Theres some guys doing this on OSS with Busa pistons, but I couldnt find a decent set for a decent price, and the block would have to have been decked quite a bit due to the lower compression height of the busa pistons
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My 1327 build
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My 1327 build
I ordered a set of 80mm JE pistons from Dynoman and gaskets/seals from BB. Found an 1150 and gsxr 1127 cylinders and had the gsxr sleeves installed in the 1150 block. Cost almost as much as an MTC block, but should run cooler (I hope)
Theres some guys doing this on OSS with Busa pistons, but I couldnt find a decent set for a decent price, and the block would have to have been decked quite a bit due to the lower compression height of the busa pistons
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brslk
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gearhead13
Ordered a set of HD main and cylinder studs as well as head and base gaskets. Oh yeah and a new clutch hub needle bearing.
Had to order a new set of rings from JE due to a mishap with gapping the top ring
Pulled the engine last night, much, MUCH easier to do with the head/cylinders off Put a floor jack under the engine to support it while removing the mount bolts, once all bolts are removed, jack it up further until the oil pan clears the frame rail, and slide it out onto a waiting hand truck.
Spent an hour or so with a toothbrush and rag cleaning all the grime/dirt off. Pulled all the case bolts accesible from the top, and started removing the studs. I could really use a nice long set of 14mm wrenches Some of them are glued in real good.
Measured the clutch hub play at .004, so I plan on having .002 removed from the spacer.
After all the top bolts are removed, I will flip it upside down, remove the oil pan and all the bottom bolts, then split the cases.
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JEEPRUSTY
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gearhead13
Originally posted by JEEPRUSTY View PostDo you have a photobucket account? It or a sit e like it will make managing the photos easier.
A photobucket account is probably a good idea though.
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gearhead13
With the help of an old base gasket and using my trusty Makita 1/4" rotary tool and carbide cutter, opening up the cases for the bigger sleeves
Does anyone think I am building more here than my helical gears can handle?
Is this normal for the outer bearing to be able to moved to the side??
Last edited by Guest; 12-31-2011, 04:35 PM.
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gearhead13
Some pictures of the work done to install oversize valves
Stock valve on the left, 28.5mm Kibblewhite black diamond valve on the right
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mike-s
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KC1908
No problem with that bearing. The outer moves on it. As for helical versus straight cut gears you will get different opinions. If you are running a street tyre on the street then there is no problem with helical gears.
Having said that, they are a bit of insurance for the future if you can afford to put them in.
I have two bikes with similar motors as yours. One is 1327 with GSXR sleeves in the EFE barrel and the other is 1360 with Busa pistons in GSXR sleeves in an EFE barrel. Both of them still have helical cut gears in them. I take them to the drags regularly and the Busa piston one runs high nines, low tens. The other runs low tens. They are both still street bikes.
The 1428 big block I had I put straight cut gears in it as I had an 8 inch slick on it.
I took the risk on leaving helical gears in and don't have a problem doing burnouts and wheelstands etc.
Like I said, good if you can afford them, but if you aren't going to flog the guts out of it not worth it.
My opinion which will differ from others I'm sure.
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mike-s
I was told that helical cut was better as the load was distributed across two or more teeth rather than across individual ones as in a straight cut gearbox. At least that was the theory of what i was told.
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KC1908
Helical tend to drive apart. Can cause a lot of damage doing so. Never had a problem with a street tyre on the road but heard stories about big tyre bikes destroying engines because of them.
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gearhead13
Originally posted by KC1908 View PostNo problem with that bearing. The outer moves on it. As for helical versus straight cut gears you will get different opinions. If you are running a street tyre on the street then there is no problem with helical gears.
Having said that, they are a bit of insurance for the future if you can afford to put them in.
I have two bikes with similar motors as yours. One is 1327 with GSXR sleeves in the EFE barrel and the other is 1360 with Busa pistons in GSXR sleeves in an EFE barrel. Both of them still have helical cut gears in them. I take them to the drags regularly and the Busa piston one runs high nines, low tens. The other runs low tens. They are both still street bikes.
What type gaskets did you use on yours? Did you install HD crankshaft or cylinder studs on them?
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KC1908
One engine (the 1360) I used a stock base gasket and just cut it out and cleaned it with the dremel. I used a copper 80mm gasket and used the dremel on that to make it 81mm.
The 1327 I used an aftermarket paper gasket which I cut bigger for the base gasket. Just used an 80mm head gasket but the composite material.
I use threebond on head gaskets and they never leak.
HD studs on one but not the other. 1327 were only 11-1 pistons and the Hayabusa pistons were probably a bit less.
Both stock cranks
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gearhead13
I got the cases back together and back in the bike, just waiting for gaskets and HD studs. Went in super-easy without the top end on
Ordered some drag bars, Ken Sean bar end mirrors, progressive springs and new grips.
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Dude...I gotta change my sceeen size to 30% just to read and see your posts on one full screen without having to drag all over the place...just sayinMY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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