PM sent about the seat.
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79 GS850 - Shooting for cross country reliability on a college budget
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Lunchbox88
Originally posted by azr View Post
PM sent about the seat.
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Don-lo
I think this controller is only used on the 78-79 GS1000 and the 79 GS850, but that is a substantial number of people here. If it comes with bare wires and instructions, we can connect it to our stock pigtails. I think many people would want them. Work up a price for the current unit, without speedo reading, and include a generous profit for yourself, and let us know.
BTW, I may have a numberplate for the gears, but I need to check
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Lunchbox88
Originally posted by Don-lo View PostI think this controller is only used on the 78-79 GS1000 and the 79 GS850, but that is a substantial number of people here. If it comes with bare wires and instructions, we can connect it to our stock pigtails. I think many people would want them. Work up a price for the current unit, without speedo reading, and include a generous profit for yourself, and let us know.
BTW, I may have a numberplate for the gears, but I need to check
If you have one of those number plates that would be awesome.
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Lunchbox88
Just got back from spring break a couple days ago and figured I would post a little update.
First off, I spoke with my friend over break about making more of those turn signal control units. We think that if there is enough interest, we could make them and sell them for about $45 shipped USPS to the lower 48. That said, we could only make about 5 a week max. Also if people are interested in a self cancelling one, we think we could sell them for about $75 if we get the parts at the price we were quoted from the manufacture. If you guys think its a good idea, I will post it in the electronics section of the forum.
Now to my bike. I finally got around to replacing the clutch springs and checking out the fibers. All the fibers looked good, but the stock (Im assuming original) springs were noticeably shorter than the EBC ones I put in. Clutch isnt much harder to pull, but when you first start it, it drags a tiny bit then goes away. I ordered another clutch cable too just to be safe. Once that was out of the way I spent alot of time looking at my options for the petcock because I walked into my garage the other night and there was a puddle of gas on the ground . After spending about 3 hours reading gsr, and talking to some friends I just went with the pingel manual one. I have one on my ATV and its really solid, so I guess we will see. Im not really worried about forgetting to turn it off, as it is already in my procedure with my other bike. Also I decided it was time for steal braided brake lines, Im tired of the squishy lever, and if there is anything I should spend money on, its my brakes. I will get some pics up of that installation as well as the petcock once everything comes in. After that, its synchronize the carbs, and make a luggage rack. Just 3 weeks till we leave for our ride, I may be cutting this a little close.Last edited by Guest; 04-06-2011, 12:06 AM.
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Lunchbox88
Update - 4/20/11
Well guys, with finals approaching, time to work on my bike has dwindled a little, but I have gotten a few things accomplished with what spare time I have. I installed a new pingel petcock, and I got to say Im very satisfied with it. I did have to enlarge the hole because it was bigger in diameter, and grind a little off of one of the corners of the adapter plate to get it to sit flush.
I also managed to get some new stainless brake lines installed, and wow what a difference. Went from being able to pull the lever to the bar to having nice respectable brakes.
The last big thing I was able to accomplish was to uncave my exhaust headers. It looks like someone rode my bike into a curb at 30mph and nearly crimped the pipe. I rented a slide hammer, welded a grade 8 nut to the head of a bolt, and welded the bolt to each of the dents, then the slide hammer screws into the nut and hammer away. Worked pretty well, only caused a small hole which was easily fixed by the welder.
The biggest problem I am having now is getting it to run better. Even with stock jets, a sealed airbox and new intake o-rings, its running really rich, bogs under alot of throttle, and has a hanging idle. Anything ideas on were to look?
***PICS****
New Petcock
New Brake Lines
Exhaust (pre fixed)
Welding setup (Borrowed form a buddy)
Fixing the exhaust
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Tim Tom
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Lunchbox88
Haha thanks. Turns out my points gaps were off. So after fixing that and then readjusting the timing it runs a better but still seems to be rich. If from idle I give it full throttle, it just dies. If Im at a low rpm and give it alot of throttle it bogs. Anyone know what the jetting for a stock airbox with a kerker 4-1 should be?
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resjudicata
Originally posted by Lunchbox88 View PostHaha thanks. Turns out my points gaps were off. So after fixing that and then readjusting the timing it runs a better but still seems to be rich. If from idle I give it full throttle, it just dies. If Im at a low rpm and give it alot of throttle it bogs. Anyone know what the jetting for a stock airbox with a kerker 4-1 should be?
