What I do for that one is to use my 8mm nutdriver with a LONG extension, turn the right grip to give it about half-throttle (with the engine OFF), then reach down at an angle from over the airbox to loosen that locknut. Once the locknut is loose, it's easy enough to make adjustments with the bike running at idle. To tighten the locknut, turn the bike off, give it half-throttle again, reach in from behind and tighten the locknut. Start the bike again to verify that you did not change the adjustment any.
Good idea.
You might want to go back and do them again.
Yeah, I know.....
The book shows a slight "smiley-face" like you have there, but it is done with their "special" tool that uses steel balls and NO MARKINGS. Nobody knows for sure how much the actual difference is in the "half a ball difference", but we are assuming it is only about 1 cm. You are showing a 4 cm difference between #2 and #4.
Also, that "smiley-face" is only for the bikes with a crossover in the exhaust (nobody really knows why). With your header, you should line them up as close to even as you can.
Well, I will do just that then.
Exactly what I found, on both accounts. Did you see the flame go a bit erratic, then go out? That's what I saw.
Yep.
Sounds Great.
Will sound just a little better when you get it synched a bit closer, like I mentioned above.
Might also sound a bit better if you set the idle closer to factory setting. I haven't looked recently, but I seem to remember 1050 +/-50 RPM.
I have not bothered to go back through 10 pages (yeah, my pages are longer than yours ) to see if you have jetted your carbs for your pods and pipes. What jets are you running?
I have a Dyno Jet Stage 3 installed per the DJ directions. I've seen where some people have re-set the needles on the second notch from the top rather than the third. I'll see after I get it on the road for a test.
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