'80 GS550L to Cafe Racer

[psyguy]

as far as i know, GS bikes with leading axle forks also had a small increase in the forks (triple tree) angle (to give more of a chopper look) so the leading axle design was introduced to compensate for that increase angle, so drveabillity would not be compromised

[Flyboy]

As far as I can figure, the triple clamps have nothing to do with rake, the rake is built into the steering head on the frame.
Have a look at your bottom triple, you will see the shaft is fitted 90 degrees, perpendicular to the actual T, so it make no difference what T you use, a "G", "E", "L" they all the same, the shaft is fitted 90 degrees to the T.

The only way of changing the rake would be to cut the head loose, reposition and weld it all back up again, or more easily, by changing the length of the forks, longer forks would lift the front of the bike, effectivly giving more rake and shorter forks would lower the front end, effectivly giving less rake.
This of course can also be achieved by reposioning the forks higher or lower in the triple clamps, to a point.

Please correct me if I am wrong.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Ya see thats exactly what I am talking about... If you were to draw a line from the triple through the center line of the front axel, a leading fork would be more of a rake not less to "compensate for that increase angle" if the chopper look was because of an angel built into the triple trees.
Sorry to hijack, guess I need to start searching the topic. The manual does show two different castor angles for an E and an L.

[Flyboy]

Correct, leading edge fork = more rake, hense you want the standard forks on the Cafe Racer to bring that rake back in a bit, but whether you fitted them to the "L" tee's or to the "E" tees, would make no difference in the change of rake, you would be effecting change purely due to moving the axle itself from ahead of the fork to under the fork.................easy peasy see, no mess, no fuss, clear as mud.

[Colorado CJ]

On with the project. I started rewiring the bike last night. Everything is mounted to a 3/16" aluminum plate under the tank. Just enough room for everything including a 4-cell LiFE battery (just to the right of the rectifier.

I only got a few wires shortened/connected last night. I'm using very low resistance r/c connectors for most connections.

[psyguy]

really nicely packaged! i never thought there would be THAT much space available under the tank...

[Redneck]

Wow I will say that I am impressed myself I never thought there was that much room either. When I get my frame back I am going to have to take a look. I like the idea of hiding the electronics package. Nice ingenuity.

Paul

[Colorado CJ]

Yeah, I was a little surprised at all the room too. A little tight, but I fit everything in including room for the battery.

Finished the rewiring job. All I have left to do is put the battery connector on (will do that when the battery arrives). Here are a few pictures. (I'll have to reroute the one clear wire loom as it is too noticeable there)






Left over bits



Look ma! No electrics showing.

[Hoosier Daddy]

I KNEW this bike looked familiar!

[Colorado CJ]

I uploaded a video of the bike starting up for the first time since rewiring and installing shorty exhaust.

The bike actually sounds much better than this, The video was shot on my DSLR with the built in mic, so the sound isn't so good. The exhaust note sounds much lower in person.

The air sound is from the inlets. That will be quieter when I install the pod filters. It will also run better/go back to idle faster when I rejet the carbs.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DHQeOPMHPsI

[Tim Tom]

Nice work on the electrics! That is one of things I dislike about a lot of cafe builds. I love being able to see right through the frame under the seat. It looks great! Keep at it.

[Colorado CJ]

Thanks, yeah that was one of my main design goals for the build, to hide the electrics as much as possible. Trying to get the bike as minimalist looking as I can. That is why I'd like to find a set of wire wheels.

[Colorado CJ]

So, I jerry rigged a battery to the bike (my LiFe battery isn't here yet), to test ride the bike. Throttle response is good with no load, but under any load, the bike really stumbles and can't get up in the medium to high r.p.m. range without coaxing.

I haven't messed with the jets yet, so I knew it would be pretty bad.

What is a decent starting point for rejetting after adding a more open exhaust and pods? It has 92.5 jets in right now, I was thinking going up a couple of sizes to around 100 size. Keep in mind I'm at ~5,000 ft and most of my riding is between 6,000ft-10,000 ft.

I guess I'll buy some numbered drills and drill out the jets a step at a time and test. Once I find the right size, I can buy that size jet and not use the drilled ones.

Any pointers?

[FreshStart]

So, I jerry rigged a battery to the bike (my LiFe battery isn't here yet), to test ride the bike. Throttle response is good with no load, but under any load, the bike really stumbles and can't get up in the medium to high r.p.m. range without coaxing.

I haven't messed with the jets yet, so I knew it would be pretty bad.

What is a decent starting point for rejetting after adding a more open exhaust and pods? It has 92.5 jets in right now, I was thinking going up a couple of sizes to around 100 size. Keep in mind I'm at ~5,000 ft and most of my riding is between 6,000ft-10,000 ft.

I guess I'll buy some numbered drills and drill out the jets a step at a time and test. Once I find the right size, I can buy that size jet and not use the drilled ones.

Any pointers?

jets are like 3 bucks a pop id just buy a couple sets personally

[psyguy]

you're not likely to get good results with just changing the fuel jets as that doesn't address the other relevant issues - the pilot air jet size and the slide lift and the needle shape, so I think best get the dynojet kit.