A skunk in the works

Using Dupli-color lacquer as a base coat Dale,every thing I've read says wet sand between coats.News to me that you don't

[rustybronco]

If you 'must' sand a base coat, 2000 grit is much too fine a grit to use. Sanding with 600 grit followed by another coat of base before spraying clear would be more appropriate.

Why do you feel to need to sand your color? Is it because of dust? If that's the issue, make a wooden frame work 'booth' covered in plastic, wet the floor for dust control and shoot your paints inside it.

Was hoping to find an easy pearl/metallic white http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=192167 but it seems Dupli-color doesn't or can't make one so I settled on GM Arctic White instead.Be OK I 'm sure.Get some 2000 grit for wet sanding bettween coat and may put the first paint on Sunday.

Chuck I only have 2 sets of ears.With no mods it looks right to me.
Don't try to not stubborn me bub.

[chuck hahn]

I was referring to the first set of ears in #471..the squares arent oriented the same way.

Greg....thats the cifference in the orientation of the square hole i was talking about. My solution was to remove the male tab that locks the turn signal stem into the white adapter thing. At that point you can rotate the turn signals till they are pitched the way you want them. Use a good dab of ABS glue on the white insert, put the light on and set it and let the glue dry. Then finish doing the wire hookups .

They are 850 ears,same signal orientation just like Dale said.

[chuck hahn]

Greg....thats the cifference in the orientation of the square hole i was talking about. My solution was to remove the male tab that locks the turn signal stem into the white adapter thing. At that point you can rotate the turn signals till they are pitched the way you want them. Use a good dab of ABS glue on the white insert, put the light on and set it and let the glue dry. Then finish doing the wire hookups .

To put shrink wrap on them I'd have to cut and solder them.Trying to avoid that on the uncut ones.

Headlight ears came today.See the difference?Just enough to be a PITA.

About to be prepared for paint

And painted.Have to redo the one with the drag mark

shrink tubing as well ?, but since you have to go over the original cover it might be a bit too big to shrink so much to be tight on the wire as well....and you would have to remove the wires from the black connector as well first

Was going to ask how to fix the PO stripping of the insulation.Then I remembered seeing liquid electrical tape.......DAOH
Still waiting on the ears so not much done

WoooHoooo drive's all here!Front 17t I got from Katman and the chain and 46t rear I got locally for a killer price.

No it's not gold like the box cover but I'm good to go.Waiting on headlight ears.

Was thinking I needed to get a different fuse box but as I was I came up with a way to use the 83 750 box.Stay tuned

[cowboyup3371]

I can't look at the pictures here at work right now but I bought mine for $10 or so from www.wiringproducts.com (see my rebuild thread for more info) and it's worked out alright. I know that costs might be higher going your way but I'm sure your local auto parts store should have something.

Course, that Eastern Beaver one is REALLY nice and expensive

Greg, why not just replace it with a blade style fuse block?

A reason familiar to both of us,no $$.Or I'm committing the money to the "big" ticket items of a chain and tires.Going to see how much a blade type is.


Pity is the one I have here is mounted so differently.Hmmmm i just didn't want to mod the panel,but looking at it now I'm going "why not?".

[cowboyup3371]

Greg, why not just replace it with a blade style fuse block?