GSX 400E -83 chopper

[hampshirehog]

Or you could drop Andy an email - he'll get you sorted:

http://www.nrp-carbs.co.uk/suzuki_carburettor_diaphragms.htm

[MotoX]

Just to help myself remember a few things about the carburators I type some stuff found out by searching this site http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com

Main Jet - Mikuni Main Jet N100.604 9mm high, 8mm wide over screw head.
Pilot Jet - Mikuni Pilot Jet N151.067 14mm high, 4mm wide over screw head.
Pilot Air Jet - Mikuni Air Jet B42/55 6,5mm high, 6mm wide over screw head.

I couldn't quite figure out the Jet Needle and Needle Jet though.

[mike-s]

I had a slight hole in the membrane on my carb. A smear of rubber cement used for fixing inner tubes & punctures on the fingertip lightly across the hole on both sides, left to cure with the rubber as straight as possible, then a second slightly thicker coat, left to dry again and it's as good as new.

Though it doesn't take away from the fact that the slight fold rubbing on the inner bits of the carb was the initial cause of the rubber wearing way.

[MotoX]

I had a slight hole in the membrane on my carb. A smear of rubber cement used for fixing inner tubes & punctures on the fingertip lightly across the hole on both sides, left to cure with the rubber as straight as possible, then a second slightly thicker coat, left to dry again and it's as good as new.

Though it doesn't take away from the fact that the slight fold rubbing on the inner bits of the carb was the initial cause of the rubber wearing way.

I'll definetly try this to see if it will be ok that way! Thank you

[mike-s]

The big reason i did it this way was the glue was designed to work with this kind of material, so certainly can do no harm having a try with this method. At least that is the logic i used.

[MotoX]

The big reason i did it this way was the glue was designed to work with this kind of material, so certainly can do no harm having a try with this method. At least that is the logic i used.

No absolutely, if I'll change it, I might aswell give this a try first.

[MotoX]

So to update this stand still... I have been taking the last days of work and tried to fix some tools for my garage. Got my parents welder home to my garage and then went and bought spare parts for it. After buying those I also had to buy a few thingys to get electricity from my central in the house out to the garage and feed the welder. Bought some additional stuff to be able to make that jigg I need to keep the geometry of the front frame and the rear axle. Investigated a bit about the tubing I will use and found out that needs to be ordered from abroad.

So all in all, about 1000$ worth of spare parts and another 400$ of tubing ordered. The tubing for the jigg I can buy allready and starting making that sometime next week, the tubing for the frame will have to wait longer sadly so that might get here in 2-3 weeks at the fastest.

So in the mean time I'll sit my ass at the pokertables and try to recover from this economical loss :P

[psyguy]

Investigated a bit about the tubing I will use and found out that needs to be ordered from abroad.

Interesting... care to explain why, please?

[MotoX]

Interesting... care to explain why, please?

Certainly! The vehicle inspection here in Sweden demand that you use a certain tubing when re-building a frame on a vehicle. This tubing I think is called seemless steel tubing #235a(or n) or #335a(or n). This is tubing not stored in stock here in Sweden and thus have to be ordered from abroad, in this case Germany. The shiping costs are 140$. Added to that I need 25x3mm tubing for the small reinforcements on the bike and also the tubing going from the top of the bike down to the underlying long tube that stretches from beneath the engine back to the rear axle. I also need a 28x3mm tube going beneath the engine back to the rear axle. They only sell in lengths of 6m. All added together it will be about 400$ for the tubing if I don't count the ones I'll use for the temporary jigg.

Hurray for building your own bike in Sweden!

[psyguy]

Thanks MotoX.

Yeah... living in a highly regulated country can cost a bit... eh?

I always envy how in some places you can just chop your frame anyway you like... and take off the brakes... and mudguards... and still be legal.

Can't do that here... but at least there are no such specific requirements on the tubing you use - it just needs to be of "suitable size and strength" to be legal.

[Flaming Chainsaws]

If I were you, I'd give Mindless a visit if possible. He is a forum member and is currently rebuilding a super awesome bike and is also in Sweden.

I would love to see that bike in person but I won't be going to Europe anytime soon....

Anyways, where's the pictures?

[MotoX]

Yeah Psy, though I have to say it's a double edged sword. With the rules in place we can have guys rebuilding in their own garages without having to pay big sums of money to proffessionals that are authorized to do the work. We also don't have alot of accidents due to bad building. But safety comes at a price, either the missing safety or the higher build cost :P

Of course, on a small bike like mine, it probably would be sufficient with some lower grade tubing I guess, I'm no expert though so I happily do as I'm told from the guys who know and cough up the extra "green".

Thanks Flaming, I'll give his build a look and maybe even visit if I have the opportunity and get the OK from himself

Yes the pictures, right now alot is taking place only in my head, I promise there will be alot of garage porn when I actually start though The methods I use to reserv the geometry of the bike should probably be something you are not to familiar with, so that should be interesting to show.

The plan is to make a triangular frame with the pointy tip behind the rear wheel and the flat end ahead of the fork crown. I'll then put tubes directly taced to the front of the frame in 4 places, 2 under engine and 2 above engine which will keep the front end of the frame in it's current place. I'll then take away the rear wheel of the bike, keep the swing and screw 2 pipes on where the axle should be, this to keep the angle of the rear wheel tensioners and weld these 2 pipes to the triangle aswell.

I guess people normaly make a more re-usable jigg than this, but since I will only build this for this bike I figure I can spend the 45$ on something that I can later just throw away or re-use for smaller stuff on the bike...

[Hoosier Daddy]

Gratulationer på att få din motorcykel och hoppas att det vänder sig ut då planerad!

Subscribed! I want to follow along on this one.
As far as your steel tubing woes, that must be tough! I am one of those spoiled Americans who take for granted certain things that you members from other parts of the world have to deal with. My hat's off to you for going to such great expence and extents to get your dream.

[MotoX]

Gratulationer på att få din motorcykel och hoppas att det vänder sig ut då planerad!

Whoa wait a minute, a Swede in the states ey? Thank you for your support m8 and yeah, the expenses pile up, but at the same time it is alot of fun, so what the hell :P

[MotoX]

So, a stop at the metal shop to order the tubing, the guy said it might take up to 2 weeks, but that should suit me just fine as I 1) have alot other stuff to do and 2) can finish of the jigg in the mean time with metal that he has in the shop.

So for the Jigg, I have actually changed my plan slightly and will probably go for a tighter jigg built on square tubes with round tubes up to different points of the bike. I post this here to ask you if you think this should be strong enough or if there are any risk to lose the geometry in the bike this way?



Right now there is only one diagonal pipe going from a pillar, I will have an equal pipe on every pillar to make them stronger but didn't want to clutter up the image any further.

Should this be ok? Do you think I need gussets inside the 4 outer corners? I don't realy see the need for it with my 2 bridges supporting the engine mounts in the middle.

Anyway, my plan is to weld this jigg after the bikes geometry today. Then I'll secure the front axle and the front engine mount of the bike into the jigg. After that I'll cut the bike in the middle, since the fork crown is still intact I think the front axle mount and the front motor mount should be enough to keep the correct angle of the fork crown, does anybody think otherwise?

Anyway, if you think this should work, then I should be able to weld the new frame onto the rear axle of the jigg and get a whole bike again with correct geometry.