Rust and Dreams

[BigRock]

Aloha Everyone- I've wanted to do a "get running again" for some time.
I'm glad I found this 82 750T. It's in bad shape and doesn't run. PO said the PO said it had a banging sound. We will find out shortly. I'm calling this rebuild "rust and dreams".
Wish me luck.

[Flyboy]

Welcome to the nut house, pull up a floorboard and make yourself at home.
Basscliff should be around shortly with your mega welcome.
Looks like you have a nice project on your hands there, will be following with interest.

[Hoosier Daddy]

That's my kinda project! Did you get carbs and the exhaust with it?
I have her older sister, an '80 "L" model and believed there were not many differences between the two, but I am already learning from your pics they aren't as close as I thought. Yours has really nice lines... Love the tank. There's lots of potential right there.
I'd pull the spark plus and spray some penetrating oil in there and see if she turns by hand without issues. If so, do a quick check of the wiring, charge the battery and see if it'll crank over before you tear her down. Maybe even pull the valve cover and have a look-see while cranking.
That way you may get an idea of what you are dealing with from the beginning
Keep us updated, I'm getting excited for you over here!

[Hoosier Daddy]

Here ya go, found this...

[7981GS]

I definitely want to see what you can do to this one.
I love the style of that model. Only the effectiveness of the brake system might need improvement.
Better/modern friction materials might do the trick.

Daniel

[Radtad]

I will look forward to your progress. Good luck and welcome to the forum

[BigRock]

Following suggestions

I love the suggestions. Just what I need.
Thanks for the magazine article or wherever that info came from.
I have the Clymer manual and am reading it cover to cover.

It came with carbs and a 4 into 1 exhaust of unknown maker. I'll post picks so I can get some guesses. Came with no battery. I hooked it up to the (non-running) car. The electrical seams to be in decent shape. I have oil pressure light, neutral and brake light. She cranks. Oil pressure light goes out. Sounds like she wants to start but I can hear the clunking sound the PO mentioned. I don't want to do anymore damage so no more cranking till I figure out the clunking sound. I do like to do research before I pick up a wrench.
Suggested by internet sources:
Piston to just past TDC
Stick a wood dowel in spark plug hole
Push down on dowel
No movement good
Any movement bad
Number two piston moves about 1/4 inch. NOT GOOD!!
Conclusion bad bearing in number two.
Let the dismantling begin!
Hey thanks for the great welcome!







Yes, must clean around park plugs-grease,leafs, sand before removing

[BigRock]

A few more photos of what I' m up against.






The next photos should be of the complete breakdown, maybe.
The rust is so bad I almost can't make out the vin.

[Sci85]

Yeah, that one's been sitting for quite come time. That is definitely what I would call a "project". Looking forward to seeing what you can do with her. Now, off to spray another coat :-)

Sci85

[D-Mac]

The worse it is now, the better your triumph when you get it done. At least that's what I'm telling myself.

I'm already enjoying this thread. Please keep us posted.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Petina to the Max!!! You have your work cut out for you, hope you enjoy this kind of thing. I find it very rewarding to take a rusted piece of metal and return it to something shiney and new.
Take a lot of pics on the disassembly, you can refer to them later when it's going back together.

[Normk]

Looks like a fine aquisition!

What is your intended plan? Do you plan to create a concours show piece? Show room new condition? Rider? Custom?

It's always more interesting to follow someone's project if one has the program in hand.

Experience has taught me that it is far easier to deal with a project from the basis of a road test and, while this is not always practical, it can save a lot of grief due to undescovered issues.

That piston movement would seem to preclude running the engine for now but you may wish to consider the possibility that a temporary fix could allow the bike to be "got running" for a road test. Too often, people have done an end-to-end and then found some fundamental issue which was not detected. Maybe unlikely, but only needs to happen to you.

My own GS850 is intended only as a rider and requires the condition to be suitable for collector status. From time to time I see beautifully restored examples of older machines and begin to feel the itch but hope to resist because this would not suit my purpose.

As a general rule it is also usually best, after an assessment, to see how the machine lines up with one's intended outcome to see if they line up from an time and economics stand-point. It is far too easy to invest more of both time and money into a restore than it is worth. Often a restored one can be acquired for less than the cash investment as they are typically money pits.

Too many nice old bikes are lost because someone begins a restoration which is not completed. Too bad as they're not making more of them.

[BigRock]

I can't believe how much I'm enjoying this process. Every piece I remove I make plans for it's return to functionality.
Normk-Return to function is the goal. I don't have the budget or know how for a proper restoration. I don't think I'm that kind of guy. Having it run clean and look clean would be the major goal.
Hoosier daddy- Taking photos and counting on them for the assembly.

[7981GS]

Those two center photo's look a little on the rough side to me.
Best wishes on returning her back to life. Just be meticulous with each segment of your work.
It will live to ride again.

Daniel

[Hoosier Daddy]

If you do not plan on splitting the case halves next, center the pistons mid-stroke and pack as many rags in the cavity below tight as possible to seal out the crud you are cleaning off and protect the pistons from pivoting on the wrist-pin and nicking their skirt on the case.