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Yes once you get the carbs balanced and adjust the mixture screws that blueing should disappear. One thing you might want to check tonight is the spark on all the plugs, maybe that's the reason for #2&3? but really once you do the synch that could fix everything. Huge bonus it's not leaking or pushing blue!!Rob
1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533
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Compression :
1=135 psi
2=135 psi
3=130 psi
4=140 psi
Plugs 2 & 3 are closer to tan in color now and the sync is complete. The bad news is the petcock was leaking at a pretty good clip while it was sitting on the bench while I was doing the sync. I ordered a new one.
I'm thinking with compression like that, smooth shift, no blue smoke, and no sign of oil leaks, that I might have a keeper. Time for the new tires and rebuilt forks to be swapped on the bike.
cgsigpic
83 GS1100g
2006 Triumph Sprint ST 1050
Ohhhh!........Torque sweet Temptress.........always whispering.... a murmuring Siren
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Great news Charlie, fantastic!!Rob
1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533
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Yesterday I spent about 11 hours swapping out front ends between the two bikes, changing tires to the 83 and getting the headlight and wiring straight on the bike. Did a little 25 mile jaunt about 8:30 last evening and then a more proper ride this afternoon.
My new petcock didn't arrive Saturday and I really wanted to ride it so I put in the petcock from the 82 hoping it would do. 15 mile down the road no gas. I switched it to prime and off I went. I've found petcocks fail either by giving you gas when they shouldn't (Won't turn off) or they just won't give you gas. I've had both on this bike.
Had the 83 out for a little test flight.
Here's the bluing I was talking about. Tried some "Blue-Job" on it and in about 15 minutes I had 2&3 looking like 1 & 4.
Tested the charging system by putting a volt meter on the battery while running.
1100 rpm= 14.20 V
1500 rpm= 15.45 v
4500 rpm= 15.90 V
Anyone have an opinion on those numbers?
cgsigpic
83 GS1100g
2006 Triumph Sprint ST 1050
Ohhhh!........Torque sweet Temptress.........always whispering.... a murmuring Siren
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Originally posted by Charlie G View PostYesterday I spent about 11 hours swapping out front ends between the two bikes, changing tires to the 83 and getting the headlight and wiring straight on the bike. Did a little 25 mile jaunt about 8:30 last evening and then a more proper ride this afternoon.
My new petcock didn't arrive Saturday and I really wanted to ride it so I put in the petcock from the 82 hoping it would do. 15 mile down the road no gas. I switched it to prime and off I went. I've found petcocks fail either by giving you gas when they shouldn't (Won't turn off) or they just won't give you gas. I've had both on this bike......
......Tested the charging system by putting a volt meter on the battery while running.
1100 rpm= 14.20 V
1500 rpm= 15.45 v
4500 rpm= 15.90 V
Anyone have an opinion on those numbers?
cg
Check to see if the R/R is an oem style (5 wire) or aftermarket/Honda style (six wire). My guess is it's an oem style that is toast. If it's a six wire, find out what wire on your bike the sense wire (usually brown) on the R/R is tied into.
I've never seen an oem R/R put out over 14.5 VDC when everything was working properly. I've never seen an aftermarket unit get over 15 VDC when wired in correctly and fully functional.Last edited by Griffin; 07-27-2014, 10:19 PM.sigpic
SUZUKI: 1978 GS1000E; 1980 GS1000G; 1982 GS650E; 1982 GS1100G; 1982 GS1100E; 1985 GS700ES
HONDA: 1981 CB900F Super Sport
KAWASAKI: 1981 KZ550A-2; 1984 ZX750A-2 (aka GPZ750); 1984 KZ700A-1
YAMAHA: 1983 XJ750RK Seca
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Originally posted by Griffin View PostYikes. Your regulator is not regulating. Check the voltage across the stator legs while the bike is idling and when it is at 5,000 rpms. Depending upon the style of stator, you should see anything from about 62 VAC at 5K rpm to about 90 VAC. Anything below that is bad, I've never heard of one getting higher than that.
Check to see if the R/R is an oem style (5 wire) or aftermarket/Honda style (six wire). My guess is it's an oem style that is toast. If it's a six wire, find out what wire on your bike the sense wire (usually brown) on the R/R is tied into.
