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1982 GS850, A True Newbie's First Time Project

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    #31
    The pedal and the handle moves but the calipers are stuck. But if I bleed it with air and just release the bleeder would that help?

    ======Edit======

    Called local auto part store and non of them have the battery in stock and they all have to order from outside vendors and I found this online. Seems like the spec matches the description from the manual. What do you guys think?

    Last edited by Guest; 10-11-2011, 07:08 PM.

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      #32
      i think that s no pressure problem then.

      either your piston is stuck out, or your pads are stuck on the disc.
      try to spray a lot of penetrating oil over there, i d use a rubber hammer to hit the disc a bit too, and the calliper, to try to unblock all that, bleed your lines and just unbolt everything.

      DO NOT DRIVE the bike if the penetrating oil unlock the parts!
      Last edited by Guest; 10-11-2011, 07:16 PM.

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        #33
        actually could you flip open the break pads servicing cover (on top of the caliper, should be a plastic part, look in the manual) and look what s going on over there? if it s all rusty, etc.

        EDIT : if you do not have any rubber hammer, take a piece of flat wood, and hit it with a regular hammer, the idea is to never hit metal against metal. and hit gently.
        Last edited by Guest; 10-11-2011, 07:15 PM.

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          #34
          Originally posted by Etcheberri View Post
          actually could you flip open the break pads servicing cover (on top of the caliper, should be a plastic part, look in the manual) and look what s going on over there? if it s all rusty, etc.

          EDIT : if you do not have any rubber hammer, take a piece of flat wood, and hit it with a regular hammer, the idea is to never hit metal against metal. and hit gently.
          Thank you so much for the tips!!! I will try that once sun goes down. It's just too damn hot for me to go out and work on it =)

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            #35
            you re welcome, hope it helps, i had stuck pads on a car once, never tried it on a motorcycle, but should work, remember to be gentle.

            if you feel it somewhat moves a bit freely afterwards, unbolt all off it.

            and well, come live in canada, it s already almost cold outside and sun is long gone :P , joking of course, would love to live in SoCal :P

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              #36
              Arunara, it's pretty simple, what you do is, look at the diagram below, firstly loosen the bleeding nipple, marked number 13 in the diagram below to releive the pressure in the brake line, do not remove completely, just loosen a few turns, then you will see two bolts on the side of the caliper that attach it to the caliper carrier, they are marked number 12 in the diagram and screw into two sliding pins, marked number 10, loosen those two bolts and remove them.
              After removing those two bolts, the caliper is now loose from the carrier, it should just pull straight off backwards with a little wiggling and jiggling.
              if your brake pads are binding to the disk and it is hard to remove, look at the caliper from the back of the bike, you will see a slot there where you can see the back of the brake pads inside the caliper and the edge of the disc between them.
              Take a sturdy flat screwdriver and push the tip in between one of the pads and the disk, preferably the outter pad on the side of the front fork, now wiggle it gently from side to side, it will push the pad and the piston back into the caliper and away from the disk.
              You can now just pull the calliper off.
              Same drill for the rear.............hope this helps a bit.

              PS: Be careful, hen you push the piston back, old gunky horrible brake fluid is going to come squirting out of the bleeding nipple, be sure not to let it squirt into your eyes or onto your Ferrarri's paint work or such, I just drape a small rag over the nipple to catch any fluid coming out.

              Last edited by Guest; 10-11-2011, 10:11 PM.

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                #37
                yeah, exactly like flyboy said, he explains WAY better than me

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                  #38
                  If you pack up the brake system parts and bring them to Torrance I'll show you how to rebuild the calipers and master cylinder. Know though that if there is corrosion on the internal parts you will have to order replacements and the job won't be completed in one day.
                  Ed

                  To measure is to know.

                  Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                  Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                  Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                  KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                    #39
                    You might consider heading down Knott to the Harbor Freight and picking up an electrical multi meter for under 10 dollars. Its in the strip mall accross from Golden West College in HB. I hope your engine isn't stuck. It probably isn't, but you have not made it turn over yet.

                    The plugs are in the top of the engine, there are fat wires leading to them. You might consider taking them out and putting a couple of ounces of motor oil in the holes and putting the plugs back in.
                    sigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things

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