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De-stinking Penelope
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Ed, I don't want to know how many hours I have in them. All I can say is a lot. Every time I turned around I found another spot or two that needed a little more finessing. I gave up and said when they're done to my satisfaction, I'll start taping them. It's sure nice when you can see all the numbers near the bolt locations and they're as crisp as the the day they were cast.
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Wow Dale, those cases look spotless! Nice work! Don't want to know how many hours you have into getting them that way. You are motivating me to get busy on my engine cases, only I don't have your energy level...
Enjoying the thread.Keep going...
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To a different drummer...
Spent about a hour tonight removing the last of the case corrosion. Don't think I can get them any cleaner short of soda blasting them
Made some cardboard masking panels tonight. Tomorrow after work I'll give the cases a good degreasing, a final etch with phosphoric acid and start masking the cases in preparation for paint.
Picked up a licence plate over the weekend. Not in too bad a shape for the $5 l paid for it.
The wife thought I bought it to hang on the licence plate ladder.
Last edited by rustybronco; 08-21-2014, 08:16 AM.
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hm... there seems to be a clear ceramic coating available as well
Last edited by psyguy; 08-20-2014, 02:11 AM.
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Originally posted by rustybronco View Post
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One such possibility...
http://www.cerakotehightemp.com/reso...anual13web.pdf (MC series coating application)
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The Eastwood engine paint I bought is silicone alkyd based. Hope I don't run into any issues when I go to paint the body work.Last edited by rustybronco; 08-19-2014, 10:38 AM.
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The factory did it the way they did so bikes would look good IN THE SHOP and that coating deteriorated fast once on the road...
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Originally posted by rustybronco View PostIf the use of clear-coat on the engine tends to yellow over time when subjected to repeated hot-cold cycles, what do any of you recommend using as a clear-coat for the clutch and stator covers? Hi-temp powder coating?
I had planned on using Glisten PC on the aformentioned engine covers and I will still can use it on my wheels and fork tubes if heat is going to be an issue with the covers.
NO on Glisten PC.
I tried it and while I think the product is excellent the alu covers still found a way of corroding UNDERNEATH the clear-coat, so in a year it looked like some dumb-ass clear-coated the parts with no prep. Just answering all the questions, like: "Oh, did you do any prep before spraying that clear?" made me sick...
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Sorry Stan, but it's gotta be clear-coat or something similar to it. The factory did it that way and if at all possible mine will be the same.
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Guest repliedAutosol and elbow grease once a week.
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If the use of clear-coat on the engine tends to yellow over time when subjected to repeated hot-cold cycles, what do any of you recommend using as a clear-coat for the clutch and stator covers? Hi-temp powder coating?
I had planned on using Glisten PC on the aformentioned engine covers and I will still can use it on my wheels and fork tubes if heat is going to be an issue with the covers.
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I am with the others on just painting the entire thing. I cleared over the engine on the 77 750, which was my first go at such a project, and its brownish yellow in some spots and is gonna need redone at some time. BUT the VHT Universal aluminum WITHOUT clear over it still looks just as awesome as he day it was applied.
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No need to prosecute... I'm certainly FOR painting the engine cases, jut not using CLEAR finish but "solid" paint
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