GS450s Build - Scrambler maybe? Let's get it running first.

[landshark]

I may be completely wrong, But I think most of the American GS bikes have the lights hard wired, while over here we have switches.

[FreshStart]

Yep america is hardwired

[Flaming Chainsaws]

Mine has a switch on the right controls to turn the lights off... if there's no switch I would imagine they should be on with the ignition on though.

My light switch is on the left hand controls.

I may be completely wrong, But I think most of the American GS bikes have the lights hard wired, while over here we have switches.

For my bike, there was a little tab that sticked out under the lights ON/OFF switch. I can't slide the switch because of this tab. So I removed the switch then cut off the tab. Now I can slide it, turn the lights ON/OFF.

Of course, I always turn my lights back on when I'm riding. But it's nice to turn off the lights when you're starting your bike up, get more voltage. But then again, you can do the coil relay mod.

[CDC]

So what am I missing with the speedo drive here? I have a replacement unit because the original was seized and I can't figure out how to get it to remain stationary while the wheel turns. It wants to go around with the wheel and will only turn independently with lots of drag. Any tips and tricks?

[pete]

Sounds like it needs a good cleanup and greasing to me.

You can dismantle it completely, clean out the 30 year old grease and grime, and grease it up again.

The friction of torquing up the front wheel axle should keep it in place.

[Flyboy]

There should be something to locate the unit and stop it from spinning, just look around nicely.
I don't know the 450 that well so I won't guess, but someone will be along shortly to reveal all.

[CDC]

It does not appear that there is. It will interfere with the fork tube as it goes around (and maybe the brake caliper once it is installed) but there doesn't seem to be anything other than friction holding it. I suspect I need to take it for a ride and let the lip where the wheel and speedo drive meet wear down a bit. Then maybe the friction from the axle and spacers will be enough to keep it oriented correctly with the cable hooked up.

[Flaming Chainsaws]

On my 1980 GS450L, the speedo drive stays in place when you tighten the axle nut. Maybe you're missing a spacer somewhere on the axle?

[Flyboy]

I would go along with that, some do just use the process of being clamped betweet the wheel and the fork to stop them rotating, but nt to the point where something has to wear down for it to fit.
Maybe go online to one of the parts fisch's and have a look at the exploded veiw to see if you are not missing a spacer or something there, or that they are in the right order.
You will find a whole list of vendors on Basscliff's site, most have parts fisch's
Also check that the ring with the two tabs that locate in the wheel to turn the drive turns freely without resistance, if not, strip, clean and regrease.

[CDC]

No additional spacers in the fiche and the internal ring spins freely. This definitely seems like the speedo drive body contacting the rim of the hub. I'll keep playing with it while I wait for other parts.

[pete]

Ok, went through my photobucket and found the dismantled pic of the speedo gearbox:



From memory, the way it should work is the pressure of the spacer between the left fork leg and the speedo gearbox should prevent it from spinning, and the two tabs on the inner driving disc of the speedo gearbox should locate on the front wheel to ensure it spins with it.

Not sure how much that will help if any, but it may do.

There shouldn't be anything to "wear in" or anything like that, it should just go together and work...

[CDC]

There shouldn't be anything to "wear in" or anything like that, it should just go together and work...

You would think, right? Anyway my feeling is that it will work itself out in a couple of miles one way or the other. I just need to keep an eye on it lest it damage something important.

I rode it around the block for the first time last night (!!!) and it wasn't making any horrible noises.

Finally after much waiting around I got some 132.5 main jets installed, shimmed the needles and fired her up. It actually felt about right, which has not been my previous experience with jetting.

However, I do have a very leaky petcock. I really really hate the vac operated fuel valves, and I'm wondering if there is an alternative setup I can run on this bike. A manual valve would be much preferable.

[Flaming Chainsaws]

How about a Pingel petcock? There is only an ON/OFF for this one so everytime you turn the bike off, turn the petcock off too! Or else you'll get gas in the oil.

[pete]

You would think, right? Anyway my feeling is that it will work itself out in a couple of miles one way or the other. I just need to keep an eye on it lest it damage something important.

I rode it around the block for the first time last night (!!!) and it wasn't making any horrible noises.

Finally after much waiting around I got some 132.5 main jets installed, shimmed the needles and fired her up. It actually felt about right, which has not been my previous experience with jetting.

However, I do have a very leaky petcock. I really really hate the vac operated fuel valves, and I'm wondering if there is an alternative setup I can run on this bike. A manual valve would be much preferable.

What are the plugs telling you about the mixture with the 132.5 mains? And how many washers did you shim with? And have you had to change the pilot jet?

I want to know so I can try and work out a base point for when I get my exhaust done.... whenever that is

[CDC]

Didn't pull the plugs, but it "felt" slightly on the rich side of perfect. I didn't change the pilots but I'm going to play with the fuel screws a bit to see if I can get it to idle a bit steadier.

As for the petcock, I'm frankly considering cutting out the diaphragm and removing the plunger so I still have reserve, but adding a simple inline cutoff valve afterwards.