1983 GS1100ES Engine Rebuild.

[niclpnut]

Well, I had a day off today so I went on a trek to find a space heater for my garage, and painting supplies.

My setup





I had debated on how I wanted to paint the cases, but two factors ( kids that like to "help" daddy build the engine, and limited space) directed me to close the cases, and bolt on the covers.

Used Threebond 1194 for the case sealing. All new plastics/rubbers used.

With covers on, taping and final wipe down before painting.



Using this:



First Coat:




Third, and a bit more heavy coat:



Seems to be turning out nicely. Keeping a fine bristle brush close in case of a runner.

Underbelly tomorrow after work.


Nic

[niclpnut]

Think I might pick up a high temp clear coat to top everything off. Paint looks good, but doesnt have quite the sheen or DEEP black color as the suzuki stock black.

Hopefully the clear coat will give it just a touch more sheen and also offer some protection when cleaning in the future.

Nic

[niclpnut]

After looking at the satin finish from the PJ1 paint for a couple days, I went back to Alter Ego Cycles and picked up a few cans of PJ1 Gloss.

I wasn't satisfied with the satin...The finish was a bit more grey than i wanted and lacked the luster of factory.

After buffing I refinished with 2 gloss coats and I have to say, I'm quite happy with the finish...Not too flashy but with just the right amount of a glisten.



Today, I finished installing the clutch:



My OEM fibers and plates looked great so I decided to reinstall them. I encountered a bit of confusion when I was reinstalling as my package included 10 fibers, and 11 plates (including the plate behind the piano wire). After sorting through numerous threads I was able to identify that the 83 clutch offered an additional fiber and plate to compensate for the added torque.

Also, the added washer included in the assembly threw me for a loop. Typically I write down or document every step of disassembly, however I neglected to do so for the clutch, and my manuals were of no assistance, lacking to mention this "mystery" spacer/washer.

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However, following Posplayr's refab and further clutch rehab I'm still slightly confused. Does the washer go just behind the pump gear or does it line up behind the larger washer and seat against the bearing? PM sent

I went ahead and installed the washer behind #2 in the blowup as I seem to recall that is how rapidray said it was done.

Installed ignition plate:



It is the stock ignition...however I've encountered some good deals on Dynatech items...what is the advantage to using them as opposed to OEM that seem to work fine?

Piston's/Cylinders are next. I don't have any ring compressors and am considering trying to use my fingers to "pinch" them in.


I'll let ya'll know how that goes tomorrow..

Cheers,

Nic

[7981GS]

She's coming along very well!
I can only dream that mine will be looking that good someday...



Daniel

[niclpnut]

It's just a matter of patience and time. Finding the courage to open things up is the hardest step. The rest depends on determination, resourcefulness and the almighty $ being the unfortunate deal breaker.

Nic

[Nicholaschase29]

It is the stock ignition...however I've encountered some good deals on Dynatech items...what is the advantage to using them as opposed to OEM that seem to work fine?

If you were to get a Dyna 2000 ignition you would get a less aggressive advance curve while starting the bike which will reduce the chance that the bike kicks back against the starter motor while cranking. Additionally you also get a programmable rev-limiter that will protect your engine against blown shifts. You can also adjust the timing advance curve for the bike throughout the rev range. (I leave mine on the most advanced curve though). Lastly you can set the total ignition advance easily with the marking on the aftermarket plate and rotor.

There is also a wire you can use to retard the ignition timing for turbo/nitrous applications or you can use it as a built in safety switch (i.e. your kickstand is down so it doesn't allow the coils to discharge and create a spark).

[niclpnut]

I was going to install an Ape clutch kit I got on the Bay for $15.

My Oem friction plates looked good so I kept them, but i did use the HD springs...I like a bit of a stiff clutch so that's what i'm hoping for. I'll reserve the APE fibers for the red beast if she starts to slip.

Cams have been shipped. Thanks to Nicholachase29 I've got a nice set of 1150 cams to add to the project.

Nic

[niclpnut]

I'm more of a mechanical guy and the electronics tend to mystify me. Dyna S, Dyna 2000, Dyna 4000.

Street, Prostreet, Drag in that order?

If i could pick up a dyna 4000pro for 100 bucks including ignition plate, would it still be applicable to street use or is it only for high RPM?

I don't need or want overkill but to supplement aggressive street riding.

Nic

[niclpnut]

Oh and since I reassembled and painted, obviously i couldn't cure it in an oven so i used my Wagner heat gun in rotation around the cases to hopefully aid in the paint structure.

Seems ok. I've accidentally whacked it a couple times with my socket wrench and the paint held up. I did cure my cylinders and starter cover in the oven and god damn did it stink up the house LOL.


My wife almost killed me. HOWEVER, the finish turned out great and she was smiling after i showed her how everything looked together.

Nic

[Nicholaschase29]

Looks like you'd need different coils if you got the Dyna 4000:

http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/downloads/instruct/DP4000-1.pdf

Looks like it requires 0.7 ohm ones - stock is 3 ohm.




If i were you I'd get a 2000 if you can find a nice deal on one or else i'd forget about it. I had a DLR-200 I bought (but never installed) for like $30 New on eBay. It's just a rev limiter. If you're not running anything fancy i'd stick to the stock electrics (if you're on a budget) and maybe get one of those for protection. If money is less of an issue the dyna 2000 is nice.

You can change your overall timing advance by radially slotting the holes on the signal generator plate and then using some math to determine how much of a turn will give what amount of advance/retard. (even here I doubt you'll be able to feel any difference "by the seat of your pants" by advancing your ignition --- besides more kick back on starting as it'll move the ENTIRE ignition timing).

[niclpnut]

Pistons installed and cylinder jugs in place.







Next up is the head. There was quite a bit of debrees once everything was dissasembled.

Used a milk crate and plastic soufle cups to organize my valve components:





Valves Before:




With the valves cleaned and lapped its time for reinstall.



Little painting on the head and cover and it will be time to pop everything back on the frame.

Nic

[niclpnut]

well with the valves lapped and everything cleaned up and put back together, It was time to put the engine back in the frame.



Used my trusty milk crate to get it off the floor, straddled the bike and dead lifted it in. Almost perfectly lined up.

Using a jack, I raised it up to get the motor mounts secured and poof!



Did a leak test on the valves and they are holding gas, so looks like I'm good there. I'll Paint the head and cover this afternoon then it's on to installation and valve adjustment.


Nic

[niclpnut]

Cams bolted down and lined up.




Valve adjustment now. Really tight atm. Staying on the fat side of .04 and using wood screw for fine tuning.



valve cover ready for reinstall.




Nic

[Nicholaschase29]

You really need to degree those cams if you haven't. Rather than buying aftermarket slotted sprockets I slotted mine myself with a die-grinder and a carbide cutting tool. You can set them for high end power or low end. It really makes a pretty big difference. I had mine set at 104 intake and 106 exhaust. If i were to do it again i'd go 105 intake and 107 exhaust. I guess rule of thumb is to set the exhaust 2 degrees higher than the intake to maximize the scavanging effect. 106/108 will give higher top end, while 104/106 will give low end torque. Somewhere in that range is good.

Good Luck.

Nick

[blowerbike]

HOLD ON!!! Looking at your picture (from the angle I can see) you have the cams lined up INCORRECTLY! You need to have 21 pins between the timing marks & I only count 20!!! Check to be sure! You will be sorry if it's wrong!!! Ray.

ray am i loosing my mind...it has been a while sense i been inside a GS but i thought from memory it was 20 pins?