Steering damper might be a worthwhile safety investment depending on how it rides...
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GS1100- "Project NimRod"- Shafty
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 13969
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
Following up on earlier post I read... quite a few people have reported positive effects from raising the back end with longer shocks, by lowering the front you have achieved effectively the same thing. You can probably go "so far" without affecting stability badly, I think the first signs will be "superbike" headshake but I might be wrong.
Steering damper might be a worthwhile safety investment depending on how it rides...1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
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Awall
Thanks Salty.
Here are the pics of final paint. Might add some black stripes. I'm happy with it though it's not perfect.
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Awall
I also added a strap accross the mid section of the seat. It will be hidden under the bum stop but provides good wear protection and a nice detail when in passenger mode.
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Hoosier Daddy
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Awall
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Runningdog
Awall, love your detailing on this build....hope you're also posting this thing on Do The Ton......
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Awall
I had everything ready to go today and had a problem getting the bike to start. I wasn't getting any juice and it wasn't turning over. With the tank off I noticed the coils and wiring harness up front were in sore need of a cleaning. Alot of gunk, oil and dirt covering everything. So I degressed the coils, electrical connections and wiring harness quick connect blocks. While doing this I found a white quick connect block that had at one time gotten hot and melted alittle...and after handling it the plastic started breaking apart. So I spent the afternoon direct soldering the wires to remove the connection. I noticed when I purchased the bike that the start switch seemed not to be working everytime you push it. After doing this soldering I found that the connection was most melted where these start wires are. Once I wrapped everything good and tight and hooked up the new switch and button...IT FIRED WITH EVERY PUSH OF THE BUTTON...YES!
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Awall
Even though I could have buttoned up the bike to ride tomorrow...I just couldn't help but tear apart the battery area of the frame. I want to relocate and hide things as much as possible here. It's just a preference with the cafe racer look I want. I'm wanting to find a good way to mount everything on the bottom of the seat..safely and in a manner where I can access the fuse box and have enough ventilation. I will be moving the stock battery forward and sideways directly behind the airbox vent. It wont hide it for now but it stays near the stock location and gives me that uncluttered look. I have two other battery alternatives to the big stock battery to play with later. I have one small sealed battery 12v, 1.3ah - but don't know if it will be enough. I also have 12v, nimh (sub C) 3300mah packs from some r/c applications. ANY IMPUT ON THESE BATTERIES?
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Hoosier Daddy
Not with the draw on your system the starter places. The guage of wire alone would be prohibitive... I would be willing to bet just the headlamp uses enough watts to quickly kill the Sub-C pack. Of corse there is mathamatical formulas to figure it out.
Ohms law and such.
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Awall
I figued as such. I just might go with a gel battery later..should be alittle smaller. Thank for the input Hoosier.
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Awall
Here is what the underside of my seat is looking like. I'm trying to make everything as neat as possible for times when I need to take it off. I don't forsee taking the seat off unless I have electrical issues. The full size battery will disconnect and come out the now open frame. I also want to install external battery connections just in case I need jump the bike in an emergency or charge overnight.
Everything fits fine in the open spaces between the crossmembers and replacing parts will be pretty simple now that they are layed out piece by piece.
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Awall
I added this extra piping/trim between the bum stop cushion and the metal edge. Feel like it needed something to finish it off.
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Awall
Since I couldn't help myself from tearing into the rear electronics... I decided to solder all the connections and remove all the quick connect blocks. I also did Jim's one point ground from the R/R. I think I forgot to ground the starter solenoid because the bike won't start now and I ran out of daylight.
Since all the electronics are relocated to the bottom of the seat...and I did the one point ground...is the best way to ground the solenoid to the (-) battery or the wiring harness ground?
Once I figure out what's going on I hope to start her up tomorrow, and take it for a test drive.
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Originally posted by Awall View PostSince I couldn't help myself from tearing into the rear electronics... I decided to solder all the connections and remove all the quick connect blocks. I also did Jim's one point ground from the R/R. I think I forgot to ground the starter solenoid because the bike won't start now and I ran out of daylight.
Since all the electronics are relocated to the bottom of the seat...and I did the one point ground...is the best way to ground the solenoid to the (-) battery or the wiring harness ground?
Once I figure out what's going on I hope to start her up tomorrow, and take it for a test drive.
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Awall
Did mod after pic was taken. Thanks for your help posplayr
. Ill get some finished pics up tomorrow.
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