Another Aussie GS rebuild - GS1100G

[gearhead13]

Thanks for all the guidance. This place is truly amazing. I have discovered from the guy at Dynatek that my bike is one of two (apparently) that never had a timing plate thing (Suzuki part # 33371-45001). So I have ordered one from my very helpful local dealer and it will cost me all of Aust$10. But it has to come from Japan so will be a couple of weeks. Otherwise I have no way of knowing where to set the crank trigger.

The other thing which confuses me is the cam chain. I know I have to change mine as it rattled like crazy when I rode the bike home. It almost drowned out the engine! Everyone says that you have to pull out the crankshaft to replace the cam chain as it is all in one loop. But my Suzuki replacement cam chain is not a continuous loop, it has a joiner link. So I can break the existing chain and use it to feed the new chain in place and join it up, as long as I either have the right tools or know someone who does! So why does everyone - including the Suzuki manual - insist otherwise?

I am much happier working on electrical stuff. I feel more comfortable working that stuff out. Engines are a dark world of mystery to me. :-)

I guess we are opposites then I hate electrical but love working on the guts of an engine. And for me, engine work comes first, before any cosmetic stuff.
If you are going to replace the chain that way, make sure it is the rivet type, not a master link. But, unless your bike has 100,000+ on it I doubt you would need a new chain, just cleaning and rebuilding the adjuster, IMO.
Instructions can be found on Basscliffs site:

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

[psyguy]

Your electrics are going to look very tidy, I can tell...

Camchain... I think you'll find that originally the replacement camchains were indeed a continuous chain but in time it became obvious that the link type isn't a problem - in that they're as reliable (and obviously it's easier to replace the link type chains).

+1 on everything Gearhead said about the camchain.

Best measure the chain stretch before you throw money on it...

[ged]

Hi JimmyR every thing looks great. I just got my tappet depressing tool from Z1 in the States with a bag of Stainless steel screws for the engine. The tools are pretty dear on ebay but I found Z1 to have the cheapest price. I had also been thinking of what Pete said and use the zip tie method but I just didnt like the idea of poking things around in small holes. Knowing my luck it would either get stuck or drop off.
Anyway I am waiting for some spike strips and a seat cover that I will be working on next until I get my ring sorted out.



Regards

GED

[JimmyR]

Well my bike has around 90 000kms on it so I wouldn't be surprised if the chain needs replacing!

Yeah I get the impression that a lot of guys don't like working on electrics. I actually don't mind so much because (a) I am very anal about tidiness, and (b) I taught myself how to make tube guitar amps a few years back. I am a guitarist who loves getting good tones but tube amps are expensive. But you can build 'em yourself these days for not too much $$ because of the interwebs. I've built probably around 20 or so amps now and have enough! That's partly why I have gotten into bike building - I get bored and see too many programmes on tv about building bikes.

So wiring isn't such a big deal. When I first started working out how to wire up the bike I had to forget about the hum created by earth loops - I suspect that bikes aren't quite so fussy... I'm a bit wary about putting ignition wires next to lighting wires though.

[pete]

How much are they , Pete?

Either $9.50 or $9.95 (can't remember now) each plus postage and I typically get them the next day up from Melbourne. The guy has no dramas shipping one or two either.

Just fill out the online quote form and he rings me in the morning... easy!

Jimmy: that's lookin' real good with the battery box and electrics tray there. I made my own tray as well except it's just one flat piece of 2.5mm alu. with everything bolted underneath.

I got a camchain off eBay and it was continuous, but like the other guys said these days I believe it's not necessary. So much easier with a link! Fortunately I rebuilt my engine so there was no dramas there for me...

Also, I'm glad you like working on electrical stuff, I have limited tolerance for it... did some electronics at college and have always done my own in cars like stereos etc. but I always hit a point where I think enough! And have to move on...

[JimmyR]

Just out of curiosity this morning I put the pod filters that I have on the bike. I had taken the airbox off and just wanted to see what the pods would look like. Well WOW. They look so much better on this bike! I probably shouldn't have done this! It really is the look I want. But I also don't want to spend months fine-tuning the carbs just to get the bike to run properly. Sigh.