BTW, are you in engineering school in Rolla?
Chris
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Lunchbox88
Originally posted by resjudicata View PostGenerally, if you whack the throttle open and it dies or bogs then you are lean. Do you have any other indications making you think you are rich?
BTW, are you in engineering school in Rolla?
Chris
Yes I am a Mechanical Engineering student in Rolla.
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My brother graduated from Rolla with an electical engineering degree.
Throw up a couple pics of your plugs if you can.83 GS1100ES rebuild:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170032
Budget GSXR Conversion:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=200563
New to me bike: 2008 B-KING
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resjudicata
Originally posted by Lunchbox88 View PostYeah, the plugs seem to be pretty black. When it finally stops raining here in the Midwest Im going to do a pull and then check plugs again. Since its been raining I have just been tackling the front forks.
Yes I am a Mechanical Engineering student in Rolla.
The reasons I say that a bog when whacking the throttle open usually means that the carburation is lean is that when you open the throttle you are adding air and making the mixture lean. The carb has some way of making up for that. If you were running too rich you would have problems running constant speed but likely not on acceleration.
With our VM carbs when you open the throttle you are raising the slides and yanking the needle out of the jet and allowing more fuel in. However, you have to be careful whacking the throttle open on these carbs. If you open them too much too quick you will end up with to little fuel going in until the rpm's raise enough to increase the air velocity which will draw the fuel out of the needle jet. On these carbs you want to roll them open rather than whack them open.
So, I'm still not entirely convinced that your carbs aren't running lean yet.
Chris
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Lunchbox88
Originally posted by resjudicata View PostHow old are the plugs?
The reasons I say that a bog when whacking the throttle open usually means that the carburation is lean is that when you open the throttle you are adding air and making the mixture lean. The carb has some way of making up for that. If you were running too rich you would have problems running constant speed but likely not on acceleration.
With our VM carbs when you open the throttle you are raising the slides and yanking the needle out of the jet and allowing more fuel in. However, you have to be careful whacking the throttle open on these carbs. If you open them too much too quick you will end up with to little fuel going in until the rpm's raise enough to increase the air velocity which will draw the fuel out of the needle jet. On these carbs you want to roll them open rather than whack them open.
So, I'm still not entirely convinced that your carbs aren't running lean yet.
Chris
Heres 2 plugs (1 and 4).
I did wipe some carbon off of the strap befoe I took the picture so it was a bit darker.
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resjudicata
Leaking float needle seat valves will definitely cause an over rich condition.
It sounds like there could be more things involved here. I looked at this thread and can't remember everything you have done so far.
Have you done the valve clearances on the motor?
Have you checked compression on each cylinder?
Have you done a good dip of carb bodies and blasted all passages thoroughly?
Have you done o-rings on the carbs?
Are the float levels properly set?
Have you properly sealed the airbox?
Do you have a new air filter?
Have you vacuum sync'd/balanced the carbs?
Until the above are all done we can't really determine what or where your problem comes from. BTW, are all 4 of your sparkplugs the same as the two you show in the photos?
Chris
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Lunchbox88
Have you done the valve clearances on the motor? Yes
Have you checked compression on each cylinder?Not yet but seems good
Have you done a good dip of carb bodies and blasted all passages thoroughly?Yes
Have you done o-rings on the carbs?Yes
Are the float levels properly set?When I first got it, ill check again
Have you properly sealed the airbox?Yes
Do you have a new air filter?Filter is in good condition and clean
Have you vacuum sync'd/balanced the carbs?Yes
All the plugs stay about the same color with just small variances. Z1 doesnt seem to have the float needle seats, anyone no where I can get them that has fast shipping? Ill take the carbs apart when I get home this afternoon and check floats and cleanliness.
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Lunchbox88
Seems that it may not be the float valves. I found that the drips are coming from the gas tank Does anyone know if there are any quick semi temporary solutions. It seems to be a small pin hole in a previous fix (pics below). I plan to eventually por-15 the whole tank but I leave for my trip next monday (the 9th) and with finals I dont have time to do it this week. I was thinking maybe something like the por-15 epoxy putty or something might hold up long enough. Any suggestions would be very appreciated.
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