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1983 Suzuki GS1100ED --- "Big Boy"

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    Originally posted by Flaming Chainsaws View Post
    Yeah, those are only two wires; one blue and one green.

    Pete, the bike has only one battery ground. Right now, it's connected to the frame. Should I make another wire so that it will ground to the frame AND the engine?
    I've got a ground from the battery to the frame, from the battery to the engine and from the battery to the regulator/rectifier.

    And don't bolt the frame ground to those rubber w/metal sleeved battery box mounts...don't trust 'em...go to a good solid bolt on the frame...and clean it first.

    I can take a picture when I get home if you need one...
    Bob T. ~~ Play the GSR weekly photo game: Pic of Week Game
    '83 GS1100E ~ '24 Triumph Speed 400 ~ '01 TRIUMPH TT600 ~ '67 HONDA CUB

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      Originally posted by Baatfam View Post
      I've got a ground from the battery to the frame, from the battery to the engine and from the battery to the regulator/rectifier.
      That's the only way to do it right.
      You can even add one from the tail lights to the frame to be perfect.

      Daniel

      Comment


        Originally posted by Baatfam View Post
        I've got a ground from the battery to the frame, from the battery to the engine and from the battery to the regulator/rectifier.

        And don't bolt the frame ground to those rubber w/metal sleeved battery box mounts...don't trust 'em...go to a good solid bolt on the frame...and clean it first.

        I can take a picture when I get home if you need one...
        Mmmm hmmm......

        So on my negative battery terminal, I have a ground from the R/R, a ground from the main wiring harness (???), starter solenoid ground (if I remove that, the bike won't turn over), and a big ground to the frame.

        Comment


          I got the lights working again.

          But now the bike doesn't run good. It idles at 900 RPM and if I twist the throttle, it will die. If I use the choke, it works great. Once I turn off the choke, idles at 900 and dies with throttle. I tried adjusting the idle knob control thingy with no changes.

          With the bike running with no choke (900 RPM) it will die sometimes but idle is rough. Only runs on choke!

          I left the bike on choke (1,500 - 2,000 RPM) for 5 minutes. Turn the choke off and same as above. What is problem? I will post a video later today.
          Last edited by Guest; 09-01-2011, 04:52 PM.

          Comment


            Originally posted by Flaming Chainsaws View Post
            I got the lights working again.

            But now the bike doesn't run good. It idles at 900 RPM and if I twist the throttle, it will die. If I use the choke, it works great. Once I turn off the choke, idles at 900 and dies with throttle. I tried adjusting the idle knob control thingy with no changes.

            I left the bike on choke (1,500 - 2,000 RPM) for 5 minutes. Turn the choke off and same as above. What is problem?
            Try measuring the voltage at the coils when it is running like that.

            Comment


              Originally posted by Flaming Chainsaws View Post
              I got the lights working again.

              But now the bike doesn't run good. It idles at 900 RPM and if I twist the throttle, it will die. If I use the choke, it works great. Once I turn off the choke, idles at 900 and dies with throttle. I tried adjusting the idle knob control thingy with no changes.

              With the bike running with no choke (900 RPM) it will die sometimes but idle is rough. Only runs on choke!

              I left the bike on choke (1,500 - 2,000 RPM) for 5 minutes. Turn the choke off and same as above. What is problem? I will post a video later today.
              Look up. It's that damned cloud again.

              Remembering back to my 69 vw bug and all the electrical nightmares I had, one of the first things I did to my GS was to cut out every single last stock wire connector and replace all of them. I found a deal on 50 pair of insulated bullet terminals for $4.69. I still had issues after I replaced the R/R, so I ganked out the stock fuse assembly and replaced those as well. My fuse block and connectors for that were another $30, and a dedicated crimping tool for $8. I think that $43 saved me a lot of headaches and problems.

              Do you have a decent multimeter? I think that's a necessary investment based on all the issues you have. I use mine so much; continuity, diode test, voltage, Ohm load, temperatures, etc.

              Comment


                Originally posted by Adler View Post
                Try measuring the voltage at the coils when it is running like that.
                I'll try. But then again, I'm getting my Dyna coils tomorrow!

                Originally posted by cal_look_zero View Post
                Look up. It's that damned cloud again.

                Remembering back to my 69 vw bug and all the electrical nightmares I had, one of the first things I did to my GS was to cut out every single last stock wire connector and replace all of them. I found a deal on 50 pair of insulated bullet terminals for $4.69. I still had issues after I replaced the R/R, so I ganked out the stock fuse assembly and replaced those as well. My fuse block and connectors for that were another $30, and a dedicated crimping tool for $8. I think that $43 saved me a lot of headaches and problems.

                Do you have a decent multimeter? I think that's a necessary investment based on all the issues you have. I use mine so much; continuity, diode test, voltage, Ohm load, temperatures, etc.
                The damn cloud....

                I actually have a bunch of bullet connectors, both male and female 14-16 gauge, but I do not have a crimper.

                I used to have a Fluke meter but I lost that (IT'S ****IN' YELLOW!) so I have replaced it with some cheapo meter. Seems to work OK but may not be accurate.

                I think my timing is off... Like the coils are firing at the wrong time. Possible???

                Comment


                  Tanks not rusty is it?
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                    Tanks not rusty is it?
                    Tank is completely clean with no rust at all!

                    Here's some videos.

                    My lights working.
                    Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.


                    WATCH THIS! Rough idle, dies on throttle....

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by Baatfam View Post
                      I've got a ground from the battery to the frame, from the battery to the engine and from the battery to the regulator/rectifier.
                      I'll second this as "the proper way to do it". No point in doing other troubleshooting before sorting the grounds out...
                      GS850GT

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by psyguy View Post
                        I'll second this as "the proper way to do it". No point in doing other troubleshooting before sorting the grounds out...
                        If you guys say so.

                        Negative battery cable ordered. This one will go from the neg battery to engine.

                        Comment


                          Couldn't you have just made one?
                          For about $2.00

                          Daniel

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by 7981GS View Post
                            Couldn't you have just made one?
                            For about $2.00

                            Daniel
                            Yes, I could have. But I don't have a crimping tool. And I do not have the ring terminals on hand.

                            Comment


                              I have several ground cables I would of sent you.
                              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                                I have several ground cables I would of sent you.
                                I don't really like asking for parts for some reason. But, it was only $6 total so it's no big deal.

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