I have had so many "bike experts" warn me not to run pods. I'll use more gas, get lumpy response, no good for bad weather (like that worries me!). But damn they look good! Really, I wish K+N would make some pods with more restricted airflow so I could get the response of an airbox but the looks of pods! I even emailed them but I suspect they thought I was nuts. Now - how can I measure airflow so that I can mod these pods to act like an airbox? :-)

[pete]

Well... you know my opinion already Same economy as the stock airbox and exhaust for me, had no issues in the rain, and the 2 to 1 brought out some midrange I never had before...

However, fine tuning... yeah I still got some of that to do!

[JimmyR]

Well I think I might just go to the pods, but first to get it registered. The whole engine bay is so much more open and lean with the pods.

Today I did more tidying, tried to bleed the bloody brakes to no avail, that sort of thing. I made some straps out of aluminium to hold the cables inside the battery box. Pics tomorrow!

[pete]

Well I think I might just go to the pods, but first to get it registered. The whole engine bay is so much more open and lean with the pods.

Today I did more tidying, tried to bleed the bloody brakes to no avail, that sort of thing. I made some straps out of aluminium to hold the cables inside the battery box. Pics tomorrow!

Get her running right with the airbox first so you have a nice known solid baseline to start with.

I ended up strapping my lever back to the handle bar overnight because I couldn't get it to bleed properly. When I checked it in the morning, problem solved, no more air in the system.

[JimmyR]

Well fingers crossed on the brakes! (mutter mutter mutter...)

You know when I put the pods on - and I haven't even tightened the clamps - I just thought that's what I want. I'll have to do it. But yes, I will get it running with the airbox first and may experiment with either stuffing the pods with foam or blocking the flow a little somehow. I really don't care about getting tons of power - it's an 1100 so I'm sure it's fine. Again - I'll take some pics tomorrow.

[pete]

Well fingers crossed on the brakes! (mutter mutter mutter...)

You know when I put the pods on - and I haven't even tightened the clamps - I just thought that's what I want. I'll have to do it. But yes, I will get it running with the airbox first and may experiment with either stuffing the pods with foam or blocking the flow a little somehow. I really don't care about getting tons of power - it's an 1100 so I'm sure it's fine. Again - I'll take some pics tomorrow.

Good luck! Hahaha... don't worry, I'm sure you'll get 'em nailed

You know you can always just get a Dynojet kit right? Maybe not the cheapest option but will allow you to use your pods and have a good baseline to work with... they have both stage 1 and 3 depending what modifications you've done.

Hard to come by for my little 450 but I reckon it'll be easier on the 1100 as they should be far more common.

[JimmyR]

Pics - new straps on the battery box:



Here I hope you can see what I'm on about - I love the space around the engine. It's very much the look I am going for. I am looking forward to the day I can lop off the lump at the rear end of the frame.

[john82q]

Well if looks are everything, youre geting there.

The whole hard to tune thing with pods, is owing to CV carbs, so if you really want pods on, and bike that runs well. Then youll have to lash out on some flat slides, or other old fashion carbs.

Or thottle bodys, and a micro squirt,, but some round here would scream heresy!

[pete]

Jimmy, I like the space also... mind you the 450 is a whole different world when it comes to the airbox. There was no way it was going back in... I don't have double jointed fingers or double as a contortionist circus act...

Well if looks are everything, youre geting there.

The whole hard to tune thing with pods, is owing to CV carbs, so if you really want pods on, and bike that runs well. Then youll have to lash out on some flat slides, or other old fashion carbs.

Or thottle bodys, and a micro squirt,, but some round here would scream heresy!

John that would be some tasty stuff indeed, especially on the 1100...

[JimmyR]

Yeah I was thinking about lashing out for some Mikuni RS36 carbs if I go for pods. I'm kinda leaning that way. I'm just not very cluey about carbs. I will need to learn a lot to set them up but hey - I can learn!

Looks are pretty much everything in this build, although I wouldn't make the bike uncomfortable. As it is the bike is very comfy to sit on and I think will be great to ride. All along I have wanted to shed as much stuff on the bike as possible without causing myself hassle. Ie yes I will have indicators, mirrors, etc. But hopefully in as inconspicuous a way as possible. I think I have to make the bike I set out to make rather than water it down.