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1980 GS1000S Progress!!
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Great job! I bet it feels great to ride something you worked so hard on.http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/u...00080021-1.jpg
1978 GS1000C
1979 GS1000E
1980 GS1000E
2004 Roadstar
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I put a few more miles on it today..... Very nice ride!!!
A few things I need to work on and will most likely require some advice:
1) Not sure I like the feel of the clutch and someone riding with me thought he may have been smelling some clutch. For the most part it shifts, although the pull is fairly hard. It is also very difficult to find neutral....thoughts? We know the clutch itself is in fine shape, as Steve and I pulled it 30 miles ago.
2) Oil leaking down the tach cable. Couple of parts and that should be solved.
3) Suspension....got to work on that. I wish I did it before I put it back together, but I didn't think of it. Bike has less than 22K, weak springs due to age? Once I hit 40 mph, I get a bounce in front. Went away around 60 mph, but that was on a very smooth road. Tires are new and balanced. I put air 14 psi (after replacing a broken valve stem) in forks prior to the ride. Has original rear shocks....I hate to loose them, solely because of the original look, but I also want the bike to handle well. Time for springs? that will be another 1st for me. Difficult newbie project?
Overall, great running and riding bike and I am looking forward to tweaking it as needed.
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platinum2
the chain sound might be the timing chain needing adjusted , its prolly still factory set
i fixed a bike that had that sound,man it sounded bad b4 i set it then it sounded fine didnt hear it anymore hope thats whats wrong , easy fix for ya
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Originally posted by platinum2 View Postthe chain sound might be the timing chain needing adjusted , its prolly still factory set
i fixed a bike that had that sound,man it sounded bad b4 i set it then it sounded fine didnt hear it anymore hope thats whats wrong , easy fix for ya
That was solved some time ago. Turned out it was just a loose clutch basket nut.
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ozman
"A few things I need to work on and will most likely require some advice:
1) Not sure I like the feel of the clutch and someone riding with me thought he may have been smelling some clutch. For the most part it shifts, although the pull is fairly hard. It is also very difficult to find neutral....thoughts? We know the clutch itself is in fine shape, as Steve and I pulled it 30 miles ago.
"
seeing its a oil bath clutch i doubt very much ayone could smell it......difficult to find neutral is usually just adjustment
oz
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Also Platinum, the cam chain adjuster...if set up right... is constantly self adjusting. The proper way to set it is to turn the center bolt with the slot all the way in till it touches the plunger. Then back it out about 1/3 turn and secure the jam nut.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35618
- Torrance, CA
Did you install a new clutch cable? If not, get one. It's amazing how smooth the clutch will feel when changing out a worn cable with a new one. As for difficulty with finding neutral goes, first thing is to make sure the clutch is releasing all the way - use a minimum of free play at the lever. If that doesn't help, then consider checking the plates for warpage. On my second S it was difficult to find neutral, but the problem was solved by replacing the friction discs, and a couple of the warped steel plates. Now I can move between 1 - N - 2 easily, even when at a stop.
As for the suspension, I'd get Progressive springs for the front and use 15W fork oil. For your shocks, I suggest you remove the springs then check for smooth damping in the shocks (it's easier to check this if the springs are off). Soaking the shocks/springs in Evaporust will clean them up too and make them look like new. The shocks have adjustable damping, so maybe move up the damping to a higher setting and see if that helps.
Bike looks great. Keep going...Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Originally posted by Nessism View PostDid you install a new clutch cable? If not, get one. It's amazing how smooth the clutch will feel when changing out a worn cable with a new one. As for difficulty with finding neutral goes, first thing is to make sure the clutch is releasing all the way - use a minimum of free play at the lever. If that doesn't help, then consider checking the plates for warpage. On my second S it was difficult to find neutral, but the problem was solved by replacing the friction discs, and a couple of the warped steel plates. Now I can move between 1 - N - 2 easily, even when at a stop.
As for the suspension, I'd get Progressive springs for the front and use 15W fork oil. For your shocks, I suggest you remove the springs then check for smooth damping in the shocks (it's easier to check this if the springs are off). Soaking the shocks/springs in Evaporust will clean them up too and make them look like new. The shocks have adjustable damping, so maybe move up the damping to a higher setting and see if that helps.
Bike looks great. Keep going...
I realize I need to do the progressive spring upgrade.....the thought of that one has me a little intimidated, but I will tackle it soon.
As far as the rear shocks, am I correct in saying that they cannot be improved/rebuilt? If not, what is a good replacement that best keeps the stock appearance?
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You'll find that replacing the fork springs isn't that difficult if you use Basscliff's procedures and either use the special tool people recommend OR remove the allen bolt from the bottom of the forks before disassembling them. Be sure to also put it all back together and then tighten everything down. I had an issue re-assembling mine and documented what the fix was in my rebuild thread.
Personally, I think either Progressives or Hagons will give you the look you are after and a better ride. Although I haven't tried my Hagons out yet, I rode a bike with them on last year and they felt okay to me; course I am ALOT more inexperienced than you so you may have a different take on that.Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace
1981 GS550T - My First
1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike
Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"
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Originally posted by cowboyup3371 View PostYou'll find that replacing the fork springs isn't that difficult if you use Basscliff's procedures and either use the special tool people recommend OR remove the allen bolt from the bottom of the forks before disassembling them. Be sure to also put it all back together and then tighten everything down. I had an issue re-assembling mine and documented what the fix was in my rebuild thread.
Personally, I think either Progressives or Hagons will give you the look you are after and a better ride. Although I haven't tried my Hagons out yet, I rode a bike with them on last year and they felt okay to me; course I am ALOT more inexperienced than you so you may have a different take on that.
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7981GS
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FLHGSRay
That bike is a beauty. I've wanted an "S" since seeing them in the bike mags when they were new. Have thought of cloning my '79 "E". I understand there are repro fairings, or at least something close, but what about the inner fairing or dash? Has anyone had good luck building a clone?
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