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De-stinking Penelope
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I remember seeing the parts of this project at your place in 2018' when I was there with my GS450TXZ and trailer;Dale,this is a good year.
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I hear the winds telling me this girls about to get some attention again..................
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Just noticed this thread began in 2011! Followed this closely up until 2 years ago...just remembered out of the blue to come back and check today...OP how's it going?
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Hello ? .... Hello ? ......Is anybody out there ? .....I'm not getting any younger ?
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Originally posted by Nessism View PostGlass bead or aluminum oxide grit is nasty stuff if any of it gets into the blind oil passages of the head. That's why I think soda is better for that application.
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My intent is to place a wooden board on the head surface and a cheap valve cover over the upper portion.
Right now the thought rolling around my head is using Walnut shells.
From what I have seen and read about vapor blasting it is not the way you want to go if you are going to paint, way to smooth a surface for paint adhesion.I still may do that with the cylinders. Trouble is finding someone to do the work who you trust. (That and a gracious application of wood to protect the surfaces you don't need hit with the slurry.
Next step is getting case bolts in better shape than what I have. (Yes Ed, I still have the plating materials you sent me.)Last edited by rustybronco; 05-04-2017, 03:50 PM.
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Glass bead or aluminum oxide grit is nasty stuff if any of it gets into the blind oil passages of the head. That's why I think soda is better for that application.
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Glass beading to remove all that oxidation and carbon. It will be effective without removing any base material or causing damage. Then if you are going to paint follow up with a quick light blasting with aluminum oxide, this will provide a good surface for the paint to adhere.
From what I have seen and read about vapor blasting it is not the way you want to go if you are going to paint, way to smooth a surface for paint adhesion.
Glass bead is not a good surface to get paint to stick. Using a steel wire wheel or steel wool will cause dissimilar metal corrosion, not effective. Maybe a brass wheel and brass wool or copper or aluminum wool if you want to go that route.
All your work looks top notch by the way, great job and keep it up!
Cheers
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Side note..if the carb float bowls and bodies have that white scale to them, the wheel cleaner and a tooth brush take quick care of that too.
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Chuck, I used a boat load if red scotch brites on the cases. I'll set to removing the broken stud and cleaning up the ports
and combustion chambers then decide what to do with the exterior.
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Dale..for what its worth i got a suggestion from the KZ forum some time ago about using Eagle One Mag Wheel cleaner ( be sure it says ETCHING on the front label ) for dissolving the oxidation. I was gonna be painting the jugs anyway so thought why not. Got a bottle at Orielleys and sprayed it on. It has 3 different acids in it and it started making white foam almost instantly.
Got the Hemostats and some 00 steel wool to go in and out of the fins and it was corrosion free in maybe 45 minutes or so. I would imagine it would do well for your stuff as well.
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Degrease and soda blast would work. Vapor blasting would be better but it will cost you. You are going to be painting anyway so a perfect raw finish isn't important.
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