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De-stinking Penelope

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  • rustybronco
    replied
    Spent five or six hours today out in the garage block sanding the seat trim, mixing up the sandable primer, shooting it and blocking out a good portion of the tank. This time I added in 1 part of reducer making the primer easier to spray. Put on another two coats, guide coated it and whipped out the sand paper.




    Yesterday I found a slight black line in the tailpiece which at first I thought was a hair off one of the dogs. Unfortunately it wasn't. It ended up being a crack in in the ABS.
    Tomorrow I'll mix up a bit of ABS slurry and take a die grinder to the crack opening it up enough so it can be filled. Hopefully I can get it repaired in time for it to be primed and block sanded before the coming weekend.

    Dog hair...




    Not!

    Last edited by rustybronco; 09-21-2014, 08:39 PM.

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  • chuck hahn
    replied
    Get Lucky and Morgan there to lend a hand. Darn free loaders!!!!

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  • rustybronco
    replied
    At least it's progressing in the right direction...

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  • rustybronco
    replied
    Today was in the high 70's. Had to work today (thanks Stan for keeping me company!). After work I had to stop at a customers house to adjust the valves on his generator, so l got a rather late start at priming Penelope's body work

    Ran into one small issue and one rather large. No matter how much I tried I couldn't get the primer to spray correctly. I didn't have an issue the last time I used it? Wait, the last time I sprayed it I used the gun I gave Chuck. It had a 1.6 tip. I doesn't like being forced through a 1.4 tip. Cranked up the pressure to 45 psi just to get it to shoot so so. Well at least it is a sandable primer.

    Spent two hours scuffing the epoxy, degreasing everything, cleaning the floor of the booth and getting all the little things out of the way so l could apply the primer. It's funny how little time is spent actually spent painting when you think about it. Put on a couple coats and spent the next hour and a half cleaning up the guns and block sanding the tank. Tomorrow I'll apply two more coats and take a picture of the rather large issue.


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  • SVSooke
    Guest replied
    Sending PM to stop cluttering up this thread.

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  • rustybronco
    replied
    Greg, what initially looked like a good idea may not be so good in practice. The thermal conductivity of PVC is considerably less than iron pipe per given thickness. If I were you, I would consider using iron piping instead. It's $8.58 for a 10 ft section around here. To lower the total cost check the difference between PVC elbows and iron fittings.

    There is also copper tubing coiled inside a bucket filled with ice water...

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  • SVSooke
    Guest replied
    Up here in TGWN prices might be a titch higher but not enough to not do it.Unless I move my compressor 4 lines would be better for me.My space is a little more cramped so I'm kind of thinking a stack of 8 5' sections closer together and putting then behind the compressor and moving my toolbox in front of them to shied it from klutzy me

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  • rustybronco
    replied
    Greg, if you do, you may want to use five lines instead of the three I used.

    Make sure you use NSF-PW PVC (or equivalent) and fittings as they are pressure rated. The 1/2" line I used was rated up to 600 p.s.i.

    The 1/2'- 10' plastic line cost $1.38 a stick.
    A ten piece bag of 1/2" elbows cost $2.70.
    The two 1/2" to 1/2" NPT bushings were $.97 ea.

    The brass bushings connecting plastic to the air line fittings were $4.99 each
    Last edited by rustybronco; 09-16-2014, 09:14 AM.

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  • SVSooke
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by rustybronco View Post
    Greg, Chuck, you'll just have to take my word for it.

    Air line condenser is done. Twenty-five feet of air hose and another twenty-five of half inch pcv making up the condenser, plus an additional seven feet more of green air hose should be enough to condense out a good portion of moisture from the air. Well in theory it should.



    With all the water in the air here I REALLY need a setup like this for mine.Think I'm stealing this

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  • psyguy
    replied
    Originally posted by rustybronco View Post
    Air line condenser is done. Twenty-five feet of air hose and another twenty-five of half inch pcv making up the condenser, plus an additional seven feet more of green air hose should be enough to condense out a good portion of moisture from the air. Well in theory it should.
    So, you've decided to go pro and open a spray painting business?

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  • rustybronco
    replied
    Chuck, I suspect some moisture may settle out in the coiled up hose, but as little as the compressor runs I really don't believe it will cause me any trouble. Just in case, I do plan on running the hose towards the garage door and straight back when I put on the sandable primer tomorrow.

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  • chuck hahn
    replied
    Cut each long leg of the condensor at one corner and add a Tee with about a 6 inch drip leg. Add a ball valve at the ends of the drip legs to drain. That way youll have three potential traps for anything roaming around the pipe

    Will water trap in the bottom of the coils of the rolled up hose? Maybe better to have just a short uncoiled run to the condensor???

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  • rustybronco
    replied
    Greg, Chuck, you'll just have to take my word for it.

    Air line condenser is done. Twenty-five feet of air hose and another twenty-five of half inch pcv making up the condenser, plus an additional seven feet more of green air hose should be enough to condense out a good portion of moisture from the air. Well in theory it should.



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  • chuck hahn
    replied
    Modest doesnt play well for you Dale. we see whats what here.

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  • SVSooke
    Guest replied
    Sure Dale,I believe you

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