I've never seen an oem R/R put out over 14.5 VDC when everything was working properly. I've never seen an aftermarket unit get over 15 VDC when wired in correctly and fully functional.
cgsigpic
83 GS1100g
2006 Triumph Sprint ST 1050
Ohhhh!........Torque sweet Temptress.........always whispering.... a murmuring Siren
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
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- 35619
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You don't need to worry about the stator making juice. You just need to control it. Most likely a grounding issue, but maybe the R/R is toast. Get one of them there SH-775's and wire it up.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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How was the ride Charlie?? how was the actual ride??? bike looks great by the way. And Ed's got some good sugestions, clean up the conections and try again before you buy anything and then buy a SH-775 (although both my bikes still have the Honda R/R's on them). But if that is a stock R/R $70 for a new R/R is pretty good piece of mind. And it's simple enough to test the stator as Griffin mentioned.Rob
1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533
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Originally posted by azr View PostHow was the ride Charlie?? how was the actual ride??? bike looks great by the way. And Ed's got some good sugestions, clean up the conections and try again before you buy anything and then buy a SH-775 (although both my bikes still have the Honda R/R's on them). But if that is a stock R/R $70 for a new R/R is pretty good piece of mind. And it's simple enough to test the stator as Griffin mentioned.
The ride you ask........smooth, steady, confident, and inspiring me to ride till the tank is dry. The motor can roar, but maybe a bit less than I expected. Third gear can get you to a good clip. I'm still learning the power curve. The tires are brand new and of course I'm new to the bike, so I plan to be a bit cautious till they wear in and I have more experience with this beast. It's not bothered by any bump in the road but still seems like it will be responsive to the twisties. I have the progressives in the front forks (thank you) and haven't had reason to complain about the stock rears yet.
I"l double check the wires and do a bit more testing this week. I seriously considered getting a new R&R and Stator for the trip just to better the odds. Now we'll just get them ordered. Thanks.
cgsigpic
83 GS1100g
2006 Triumph Sprint ST 1050
Ohhhh!........Torque sweet Temptress.........always whispering.... a murmuring Siren
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I have had a few set backs. When I put the new petcock on the first of last week I noticed a puddle of 90 w below the final drive on the tire and floor. I swapped it out with the 82 on Saturday and installed the new R&R and stator Sunday. I started it up to go for a ride and had a bit of a hard time till I topped up the tank. Turned it off to get suited up and noticed fuel running out of the air box. The air filter was saturated. I aired it out and tried it again. Same thing. I canceled the ride as it was late and I was really tired. Needless I was pretty disappointed.
This morning I checked the crankcase oil. Smells of gas pretty bad. I called Z-1 to get their opinion on a bad brand new petcock. They suggested dirty fuel from rusty tank ( a few rusty spots yes, not any worse than my other tanks) contaminating petcock and float needle valves. OK....clean tank, petcock, carbs and change oil.....sigpic
83 GS1100g
2006 Triumph Sprint ST 1050
Ohhhh!........Torque sweet Temptress.........always whispering.... a murmuring Siren
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Bad luck Charlie - don't give up.
GreetingsRichard
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GS1150 EF bought Jun 2015
GS1150 ES bought Mar 2014: ES Makeover Thread AND blog: Go to the Blog
GS1100 G (2) bought Aug 2013: Road Runner Project Thread AND blog: Go to the Blog
GS1100 G (1) Dad bought new 1985 (in rebuild) see: Dad's GS1100 G Rebuild AND blog: Go to the Blog
Previously owned: Suzuki GS750 EF (Canada), Suzuki GS750 (UK)(Avatar circa 1977), Yamaha XT500, Suzuki T500, Honda XL125, Garelli 50
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Rust from the tank no matter how bad should not influence the NEW fuel tap to leak (at least not immediately) so I think you definitely have a faulty tap (unless it's a manual tap and you left it OPEN?). I'd be sending it back (with a vengeance )Last edited by psyguy; 08-04-2014, 05:20 PM.GS850GT
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Originally posted by psyguy View PostRust from the tank no matter how bad should not influence the NEW fuel tap to leak (at least not immediately) so I think you definitely have a faulty tap (unless it's a manual tap and you left it OPEN?). I'd be sending it back (with a vengeance )
cgsigpic
83 GS1100g
2006 Triumph Sprint ST 1050
Ohhhh!........Torque sweet Temptress.........always whispering.... a murmuring Siren
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Pretty easy to test the fuel tap, then you'll know black and white if it's the culprit or not. For sure sticking float needles could cause fuel in the air filter can't see how that would cause fuel in your oil.Rob
1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533
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Originally posted by Charlie G View PostIf I could be certain one way or the other
The very fine mesh filter that's inside the tank is designed to prevent any rust from getting into the tap diaphragm.GS850GT
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