1982 GS850, A True Newbie's First Time Project

[cowboyup3371]

When you go to do your calipers, make sure you rebuild both master cylinders. You might even want to swap to stainless steel brake lines.

[arunara]

Well I actually don't know how to rebuild master cylinders, is that same thing as changing brake oil or tearing down the whole brake system apart? Also as for the brake lines go, I really want to postpone that until I have the engines and electricals right as I want to ultimately make it a cafe racer. So I'm not sure at this point what length I need for the brake cables and clutch cables.

--UPDATE--
I found this link and I was wondering if I need to buy the o-ring and the spring like the instruction says or keeping the original part is fine too?

[cowboyup3371]

That will work but there's also one on Basscliff's site found here...http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...-ends.html#A02

You'll want to order new piston cup sets for both though just to be on the safe side. Don't forget to clean out the return port though or your brakes will lock up.

Understand what you mean by wanting to wait but if you are going to ride get your brakes done first and right...it's your life riding on them.

[arunara]

That will work but there's also one on Basscliff's site found here...http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...-ends.html#A02

You'll want to order new piston cup sets for both though just to be on the safe side. Don't forget to clean out the return port though or your brakes will lock up.

Understand what you mean by wanting to wait but if you are going to ride get your brakes done first and right...it's your life riding on them.

Thank you for the fast reply!!! I understand the concern but I got my 02 Yammy Roadstar Warrior and that's the only reason I bought a non-running bike, so I have something to ride while I'm doing this =) Can't survive a single week without an hour of worry free ride

[Nessism]

Well I actually don't know how to rebuild master cylinders, is that same thing as changing brake oil or tearing down the whole brake system apart? Also as for the brake lines go, I really want to postpone that until I have the engines and electricals right as I want to ultimately make it a cafe racer. So I'm not sure at this point what length I need for the brake cables and clutch cables.

--UPDATE--
I found this link and I was wondering if I need to buy the o-ring and the spring like the instruction says or keeping the original part is fine too?

It's hard to say if the original parts are okay until you tear down the master cylinder(s) and calipers. If the brake fluid is brown and dark that means the bike was neglected and the fluid has collected water, which corrodes the system from the inside out. The brake lines should be changed at the same time the system is being cleaned out otherwise the old lines will contaminate the system.

[ScrumDown]

If I can throw this out there. This is what I check when I work on an engine that doesn't start right off the bat. (The three major things need for an engine to run.)

• GAS
• SPARK
• AIR

1 - Do you have fuel flowing to the carbs? (i.e. Petcock work?)
2 - I know you can't check for spark yet. So I think it best to replace the battery and then see if you have spark. (Are the spark plugs clean-ish, very dirty or ???) Probably best to replace, IMHO.
3 - Is the air filter clean? is there one in place? (Not having one can mess with the air flow causing issues.)

[Digitus]

Okay so are you saying that I should try changing the battery? According to the last owner, the battery was completely drained from sitting and he had 'fully' charged the battery...

Letting it completely drain will ruin a battery. Dont bother with this one, buy a new one, they are not very expensive. Or take a car battery and hook it up to this one for a boost. Then you can see if the engine cranks. Once you know its not seized, you can if it will start and work from there.

I am very curious if it will start. :-)

[arunara]

If I can throw this out there. This is what I check when I work on an engine that doesn't start right off the bat. (The three major things need for an engine to run.)

• GAS
• SPARK
• AIR

1 - Do you have fuel flowing to the carbs? (i.e. Petcock work?)
2 - I know you can't check for spark yet. So I think it best to replace the battery and then see if you have spark. (Are the spark plugs clean-ish, very dirty or ???) Probably best to replace, IMHO.
3 - Is the air filter clean? is there one in place? (Not having one can mess with the air flow causing issues.)

!!!! Forgot that I have not emptied the gas tank yet!!! It's still got old gas inside the tank and didn't remember to flush out yet... Thank you for the reminder.

1. No idea if the gas is leaking to carb, to be honest, don't know how to check =) But I can say that everything's in stock, just has been sitting for a long time.

2. Changing the battery this weekend or early next week

3. I think it's just four carbs feeding from one stock air box just like any other stock bike...

Letting it completely drain will ruin a battery. Dont bother with this one, buy a new one, they are not very expensive. Or take a car battery and hook it up to this one for a boost. Then you can see if the engine cranks. Once you know its not seized, you can if it will start and work from there.

I am very curious if it will start. :-)

Yes sir! I'm getting a new battery and as soon as I replace it I will give you guys an update. Also since someone mentioned that he's worried about wheels not rolling right, I will post another video me pushing the bike to try to show how hard it is to roll the bike in N once I change the battery

Just wanted to say it's been three days and I've already learned so much from you guys and I really appreciate it

[ScrumDown]

If you have not done so already, please order yourself a Clymer or Haynes Repair Manual. There is lots of good info in them that you can use when not on here.

I have a Haynes for my 79 GS550L and I am debating about getting a Clymer to have as well.

[Nessism]

Haynes and Clymers manuals suck. Get the original Suzuki manual off basscliff's web site (free download).

And it's a waste of time and effort trying to start an old bike that hasn't received any maintenance. Clean out the tank, rebuild the carbs, adjust the valves, etc. Even if it starts and runs it's just luck, and the bike can easily crap out on you at any time until the maintenance is taken care of.

[FLHGSRay]

The reason I always try to get mine started is that I want to know if I have a good basis for whatever plan I have in mind. I want to know if the engine is sound. It doesn't have to run well, just start so I can hear if it has any knocks or whatever. I don't want to rebuild carbs on a blown engine, or totally tear down an engine that is good. I always get them started first. If the engine is blown, I may just change my plans. If it sounds good, then I do the carbs, valve adjust, etc. I'd buy a battery, and get it turning over, check for spark at the plugs, fill the bowls with fresh gas, and start it.

[arunara]

Well I couldn't work on THIS bike because I had a huge problem with my running Yammy Roadstar, the gas cap is stuck and can't fill the gas. But tonight when I went out to take the gas tank off my Yammy I realized that on my GS it was definitely the brake that was causing the bike not to roll. So once I get my gas tank fixed tomorrow I will take the calipers off and go get me that battery I need.

Before I do that though is there anything I should be aware of when I'm doing this or should I just unbolt everything on the caliper and try to take it off the disc? Also what do I do since the caliper is already pressured and holding on to the disc?

Lastly is the battery spec of 82 GS850 12V 50.4 kC (14 Ah)/10HR correct? This is the info that was in the manual from Bikecliff's website.

[Etcheberri]

you might need to release some pressure in your break lines,
and you ll need a Clamp, a piece of wood, to push it back into place for reinstallation.

there s anyway something wrong with that caliper if it keeps braking for no reason,
bleed your lines?

but wait advice from more experienced guys than me before doing so.

[arunara]

Well I'm not too worried about reinstallation at the moment as I will change the break cable and flush and clean the whole brake system before I reinstall.

But how do I release those pressure?

[Etcheberri]

when you pull the break (don t remember if it s your front or rear), can you move the handle/pedal? or not at all.
if it does move freely maybe the piston is just seized there?
if it doesn't check if you could remove the pads anyway, get some room to pull all that off.

i ve never dealt with a stuck OUT caliper piston though.
really strange.