old parts. How do you paint when it single digits? easy preheat the parts and paint in the "Mens Room" here at home, run out in the garage and shoot a coat, then bring them back in to the heater and let it cure. Swear it gets about 90 in my little bathroom.



Big news is I picked up a Kerker header with a SuperTrapp tunable muffler from Delbert24 here. Looks a little rusty on the back side of the pipes but has no dents. I am so stoked.. Thanks Pal!




Once it gets here, if the the chrome doesn't clean up I will remove /mask off the muffler and sandblast the header. Then shoot it with black high-temp paint at work and cure it in the Paint Departments bake oven there. Being a Maintenance Super has it's perks!



Yes, a frame fits in there quite nicely!



Heat wave here tonight, up in the 20's... tomorrow it's supposed to get above freezing! I have been out in the shop with Simple Green and a scrub-brush working on the engine. Seems to be cleaning up nicely. Maybe if I get off work in time considering it's a Saturday I can take it out of the shop and actually rinse it off!

[SVSooke]

Absolutely love my Supertrapp.Got the aluminum can version.Here's a vid of mine

Hope my carb work's cured the rich in the vid you see That is with a full set of disks,have quited it down since

[Cougar]

it's looking good.
what are you doing with your old 4 into 2 exhaust?

[Hoosier Daddy]

Cougar: It's hanging in the rafters of the shop for safe keeping at the moment. If you are interested I can snap a couple pics of it. Lord knows I can use the build funds no matter how small.

Sunday it got to 30, I took the engine and an airhose outside the shop O/H door and used my siphon gun and a bottle of simple green and gave it a degreasing, then a hot water rinse and brought it back in front of the heater. I sat with it and a shop towel for over an hour rubbing off the remainders while it was drying.

Shocks and side stand are re-assembled, frame is clamped on the portable "Work-mate" bench for final cleaning / detailing while I am waiting for the next warm spell to thow some primer on it.

I think next on deck will be the gauges to come inside where it's warm and work on in the evenings.

[Testarossa]

And here, I was worried about painting my parts when it was 50. Good thing you have a "men's room." I don't think I would get away with freshly painted parts in the house.

[81ZUKI75]

Gauge Rework

I think next on deck will be the gauges to come inside where it's warm and work on in the evenings.

If you're doing internal cleaning, take some good pics from disassembly all the way through. I've been through my E-model gauges but they're easy-peasy compared to the L and T clocks.

My T model tach gets a little jumpy after 40 or 50 miles of cruising and I've been putting off opening it up .