1983_GS750E - Rebuild

[SVSooke]

Think that tool I linked you can just reach that top one,I think.The rest will be good to go.

[GateKeeper]

Any specifics on the tool, length, diameter, and what size ball should I weld onto the end of the rod.

Is it then just a matter of sliding it in and out of the tubes ? over the indent to punch it back out ? I am sure a hammer will be used for sure....

Thanks

EDIT - seems the ball is about the same diameter as the pipe itself ? from what I can see in this picture, and do I just wire wheel the pipes, or sand blast them, and then paint ?

[SVSooke]

It's a 1" ball bearing on a mild steel rod.I relived the welds inside the pipe at the collector,Then used an ordinary hammer to push it down the pipe.Greasing it helps get it back out.Apparently it's not easy to weld hardened and mild steel.A 20x3/8" steel rod.

[GateKeeper]

Thanks....

I have a really good welder friend, will tell him what I need, and let him worry on how to weld it...LOL

[Smokinapankake]

As far as your stuck/broken header bolt-
A chemist friend at work has informed me that ammonia will attack the aluminum oxide, thereby breaking the bond between the steel bolt and the aluminum head. I've used this trick to remove an aluminum seatpost stuck in a steel bicycle frame so I don't see any reason why this won't work on your head. Might be a bit difficult to get the ammonia in there but I imagine a spray bottle and a few taps on the end of the stuck bolt might help. Let it soak for a while.

See this article for more info:

http://sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html

Scroll down to paragraph 8 under the Cure section.
There is some other interesting info there if you're into bicycles.....

[GateKeeper]

Thanks for the link and the tip....

I got nothing to lose, so I might as well try it, just not sure if the ammonia will penetrate around the threads enough to loosen it up, so as I can screw it out, there really is not much sticking out either, worse case scenario is I will have to drill the part out, and chase the thread to make em good again.

here is step 8

Aluminum seatposts frequently become stuck by corrosion also, and penetrating oil is almost useless against aluminum oxide. Fortunately, aluminum oxide can be dissolved like magic by using ammonia. [Jobst Brandt doesn't think this works, because the ammonia won't penetrate -- see his comments on stuck handlebar stems. Drano drain cleaner in water also dissolves aluminum oxide. Leaving the frame upside down with the seatpost soaking in one of these liquids may possibly free the seatpost. With the frame upside down, you might also run liquid down from inside as described in additional suggestions.-- John Allen]

[Dodik]

for the headers you can also try a sliding hammer and a stud welder. same process as used in dent removal.

[GateKeeper]

yes you are correct, however the expense is much more, don't have the sliding hammer, and no stud welder, so the big ball on the end of a rod, will be the cheap way, and hopefully it will work, if not I can start looking at more drastic solutions

not being cheap, just frugal.....LOL

[Smokinapankake]

Drilling and chasing is extremely difficult. The difficulty lies not in the work itself, rather, in getting that damm drill started in the exact center of your broken bolt. IF you can get it started in the center of the bolt, and IF you can drill normal (perpendicular) to the surface, and IF you don't drill too far and punch a hole in your head, you may stand a chance.

IF you can accomplish all these things while sitting on the floor with a hand drill then by Gawd you're a human machine/machinist.

Of course, once the bolt is removed you can chase threads or drill and tap for a helicoil or some other similar thread repair device (Keensert, timesert, etc...) but be sure to run the tap down in straight as well.

Sounds dire, and in some cases it is, but it can be done. I did it on my 84 Kat on 5 of the 8 bolts. Not that mine were centered, but I got extremely lucky in that they were close enough to center that I didn't drill into the head and I could still fit my stock exhaust flanges. I really should have pulled the head for that many broken/stuck bolts and I may just pull it in the future to fix it properly.

At any rate, get as much info as you can and decide from there. There are many other ways to skin this cat, and I think the main ingredient required will be PATIENCE.

Good luck!

[GateKeeper]

@Smokinapankake - your right I am gonna take my time on this for sure, don't want to make it worse.

I am going to give it some thought, got other things to work on, like the carbs, the O ring kit has been shipped, and the carbs are sitting in a bucket of Pine Sol, just checked on them and they are looking good.....

We have done some awesome work sitting on the garage floor.....LOL

[GateKeeper]

Here are some pictures of the carbs taking a Pine Sol bath, the before and after shots, as well as the diaphragm's, and so on....

The Pine Sol



the diaphragm's



soaking in the bucket



The BEFORE



and the AFTER






This is only after about 6 hours of soaking, and yes I will take them apart even more, and let them soak individually as well for at least a day....

But it sure does look like the Pine Sol kicks A$$

[GateKeeper]

What is this color called........

1983 Suzuki GS1100E
Owner: Phillip Scholl
phillip.scholl@alldata.com

I would like to do mine like this as well, or would it not be right ?

Any thoughts or opinions.....

[SVSooke]

Red? You have a email.

[GateKeeper]

@SVSooke - Red, maybe, but what exact code, anyone really know ? Looks almost like a bubble gum sort of red ? Hell I don't know


I have sent you a reply.....Thanks

[SVSooke]

Forgot the huge